As we continued our drive through the Rioja countryside, one detail kept catching my eye. Scattered among the vineyards and grain fields were lonely rectangular stone buildings, many with their roofs partially collapsed and wild grasses growing through the doorways. At first I wondered if they had once been homes, but they were actually small agricultural field houses.
Years ago, when farming was done almost entirely by hand, these simple structures were an essential part of daily life. Farmers stored tools, sheltered from the scorching summer sun or an unexpected storm, shared a midday meal, and sometimes kept a donkey or other working animals inside. Before trucks and modern machinery, it made sense to have a small building waiting out in the fields where the work was.
Today, many stand empty, their wooden roofs long since giving way while the thick stone walls continue to endure. Rather than eyesores, they feel like quiet monuments to generations of families who worked this land before tractors, irrigation systems, and modern wineries transformed agriculture. There was something beautiful about seeing them scattered across the landscape—silent reminders that every vineyard has a history, and that the Rioja of today was built on centuries of hard work by the people who came before.
When we arrived at the house in Peñautol, the kids wasted no time—they spotted the swimming pool and were in the water almost immediately. After a long day of traveling, it was the perfect way to burn off some energy and cool down.
Their second favorite discovery, however, was something completely unexpected: the bidet. None of them had ever seen one before, and once they figured out what it did, they were absolutely fascinated. The gentle spray of cool water had them dissolving into fits of laughter, convinced it was the funniest invention they’d ever encountered. It’s funny how the little everyday things we take for granted can become the most memorable moments when you’re traveling with kids.
Tomorrow we’ll explore Peñíscola and spend more time at a slow pace.
Today we ventured farther west from Autol, driving about 45 minutes through the beautiful countryside of La Rioja to Barranco Perdido, a one-of-a-kind dinosaur adventure park. The drive alone was worth the trip, winding through vineyards, rocky cliffs, and rolling hills that somehow become more beautiful around every bend.
This region of Spain is famous for its incredible concentration of dinosaur fossils. Millions of years ago, the landscape was a muddy, wet environment rather than the dry, rocky terrain it is today. Those muddy conditions perfectly preserved the footprints of dinosaurs that once wandered here, along with seashells and countless other fossils from an ancient world. It’s amazing to think that a place now surrounded by vineyards was once home to dinosaurs.
El Barranco Perdido offers an interesting mix of activities. Visitors can purchase a day pass that includes several swimming pools with water slides, plus a choice between a paleontology experience or an aerial adventure park with climbing platforms, bridges, and zip lines.
Unfortunately, we arrived a little later than planned, so we had to choose carefully how to spend our afternoon. We asked the kids whether they wanted the educational paleontology experience or the adventure park.
Adventure park won by a landslide.
We started at the swimming pools, which turned out to be the perfect way to escape the afternoon heat. The water was cool and refreshing, the pools were surprisingly uncrowded, and everyone had room to spread out. Amir and I couldn’t resist racing down the water slides before retreating to lounge chairs while the kids happily swam for hours.
One feature that really impressed me was how thoughtfully the park was designed for families. They know that adults actually want to enjoy the ropes course too, so they offer a supervised mini adventure camp for younger children who aren’t quite tall enough for the larger course.
Our youngest couldn’t have cared less that she didn’t speak the same language as the other children. Within seconds she was happily climbing a miniature rock wall, digging for dinosaurs in a giant sandbox, decorating a dinosaur mask, and participating in an all-out water blaster battle. She barely even waved goodbye before disappearing into the fun.
That left the four of us free to tackle the aerial adventure course.
#1BigSister on the zip line
After a quick lesson on harnesses, carabiners, and safety procedures, the staff took one look at my completely inappropriate footwear—gold leather flip-flops—and my crossbody purse.
Apparently neither was a deal breaker.
“Just sign here.”
It felt like they had learned a little something from the American legal system. Sign the waiver, acknowledge every possible risk, and off you go.
To my surprise, I wasn’t nearly as terrible at the course as I expected. Amir and our oldest had done something similar before, but this was my first experience navigating ropes, swinging bridges, and elevated platforms. I figured out the carabiner system quickly and managed to clip and unclip my safety lines without incident. Despite the flip-flops, I never slipped, fell, or found myself dangling helplessly in front of my family.
