Day 3: Road Trip to Autol “¿Ya llegamos?”

Today we traded the energy of Barcelona for the open road. We slowly packed up our Airbnb, still mourning England’s loss, and somehow fit six people and what felt like half our possessions into a rented Mercedes V-Class van, and pointed ourselves four hours west toward Autol, the hometown of our au pair, Lidia.

Traveling as a family of six has taught us one thing: a normal rental car simply isn’t an option. Between three kids, six suitcases, backpacks, snacks, and all the miscellaneous things that seem to multiply every day, the Mercedes van isn’t a luxury—it’s a necessity. It feels enormous until every seat is occupied and every inch of cargo space is full.

Lidia’s family has been counting down the hours for our arrival. Our phones have been buzzing with excited messages all day: ”¿Dónde estáis?” (“Where are you?”) and ”¡Os esperamos!” (“We’re waiting for you!”). Their excitement has made the drive feel like we’re not just visiting another town—we’re being welcomed home.

The soundtrack for today’s journey has been equal parts Benito Kamelas and Apple’s Spain Top 100 playlist. Somewhere between rock anthems and Spanish pop hits, the scenery rolled by in shades of gold, green, and dusty hills.

Waiting for our giant van

Of course, no family road trip is complete without the universal question that transcends every language on Earth.

“Are we there yet?”

Every ten minutes.

Seriously—why do children everywhere, regardless of nationality, seem to receive this programming at birth?

About halfway through the drive we stopped at one of Spain’s roadside service areas. Calling it a “rest stop” almost feels unfair. These aren’t rows of fast-food chains and vending machines. They’re more like casual cafés serving real food, just quickly.

Lunch was simple and delicious: jamón y brie on fresh French baguettes, crispy croquetas de jamón y queso that the woman at the register happily popped into the oven for us, and wonderfully hot café con leche to keep the adults going. Fresh bread, good coffee, warm croquetas—it was exactly what a road trip should taste like.

We didn’t need fuel just yet, though the van’s diesel tank will eventually remind us that our adventure is only beginning.

For now, we’re back on the highway, music playing, kids asking if we’re there yet, and a family in Autol waiting with open arms.

Sometimes the best part of travel isn’t the famous destination. Sometimes it’s the road between two places, good coffee in hand, Spanish music on the speakers, and knowing that somewhere ahead, people are genuinely excited to see you.

Hasta pronto, Autol. We’re almost there… I think.

~Steph

Day 2: La Segrada Família and Parque Güell

I’ve been to Barcelona only once before. It was 1994, and I was 15 years old, traveling with my parents for Spring Break of my sophomore year of high school.

Back then I didn’t get to determine the destinations – I was just happy to go anywhere beyond Virginia. A little disclaimer up front though – my memories of that family trip are a bit limited, because something tragic happened while we were gone that ended up overwriting most of what I’d imprinted. One of my closest friends at that time, Matt Fidler, was killed along with his friend Ryan Smith, while cave diving in the Bahamas. I deal with death daily now as an adult, and especially as an Emergency Physician, but he was the first true friend I’d lost. It had happened the first few days of that Spring Break, but I learned of it after the rest of our friend group as my family was unreachable abroad.

That said, I have three distinct memories from that trip to Barcelona. 1) Parque Güell, with its winding mosaic walls, 2) La Segrada Familia, which was only 25% complete then, but the most mind-blowing thing I’d seen in my life to that point, and 3) more of a feeling than a place, the mood of Barcelona, coming off a high after hosting the 1992 Summer Olympics. The police officers still wore their distinctive white gloves with the Olympic logo embroidered, but their faces and the whole mood of the city was one of emotional comedown, post-Olympic blues.

Today, at 70% completion

We took two cabs from our AirBnB to La Segrada Familia. We learned the hard way to get tickets more than a month in advance, otherwise you can expect to pay a premium. If you are going during the sweltering summer like us, pack your bottled water and be prepared for crowds.

As we rounded the corner and caught our first glimpse of this UNESCO site, the exterior texture was what floored me. Unwrapped colorful candies affixed to a drip sand castle. Colorful beads dotting the spires atop towers that reach for the sky. You have to crane your neck and squint to see them in the distance above.

Tickets to ride the elevator up the spires are extra. We opted to stick with the ground-level interior experience. #1BigSister noted the deliberate use of warm and cool colors on opposing sides of the church, and the specific absence of purple. Perhaps Gaudí drawing a clear line. I vaguely remembered something about the abrupt death of Antoni Gaudí, that he’d been hit by a car – a tram to be precise thanks to ChatGPT correcting my memory.

Gaudí began construction of his masterpiece in 1882. It was plagued with difficulties throughout the entire course of construction, even today, which is why it’s taken 144 years (and counting) to build it. Barcelona elites found Gaudí’s style to be tacky and excessive, gaudy even (no relation though, as this word dates to 16th century old English).

I wish we had more time here to explore Gaudí’s works. I’m adding an off season trip (less crowds, less heat) to my return travel list.

He’s leveled up to Meta glasses and an iPhone

From La Segrada Familia, we split up into two cabs again, this time bound for Parque Güell. Roughly 1.5 miles apart, in this heat we weren’t going to be able to walk it.

The park is known for its winding pathways and mosaic walls. There are gardens and musicians, newlyweds and large tours with families. The people echo the tapestry of the art itself.

We taxied to an open air food market, Mercat de Santa Caterina, and caught it just as the stalls were closing. Starving, we lucked out and got an easy table for 6 at Cafe Bar L’Univers. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves. We loved everything we ordered.

