Sadly today was our last full day here in Denmark, but we saved the best for last. Tivoli Gardens, which opened in August of 1843, is the second oldest amusement park in the world (the oldest is also in Denmark).
Image: Visual Maps
We took the train just two stops to get to Tivoli. While the ticket line looked intimidatingly long, it took less than ten minutes to enter the park.
The chair swings in the background
View from the Balloons
It didn’t take long for someone to discover the balloons and coax her dad into buying a huge Peppa Pig balloon.
Stopping to check out the fountain on the way to the playground
Tivoli has a large play area designed for 2-10 year olds. There are small rides but also rope bridges, climbing structures and seesaws.
We stopped to watch a small play that just so happened to be starting as we walked by. Although it was all in Danish, #1Toddler laughed at all the jokes.
After the play, we made a B-line for the carousel. Amir wanted to ride a giraffe, but someone else selected the spinning teacup instead.
After teacups, we stopped for lunch at the shawarma shack. Recharged, we headed for the rocket ride.
There’s a ride that reminded me of It’s a Small World at DisneyWorld – except this one features all of the creatures and characters from the Hans Christian Anderson fables.
A few scenes from the “Small World” rideSadly we didn’t win mega chocolate roulette
After a few rides, we headed to the main garden to enjoy the flowers. Unfortunately we weren’t able to stay past dark with the park illuminated.
There are many shops, but only one official Tivoli Gardens shop. I’d been on the hunt for a Christmas Ornament and finally found one at the last shop of the day.
Making friends with “big duck”
I just finished packing up for tomorrow’s long journey home. Our cab comes at 5am, so I’d better get to bed to set us up for successful travel with minimum meltdown tomorrow.
It’s been an incredible trip, and I can’t say enough lovely things about Jeff, Nadja and their families. Thank you both again for such a special invitation.
The wedding day finally arrived. We took a taxi from our hotel to the church for the ceremony. Most things are walkable in Copenhagen, but this church was 30 minutes by foot even in comfortable shoes, plus it was sprinkling.
Filips Kirke Church, Copenhagen
Just as in the US, it’s customary to arrive 15-30 minutes before the start of the ceremony.
Playing with the plastic animalsJeff & Amir
The ceremony was conducted entirely in Danish. I had to escape out the back door about three minutes in after #1Toddler started fussing and shouting “No! No! No!” I heard a few guests quip that she was objecting to the marriage, so I figured that was our cue.
There was a break between the ceremony and a canal boat ride that lead up to the cocktail hour. Given the weather and the fact that someone needed a nap to achieve the important act of staying awake until the dance floor, we opted to skip the canal boat and take a family ciesta to recharge.
Ciesta time before the reception and dancing
The cocktail hours started at 5pm, and we arrived at 5:30. The venue is located at Langelinie Pavillion near Kastellet, with 180 degree views of the water.
The bride and groom took photos by the sea port
Nadja gave me a heads up on a few of the unique Danish wedding traditions. For starters, the dinner is five hours NOT including dancing. The Danish are famous for giving speeches. All guests are invited to toast the bride and/or groom. Sentimental or a roast, anything goes. But the speeches are formal and preplanned. Those wishing to speak must sign up with “the Toastmaster” ahead of time to be added to the schedule of speakers.
One of the quizzes asked attendees to raise a flag, US or Danish, to vote for whoever a given clue was true for. Someone enjoyed waving the flags indiscriminately.
After the promised five hours of toasts (which sped by) and a delicious steak dinner with pickled celery root and herb potatoes, the dancing began.
The main courseMaking news friendsOddities of the gift tableThe silver accent stones are actually chocolate
The cocktail hour space which later became the dance floor
We had a goal of making it to the dancing which we were told would start around midnight. To our amazement, no one on our team needed a nap, and everyone powered through and made it to the dance floor to let loose.
At 1am we called it a night. We left impressed by the attention to personal detail displayed in every aspect of the wedding – the sentimental speeches that helped us get to know both Jeff and Nadja better, the thoughtful icebreakers and translations back and forth between English and Danish, and the exquisite food. Amir and I both decided we will RSVP yes to any Danish wedding invites from here on out.
Day 7
To say we were moving slowly this morning is an understatement. Coming up on noon, #1Toddler began to get antsy and request to go to “da park, da park!” So she and I headed out on a solo walk in search of the famous trampoline sidewalks.
She of course fell asleep in the stroller just five minutes into the walk, so I took the opportunity to stop for an Aperol Spritz and cheese plate while she slept.
Enjoying my orange
She awoke just as I was paying the bill and packing up to move us to our next destination. She didn’t miss the ice cream sign on the way out.