I decided not to push my luck by climbing the vertical rock wall that led to the zip-line tower. Some risks simply aren’t worth taking while wearing vacation sandals.
The giant carpet slide at the top of the mountain
I did, however, brave the giant enclosed carpet slide. The climb to the top rewarded us with spectacular views across the surrounding valley, and the ride back down was every bit as fun as the kids promised it would be.
By the time we finished, everyone was happily exhausted.
View from atop the entrance to the slide
On the drive back to Autol, we stopped by Doner Kebab for an easy takeaway dinner before returning to the house. We ate outside overlooking the pool, enjoyed one last evening swim, packed our suitcases, and said goodbye to Daniel, Lidia’s boyfriend, who had welcomed us so warmly during our stay.
Tomorrow we leave La Rioja behind and head east toward Peñíscola for the next chapter of our Spanish adventure. While we’re excited to see somewhere new, it’s hard to believe our time in Autol is already coming to an end. This little town—and especially Lidia’s wonderful family—has given us a glimpse of Spain that few tourists ever get to experience, and it’s something we’ll never forget.
One of the things I’ve loved most about our time in Autol is that every day has introduced us to another tradition that has quietly shaped life here for generations. Today, that tradition was mushrooms.
This morning, a friend of Lidia’s family welcomed us to his mushroom farm for an intimate tour. Like Lidia’s dad, he specializes in growing portobello mushrooms, while many other local farmers cultivate several different varieties. Walking through the cool, earthy growing rooms was fascinating. There is so much more science, patience, and craftsmanship behind mushroom farming than I ever realized.
Mushrooms for miles
He explained how the industry has changed over the past couple of decades. Twenty years ago, mushroom farming was a boutique business, with customers willing to pay a premium for high-quality, locally grown mushrooms. As Spain has faced more difficult economic times, demand has softened and margins have become much tighter. It would be easy to cut corners in pursuit of lower costs, but that’s not the path many of these family farmers have chosen.
Like so many traditions we’ve seen here in La Rioja, they continue to do things the way they’ve always believed they should be done—using organic, environmentally friendly practices and refusing to sacrifice quality simply to make a little more money. There was something deeply admirable about that quiet commitment to craftsmanship over convenience.
After our tour, we headed to Lidia’s family’s casilla, a countryside retreat much like the one where we’re staying. These little houses aren’t extravagant, but that’s precisely the point. They exist as places to gather—to cook, to eat, to swim, to share a bottle of wine, and to spend unhurried hours with family and friends. It’s a lifestyle centered around people rather than schedules.
The kids immediately claimed the pool, splashing and laughing while the adults settled into long conversations around the outdoor table. We sampled both red and white Rioja wines, along with a regional liqueur unique to this area. The kids, meanwhile, were perfectly content with ice cream cones in hand and another afternoon in the water.
Los cocineros
Back at our house that evening, Amir and Lidia transformed the mushrooms we had picked just hours earlier into dinner. Fresh portobello mushrooms sautéed simply, crusty bread from the neighborhood supermarket, fresh blueberries, and good company made for one of the most satisfying meals of the trip. Nothing was fancy, yet everything tasted exceptional because it was fresh, local, and shared together.
It wasn’t a day packed with famous landmarks or busy sightseeing. There were no long drives or crowded attractions. Instead, today reminded me that some of the richest travel experiences come from simply living alongside the people who call a place home.
It was slow. It was simple. And, perhaps because of that, it was exactly the day I didn’t know I needed.
I can still hear it echoing up the hillside as I write this. It’s after one in the morning, we’re finally back at the house, and the celebration in Autol is showing no signs of slowing down. Firecrackers explode every few minutes, car horns blare in celebration, and from somewhere down in the village comes another chorus of “¡Olé, olé, olé, olé!” The entire town is absolutely electric.
We joined what felt like the whole village in the plaza to watch the World Cup Final on a giant outdoor screen. The younger crowd claimed the center of the square, carrying chairs out into neat rows facing the television. The older generation—and those of us who have apparently graduated into that category—settled around the perimeter at café tables, sharing food, drinks, conversation, and the perfect warm summer evening while keeping one eye on the match.
Spain was magnificent.