Stuffed, we slowly walked home, knowing we had a siesta ahead of us, allowing us to recharge before the England vs Argentina match.

~Steph

Day 1: ¿Fiesta en España? Count us in!

Marriage and parenthood are hard. Achievements big and small deserve celebrating. It’s no secret we love travel and we love a great party – so when Lidia’s parents invited us to come celebrate their 25th Wedding Anniversary in Spain, we replied “¡Si si por su puesto!”

For most trips we take, the flights (and credit card reward points) dictate our actual itinerary. For this adventure to Spain, it made the most sense to fly Dulles —>Munich—>Barcelona and spend a few days in Barcelona ahead of the family event in Autol, Lidia’s village.

We’re arriving three hours ahead of the Spain vs France World Cup Quarter Final game. For weeks we’ve known this perfect alignment could happen – being in a country that lives and breathes fútbol and experiencing watching that game with the food, drinks and energy of those people. We couldn’t have planned it better, save for going to the actual game itself. (I looked up those ticket prices a few days ago out of curiosity – $2700-$6800 each for those wondering).

Studying even though it’s Summer

Earlier this summer with World Cup approaching, I made an impulse buy at the Walgreens next to the New Kent ER. A FIFA booklet and collectible sticker featuring each team and individual player. Little did I know this would come to attract everyone’s interest and define our summer. #1BigBrother is refining his reading skills, and #1LittleSister (4 years) letting “Uzbekistan” roll right off the tongue.

Not nearly complete but still working on it

We landed in Barcelona, quickly exiting the terminal thanks to connecting in Munich and not needing a complicated customs exit. Our bags took 20-30 minutes to materialize on the carousel, but I had reassurance they’d made the journey with us thanks to an AirTag I slid in to my roller bag pocket.

Staying here two nights

We unlocked our AirBnB, dropped our bags, each took 2 minute showers and set off to find a suitable place to watch the game. We walked for 30+ minutes, passing by a French fry-only establishment that looked a little dull, and soon learned beggars couldn’t be choosers. Every bar was spilling out the door with fútbol fanatics. We quickly realized anywhere we could see a screen would need to do.

Spoiler alert: SPAIN Won! And even as I type out this post, the streets of Barcelona are brimming with the energy of victory. Horns honking, mates shouting, firecrackers. Now we have to change our Sunday plans to accommodate the Finals. Who would have thunk it.

~Steph

Costa Rica Day 8: The Journey Home

Two of the three kids awoke at 3:30AM in tears from Swimmer’s Ear. Considering how much time they spent in the pool, it’s not at all surprising. We checked out of our AirBnB before heading to the pharmacy for cipro drops and breakfast at Mono Congo Cafe. By check out, I mean we just left the place unlocked with the keys on the table. They are very light on rules here. Pura Vida.

We took the Sansa puddle jumper back from Quepos to San Jose without much fanfare. The weather was clearer this go around, letting my nerve relax a bit.

Kids Zone at San Jose Airport

We have a direct flight back to Dulles, then the (hopefully) 2 hour drive back to Richmond.

Pros of Costa Rica:

  • Easy to get to from East Coast
  • Food (fresh fruit, simple ingredients) is appealing to all ages
  • Water everywhere – with endless opportunities for swimming, #1LittleSister officially know how to swim
  • Housing/lodging is very affordable
  • Friendly people everywhere
  • Nearly everyone speaks English in addition to Spanish

In general we tend to not repeat trips (Florence and London are exceptions as we had family both places). But I could see us coming back here for sure.

Thankfully tomorrow is Sunday, and no one has to work or be anywhere. I’ll hide the Easter baskets in the morning, and we’ll hunt for eggs in the yard just like last year.

Thanks for following along with me. Pura Vida.

~Steph

The Louka Family

Costa Rica Day 7: Horseback riding on the beach & a visit to Alturas Wildlife Sanctuary

Somehow I woke up and this is the last full day of our trip. I feel like I was just telling #1BigBrother not to worry, that we had plenty of time left. Se la vie.

#1BigSister in El Ratón

There were just three people in our group for the 8:30am ride with Rancho La Merced in Uvita. The other person was a French woman in her 70s who spoke no English or Spanish. If she wanted a quiet, serene outing, she certainly got it.

Our guide took us through the farms and forest to reach the shore at La Playa Hermosa. The beach was empty, save for an occasional jogger.

Horseback riding in La Playa Hermosa in Uvita

The entire outing lasted two hours start to finish. The youngest allowable riders are 7, but I think the right 5 year-old could handle this trip. Lidia isn’t a huge fan of animals, and Amir was just 5 pounds over the weight limit. That meant #1BigSister and I were alone for our adventure.

After horseback riding, we drove back to the house to meet up with the rest of the crew. We ate leftovers for lunch and swam for an hour before rallying to head to the wildlife sanctuary.

The sanctuary houses rescued wildlife incapable of surviving in the wild. a surprising number of the rescued animals are abandoned or confiscated pets. In Costa Rica it’s essentially illegal to have any animal as a pet aside from cats and dogs.

The sanctuary is adjacent to a hotel and restaurant. We popped in for a bite after our tour. I wasn’t crazy hungry and just ordered some appetizers. That was supposed to be my meal, but the caprese salad disappeared with me only snagging one bite.

Of course I also ordered the ceviche. Lidia and I both agrees it may be the best one yet. One things for sure, I need to up my lime content in my ceviche next time I make it.

Tomorrow we head back home. I can’t even believe the days flew by so quickly. Fortunately we have a three week trip to Spain and Switzerland scheduled for the summer that helps lessen the blow of returning to the real world.

~Steph