Decisions, decisions Copenhagen Harbour
We walked just three blocks past Copenhagen Bicycles where we rented our family bicycle on Day 5 of our trip and found the Trampoline Sidewalk. Friends on one of my online mom boards recommended this one for kids.
Still working on jumping with two feet at the same time
After the trampoline sidewalk, we headed back to the hotel to reconnect with Amir who was resting and tackling a migraine.
Danish architecture focuses heavily on clean linesThe National Workshop for Arts is seen across the harbourAmaliehaven FountainGefion Fountain featuring the Norse Goddess of the same name
St. Alban’s Church, 1887
The only other must-do item on the list for today was watching the Women’s World Cup Final between the USA and the Netherlands. We figured being in Europe where futbol is king, we’d have no trouble finding a spot to watch the game. To our surprise, we walked two miles and stopped by 8 pubs before finding our viewing home at the Happy Pig. In fairness, The Dubliner Irish Pub did have the game on, but it was standing room only and not toddler friendly.
USA! USA!
On a random side note, Amir and I couldn’t help but notice the hundreds of discarded nitrous oxide cartridges that litter the streets in some hot spots of the city. In doing a little Googling, it seems whippets are the favorite drug of the young crowds here in Copenhagen.
In some areas discarded silver N2O cartridges are more numerous than cigarette butts
After the glorious futbol victory, we made our way to Sticks & Sushi, a favorite restaurant of Jeff & Nadja, and also the place where we cancelled our reservation after an exhausting day on the bike and too much soft serve. I’m so glad we circled back and made it there. Commence the food porn.
Spicy miso soup with salmon, seaweed and tofuKids “sticks box” with chicken meatballs, white rice, edamame, carrots and peanut sauceShrimp tempura
Sister sushi boxLemon sorbet, white chocolate creme with raspberry glaze, coconut rice pudding with passion fruit compote and a pistachio chocolate torte
Everything we ordered was unforgettable. We both agreed we’ve paid twice as much for meals we’ve liked half as much, and for sushi, the pricing was very fair given the quality.
The last two nights have brought the best meals yet. I can’t wait to see what we can eat tomorrow.
Amir, Jeff & Nadja
$3 IKEA cups FTW again, this time during the speechesWe may have snuck in a raspberry popsicleDowntime in the hotel room
The one thing I had earmarked as a must-do during my research for the trip was to rent a bicycle to help us explore the lesser traveled paths here.
At Kings Garden with our Premium Family Bike
There are two big bike rental companies with friendly websites that allow online reservations and booking prior to arrival. Depending when you plan on visiting, they may or may not all be booked. We rented through Copenhagen Bicycles, but Christiania Bicycles is also supposed to be good. Plus they offer electric versions. They also both offer free helmets for kids.
#1Toddler enjoyed ringing the bell on our bike
First we headed in search of food. Amir had scoped out a unique place called Reffen, which can best be described as an artist’s baby: shipping container construction project meets food truck rodeo with a pinch of farmer’s market and street art. I unfortunately didn’t capture it well in photos today as I was chasing around you know who. Amir and I decided we need this in Richmond.
One of many mini wine bars at Reffen
The Italian stall at Reffen
Fresh whole mackerel cleaned and grilled right in front of you
Amir ordered freshly grilled mackerel, I had a fresh Italian baguette with prosciutto, mozzarella and pesto, and the little one ate a gourmet corn dog.
The whole area by the water has embraced the shipping container movement
After Reffen we (and by we I mean Amir) pedaled to Freetown Christiania – an “off the grid” sort of town with artists, few laws, a good amount of drugs and some beautiful scenery. The only downside – you can’t take pictures there.
The ride from Christiania back to Town is full of quiet moments
After Christiania, we made our way from the waterside inland towards the King’s Garden where the 2019 Jazz Festival is taking place while we are here. We stopped by the playground first. Side note: #1Toddler didn’t even want to wear her helmet at first, but then she insisted on wearing it all day.
After the playground, we made our way to the rose gardens of Rosenborg Castle. There’s a moat around the castle as with most important structures here in Copenhagen, but this one features friendly fish and ducks.
For our last hour in the garden, we decided to take it easy and just relax in the grass and enjoy the airy new age jazz playing all around us.
As we headed back to return our rented bicycle, I tried to snap a few photos and a video to capture the ride. For some reason today my photo skills weren’t on par with my norm – but that didn’t spoil the fun.
Total route biked: 6.2 miles!
Still smiling even after all that hard work
After returning our bike, we stopped in Nyhavn at Vaffelbageren for soft serve ice cream. Oh my oh my was it delicious. We ended up eating it all and canceling our dinner reservations.
