Family & Friends, Food & Drink, Travel Adventures

España Day 9: Peñautol

One of the things that has fascinated me most about this trip is where we’re staying. Yesterday we arrived at Lidia’s family’s beach house in Peñíscolas, and it’s unlike any vacation community I’ve ever seen.

Neighbors in Peñautol who live here year round

More than 50 years ago, Lidia’s grandparents joined with several other families from Autol to dream up something special. Together, they pooled their money, designed the community, and helped build what they call Peñautol (Peñíscola + Autol). The result was ten modest beach homes, or casillas, tucked behind a gate and centered around a shared swimming pool.

Originally, every one of the ten homes belonged to families from Autol. Over the years, a few have changed hands, and today about half are still owned by those original Autol families. Even so, the sense of history and connection remains. These aren’t just vacation homes—they’re places where generations of the same families have spent their summers together, watching children become parents and now grandparents.

I can’t help but admire the vision it took. In an era long before crowdfunding or master-planned communities, a group of friends from a small Spanish town came together to create something that would bring their families joy for decades. Standing here today, more than 50 years later, with our own children splashing in the same shared pool, it’s clear they succeeded.

Castilla de Peñíscola

This morning we packed up our beach gear and made our way to the beach in Peñíscola. On the way, we stopped at a little shop to pick up a few essentials: inflatable rafts for the kids, some sand toys, and anything else that looked like it might make for a fun day by the sea.

Our first priority after arriving was securing a few lounge chairs under an umbrella. Once we had claimed our little patch of shade, the kids wasted no time racing toward the Mediterranean. While Amir wrestled with his inflatable, I proudly managed to get mine blown up first—a small but satisfying victory!

Me, Raquel y Lidia

The day settled into the perfect beach rhythm: jumping waves, building in the sand, floating in the warm water, and simply soaking in the atmosphere. What makes this beach truly unforgettable, though, is the backdrop. Rising dramatically from the rocky peninsula is the magnificent castle of Peñíscola, its ancient stone walls towering above the sea. It’s hard to imagine a more beautiful setting for a day at the beach.

The beach itself is undeniably crowded—and this wasn’t even a weekend. Brightly colored umbrellas covered nearly every inch of sand, and once you were in the water you had to keep an eye out to avoid drifting into someone else’s float or body surfing into another family. Yet somehow it never felt overwhelming. There was an infectious energy to it all. The laughter, conversations in a dozen languages, children chasing waves, and the constant movement made the beach feel vibrant and alive.

One of the highlights of the day was renting a paddle boat with a built-in waterslide. Climbing up and launching ourselves into the sea brought out everyone’s inner child. Unfortunately, I left my waterproof phone case behind, so I don’t have any photos of us flying down the slide. Sometimes the best memories are the ones you simply have to experience.

Paddle boat rental at Peñíscola Beach

As we paddled around, I couldn’t help but wonder if something like this would be a hit back home at the Greater Richmond Sailing Association. I asked Amir whether a paddle boat without a sail would even be allowed on the water there. He wasn’t sure, but agreed that if the club members saw how much fun everyone was having, they might be willing to make an exception. It may be a far-fetched idea—but I have a feeling it would be a popular one!

After a full morning at the beach, everyone was ready for lunch. We picked up a takeout paella from a small local spot that, somewhat surprisingly, is also known for making excellent pizza. It felt wonderfully unpretentious—here was one of Spain’s most iconic dishes being served from a casual neighborhood takeaway.

Back at the house, we gathered around the outdoor table to enjoy our feast. As seems to be the custom here, neighbors wandered over with an open invitation to join us. There was no need for formal plans or elaborate invitations—just good food, good conversation, and whoever happened to be nearby. It’s a refreshing way to live.

After lunch, the kids wasted no time jumping back into the pool while the adults lingered over conversation in the shade. Eventually, though, the Mediterranean heat caught up with all of us. At 5:15, the house grew quiet as everyone retreated to their bedrooms for a proper siesta. At first, the late-afternoon nap seemed like an unusual tradition to me, but after spending a few days here, I’m beginning to understand why it’s endured for generations.

Tonight we’re looking forward to something completely different: dinner inside the castle walls of Peñíscola. After spending the day admiring the fortress from the beach, we’ll finally get the chance to climb up into the old city and experience it from within. It feels like the perfect way to end another unforgettable day on Spain’s Mediterranean coast.

~Steph

Family & Friends, Travel Adventures

España Day 8: Autol a Peñíscola

As we continued our drive through the Rioja countryside, one detail kept catching my eye. Scattered among the vineyards and grain fields were lonely rectangular stone buildings, many with their roofs partially collapsed and wild grasses growing through the doorways. At first I wondered if they had once been homes, but they were actually small agricultural field houses.

Years ago, when farming was done almost entirely by hand, these simple structures were an essential part of daily life. Farmers stored tools, sheltered from the scorching summer sun or an unexpected storm, shared a midday meal, and sometimes kept a donkey or other working animals inside. Before trucks and modern machinery, it made sense to have a small building waiting out in the fields where the work was.