Instead, we opted for a charcuterie dinner with red wine in the roof top terrace of our hotel. Total cost: $30.
Tonight we are going to rest up for the big wedding tomorrow. Nadja told me dancing won’t even begin until midnight, so I need all the energy I can get!
Today we took the train to Billund, Denmark, the home of THE Legoland. It requires a bit of finagling to get to from Copenhagen – 2 or 3 train connections plus a short stint on a bus. Amir thankfully is a great navigator on all our trips. He can look at a route ahead of time (when internet is accessible) and navigate across an entire country from just Google Maps screenshots.
We dedicated today to travel with the goal of getting to Billund with time to check in to our hotel, grab some dinner at MINI CHEF, and unwind for a big day tomorrow.
LEGO House, Billund, DenmarkHostess Stand at MINI CHEF
Jeff told us about MINI CHEF last night. Here’s how it works:
1. Pick one block of each color to build your meal. Kids get an extra special surprise yellow block.
The “menu” at MINI CHEFThe meal options
2. Stack your blocks in the tray and load it into the computer to create your meal.
3. The computer detects your creation and little LEGO chefs build your meal.
4. A few minutes later, it appears on a conveyor belt where two friendly robots then deliver it to you.
5. Bring your meal back to your table and enjoy!
Don’t fret – they have adult beverages as well.
The whole dining area has activities for the kids within reach. Books, little LEGOs, big LEGOs, there’s lots to keep the kids busy while dinner is prepared.
MINI CHEF is located inside LEGO House, which features a coffee shop, LEGO store and six zones of fun inside the main portion of LEGO House. You don’t need to buy a ticket to LEGO House to be able to eat at MINI CHEF or the cafe.
Making a mess is encouraged
LEGO friends in the lobby
There’s a small LEGO store located inside LEGO House. All the favorites are available there including StarWars, LEGO Movie, Harry Potter and more.
Tomorrow morning we’ll walk a short distance from our hotel, Hotel Svanen, to Legoland to spend the day.
We went to bed last night at 9pm exhausted and with #1Toddler just having napped half the day. Needless to say we weren’t expecting much, if any, sleep.
We awoke at 11am, (yup, you read that right) despite the sun peering into our room since 4am. 14 hours of blissful sleep on hotel sheets. Our toddler parent dreams come true.
As mentioned yesterday, we packed a tad too lightly for the cool weather, so the goal today was shopping, then hot dogs and if energy – culture and World Cup. We accomplished all of the above with a little help from H&M, a friendly street vendor and Jeff & Nadja, our hosts.
On our way to the shopping district, we passed through Nyhavn, a pedestrian friendly street lined with cafes, musicians and people pausing to converse and enjoy the water. You can take a canal tour if you prefer the view from the water.
You can never go wrong with a train setBuilding tableA pretty serious “play” fire station
We always look out for toy stores along our walk. They provide a needed break from the bustle of pedestrians, cars and bikes (omg the bikes) of the city scene.
Biking is the preferred mode of transportation“Park n Ride” equivalent outside the metro station. These are commuter bikes, not rentals.
We were lucky enough to catch up with Jeff & Nadja after a quick stop at the National Museum. It houses a Children’s Museum within as well as a fantastic exhibit on the Mongolian Empire. #1Toddler’s take on the museum: “Too much scary.” (Lots of skeletons and masks on display).
Unfortunately we got there just an hour before closing and didn’t get to see all it had to offer. It’s conveniently located right next to Ørsteds Park which has multiple swings, slides and a sandbox perfect for antsy toddlers.
Ørsteds Park
After H&M, we enjoyed our obligatory street food adventure with a local hotdog.
#1Toddler approved.
I ordered mine with mustard, crunchy onions and special sauce.
We met Jeff & Nadja at a local food market called Torvehallerne. We ordered duck sandwiches x 4 paired with local, unfiltered brown ale drafts.
After dinner we walked to a pub that Jeff was fairly sure would be airing the Women’s World Cup match. USA vs England is a house divided for us and a match not to be missed under any circumstances.
Two pitchers of Carlsberg, one order of very bad nachos and a victory for the good old USA, and we called it a night. Tomorrow we head to THE Legoland.
Backing the engine into the fire station after a call
There’s a moat around the castle as with most important structures here in Copenhagen, but this one features friendly fish and ducks. 
Unfortunately we got there just an hour before closing and didn’t get to see all it had to offer. It’s conveniently located right next to Ørsteds Park which has multiple swings, slides and a sandbox perfect for antsy toddlers.
TeamLouka 