Today, many stand empty, their wooden roofs long since giving way while the thick stone walls continue to endure. Rather than eyesores, they feel like quiet monuments to generations of families who worked this land before tractors, irrigation systems, and modern wineries transformed agriculture. There was something beautiful about seeing them scattered across the landscape—silent reminders that every vineyard has a history, and that the Rioja of today was built on centuries of hard work by the people who came before.

When we arrived at the house in Peñautol, the kids wasted no time—they spotted the swimming pool and were in the water almost immediately. After a long day of traveling, it was the perfect way to burn off some energy and cool down.

Their second favorite discovery, however, was something completely unexpected: the bidet. None of them had ever seen one before, and once they figured out what it did, they were absolutely fascinated. The gentle spray of cool water had them dissolving into fits of laughter, convinced it was the funniest invention they’d ever encountered. It’s funny how the little everyday things we take for granted can become the most memorable moments when you’re traveling with kids.

Tomorrow we’ll explore Peñíscola and spend more time at a slow pace.

~Steph

Travel Adventures, Family & Friends

Day 7: Dinosaurs, Zip Lines, and Flip-Flops

Today we ventured farther west from Autol, driving about 45 minutes through the beautiful countryside of La Rioja to Barranco Perdido, a one-of-a-kind dinosaur adventure park. The drive alone was worth the trip, winding through vineyards, rocky cliffs, and rolling hills that somehow become more beautiful around every bend.

This region of Spain is famous for its incredible concentration of dinosaur fossils. Millions of years ago, the landscape was a muddy, wet environment rather than the dry, rocky terrain it is today. Those muddy conditions perfectly preserved the footprints of dinosaurs that once wandered here, along with seashells and countless other fossils from an ancient world. It’s amazing to think that a place now surrounded by vineyards was once home to dinosaurs.

El Barranco Perdido offers an interesting mix of activities. Visitors can purchase a day pass that includes several swimming pools with water slides, plus a choice between a paleontology experience or an aerial adventure park with climbing platforms, bridges, and zip lines.

Unfortunately, we arrived a little later than planned, so we had to choose carefully how to spend our afternoon. We asked the kids whether they wanted the educational paleontology experience or the adventure park.

Adventure park won by a landslide.

We started at the swimming pools, which turned out to be the perfect way to escape the afternoon heat. The water was cool and refreshing, the pools were surprisingly uncrowded, and everyone had room to spread out. Amir and I couldn’t resist racing down the water slides before retreating to lounge chairs while the kids happily swam for hours.

One feature that really impressed me was how thoughtfully the park was designed for families. They know that adults actually want to enjoy the ropes course too, so they offer a supervised mini adventure camp for younger children who aren’t quite tall enough for the larger course.

Our youngest couldn’t have cared less that she didn’t speak the same language as the other children. Within seconds she was happily climbing a miniature rock wall, digging for dinosaurs in a giant sandbox, decorating a dinosaur mask, and participating in an all-out water blaster battle. She barely even waved goodbye before disappearing into the fun.

That left the four of us free to tackle the aerial adventure course.

#1BigSister on the zip line

After a quick lesson on harnesses, carabiners, and safety procedures, the staff took one look at my completely inappropriate footwear—gold leather flip-flops—and my crossbody purse.

Apparently neither was a deal breaker.

“Just sign here.”

It felt like they had learned a little something from the American legal system. Sign the waiver, acknowledge every possible risk, and off you go.

To my surprise, I wasn’t nearly as terrible at the course as I expected. Amir and our oldest had done something similar before, but this was my first experience navigating ropes, swinging bridges, and elevated platforms. I figured out the carabiner system quickly and managed to clip and unclip my safety lines without incident. Despite the flip-flops, I never slipped, fell, or found myself dangling helplessly in front of my family.

I decided not to push my luck by climbing the vertical rock wall that led to the zip-line tower. Some risks simply aren’t worth taking while wearing vacation sandals.

The giant carpet slide at the top of the mountain

I did, however, brave the giant enclosed carpet slide. The climb to the top rewarded us with spectacular views across the surrounding valley, and the ride back down was every bit as fun as the kids promised it would be.

By the time we finished, everyone was happily exhausted.

View from atop the entrance to the slide

On the drive back to Autol, we stopped by Doner Kebab for an easy takeaway dinner before returning to the house. We ate outside overlooking the pool, enjoyed one last evening swim, packed our suitcases, and said goodbye to Daniel, Lidia’s boyfriend, who had welcomed us so warmly during our stay.

Tomorrow we leave La Rioja behind and head east toward Peñíscola for the next chapter of our Spanish adventure. While we’re excited to see somewhere new, it’s hard to believe our time in Autol is already coming to an end. This little town—and especially Lidia’s wonderful family—has given us a glimpse of Spain that few tourists ever get to experience, and it’s something we’ll never forget.

~Steph

Travel Adventures, Family & Friends, Food & Drink

Day 6 – Learning to Slow Down

One of the things I’ve loved most about our time in Autol is that every day has introduced us to another tradition that has quietly shaped life here for generations. Today, that tradition was mushrooms.

This morning, a friend of Lidia’s family welcomed us to his mushroom farm for an intimate tour. Like Lidia’s dad, he specializes in growing portobello mushrooms, while many other local farmers cultivate several different varieties. Walking through the cool, earthy growing rooms was fascinating. There is so much more science, patience, and craftsmanship behind mushroom farming than I ever realized.

Mushrooms for miles

He explained how the industry has changed over the past couple of decades. Twenty years ago, mushroom farming was a boutique business, with customers willing to pay a premium for high-quality, locally grown mushrooms. As Spain has faced more difficult economic times, demand has softened and margins have become much tighter. It would be easy to cut corners in pursuit of lower costs, but that’s not the path many of these family farmers have chosen.

Like so many traditions we’ve seen here in La Rioja, they continue to do things the way they’ve always believed they should be done—using organic, environmentally friendly practices and refusing to sacrifice quality simply to make a little more money. There was something deeply admirable about that quiet commitment to craftsmanship over convenience.

After our tour, we headed to Lidia’s family’s casilla, a countryside retreat much like the one where we’re staying. These little houses aren’t extravagant, but that’s precisely the point. They exist as places to gather—to cook, to eat, to swim, to share a bottle of wine, and to spend unhurried hours with family and friends. It’s a lifestyle centered around people rather than schedules.

The kids immediately claimed the pool, splashing and laughing while the adults settled into long conversations around the outdoor table. We sampled both red and white Rioja wines, along with a regional liqueur unique to this area. The kids, meanwhile, were perfectly content with ice cream cones in hand and another afternoon in the water.

Los cocineros

Back at our house that evening, Amir and Lidia transformed the mushrooms we had picked just hours earlier into dinner. Fresh portobello mushrooms sautéed simply, crusty bread from the neighborhood supermarket, fresh blueberries, and good company made for one of the most satisfying meals of the trip. Nothing was fancy, yet everything tasted exceptional because it was fresh, local, and shared together.

It wasn’t a day packed with famous landmarks or busy sightseeing. There were no long drives or crowded attractions. Instead, today reminded me that some of the richest travel experiences come from simply living alongside the people who call a place home.

It was slow. It was simple. And, perhaps because of that, it was exactly the day I didn’t know I needed.

~Steph

Family & Friends, Food & Drink, Travel Adventures

España Day 5 – Part Two: ¡Campeones! ⚽️🏆🇪🇸

¡Olé, olé, olé, olé!

I can still hear it echoing up the hillside as I write this. It’s after one in the morning, we’re finally back at the house, and the celebration in Autol is showing no signs of slowing down. Firecrackers explode every few minutes, car horns blare in celebration, and from somewhere down in the village comes another chorus of “¡Olé, olé, olé, olé!” The entire town is absolutely electric.

We joined what felt like the whole village in the plaza to watch the World Cup Final on a giant outdoor screen. The younger crowd claimed the center of the square, carrying chairs out into neat rows facing the television. The older generation—and those of us who have apparently graduated into that category—settled around the perimeter at café tables, sharing food, drinks, conversation, and the perfect warm summer evening while keeping one eye on the match.

Spain was magnificent.

Still, I couldn’t shake that familiar anxiety that comes with soccer. They controlled possession, created chance after chance, and looked like the better team for most of the match. But soccer has a cruel way of punishing dominance. One counterattack. One defensive mistake. One lucky bounce. After watching Spain dictate the pace for so long, I kept waiting for Argentina to steal a goal out of nowhere and turn the entire game upside down.

Thankfully, that moment never came.

Spain stayed disciplined, kept Argentina at bay, and when the final overtime whistle blew, the plaza erupted. Complete strangers were hugging, flags appeared from every direction, people were dancing in the streets, and the cheers seemed to roll through the valley. It was one of those unforgettable moments where you realize you’re witnessing something much bigger than a sporting event. We weren’t just watching Spain win a championship—we were watching an entire country celebrate together.

The kids were completely captivated from start to finish. Then halftime brought an unexpected surprise. The mayor invited every child under the age of ten onto the stage for a raffle. Naturally, #1BigSister somehow managed to draw the winning ticket. She walked away carrying an enormous plastic cone overflowing with chips, candy, and every imaginable snack. Some people simply have that kind of luck. If there’s a prize to be won—even when the odds are entirely random—it somehow finds its way into her hands.

Now we’re trying to convince three very excited children that it’s bedtime, which feels like an impossible task when the whole country is celebrating outside their windows. Sleep can wait, at least in their minds.

Tonight, Autol isn’t just a small village in La Rioja. It’s the center of a nationwide celebration, and we’re incredibly grateful that, for one unforgettable evening, we got to be part of it.

~Steph

Superestrella