Still, I couldn’t shake that familiar anxiety that comes with soccer. They controlled possession, created chance after chance, and looked like the better team for most of the match. But soccer has a cruel way of punishing dominance. One counterattack. One defensive mistake. One lucky bounce. After watching Spain dictate the pace for so long, I kept waiting for Argentina to steal a goal out of nowhere and turn the entire game upside down.
Thankfully, that moment never came.
Spain stayed disciplined, kept Argentina at bay, and when the final overtime whistle blew, the plaza erupted. Complete strangers were hugging, flags appeared from every direction, people were dancing in the streets, and the cheers seemed to roll through the valley. It was one of those unforgettable moments where you realize you’re witnessing something much bigger than a sporting event. We weren’t just watching Spain win a championship—we were watching an entire country celebrate together.
The kids were completely captivated from start to finish. Then halftime brought an unexpected surprise. The mayor invited every child under the age of ten onto the stage for a raffle. Naturally, #1BigSister somehow managed to draw the winning ticket. She walked away carrying an enormous plastic cone overflowing with chips, candy, and every imaginable snack. Some people simply have that kind of luck. If there’s a prize to be won—even when the odds are entirely random—it somehow finds its way into her hands.
Now we’re trying to convince three very excited children that it’s bedtime, which feels like an impossible task when the whole country is celebrating outside their windows. Sleep can wait, at least in their minds.
Tonight, Autol isn’t just a small village in La Rioja. It’s the center of a nationwide celebration, and we’re incredibly grateful that, for one unforgettable evening, we got to be part of it.
Yesterday was all about embracing the slower pace of life in Spain. Knowing we had a late night ahead of us, we intentionally kept the day relaxed, enjoying nature, good food, and time together before one very special celebration.
Octopus and squid for miles
Our first stop was the local grocery store, where we gathered everything we needed for a picnic: fresh crusty bread, jamón, local cheeses, fruit, and cold drinks. It’s amazing how something as simple as a picnic can feel like a feast when you’re surrounded by beautiful scenery.
We drove to El Piqueso y La Piquesa, a park known for its extraordinary rock formations. Over thousands of years, wind and rain have carved the sandstone into towering pillars that seem almost too unusual to be natural. A small river winds through the park, adding to the peaceful atmosphere. We smiled as we watched groups of young men floating downstream on inner tubes—proof that enjoying a lazy summer afternoon on the water isn’t just an American pastime. It looked remarkably like tubing on the James River back home in Richmond.
After exploring the park and enjoying our picnic, we returned to the house. The kids spent some time swimming before everyone attempted a traditional Spanish siesta in preparation for the evening festivities. Some of us were more successful than others. I’m looking at you, #1LittleSister.
Climbing wall at the park
That evening we celebrated Jesús and Raquel’s 25th wedding anniversary at the family vineyard, Viñedos Ruíz Jiménez, and “celebration” hardly seems like a big enough word.
The gardens had been transformed into a beautiful outdoor venue with wine barrel tables, elegant lighting, and a dance floor ready for the night’s festivities. Friends and family gathered to celebrate not just a marriage, but a life built together over twenty-five years.
The evening began with heartfelt speeches filled with gratitude, love, and laughter. One of the most touching moments came when Lidia surprised her parents by singing a beautiful love song in Spanish. Even without understanding every lyric, it was impossible not to feel the emotion behind it. It was a gift from daughter to parents that everyone present will remember.
The food seemed endless. Every few minutes another tray of delicious tapas would appear, each one somehow better than the last. #1LittleSister quickly discovered the jamón carving station and became one of its most enthusiastic customers. Before long, she’d made friends with the gentleman expertly slicing paper-thin pieces of ham.
Fresh prawns
As the sun disappeared, glow sticks and glowing necklaces were handed out, the music got louder, and the dance floor filled with people of every generation. There is something wonderful about watching grandparents, parents, teenagers, and little children all celebrating together.
One of the highlights of the evening was presenting Jesús and Raquel with our gift. This was entirely Amir’s idea, and he absolutely nailed it. He designed and created matching black leather motorcycle jackets with a custom patch on the back commemorating their 25th wedding anniversary and symbolizing the strength and unity of their family. Their reaction was priceless. The surprise, excitement, and genuine appreciation on their faces made all the planning worthwhile.
By the time we headed home, it was around one o’clock in the morning. The younger crowd continued the celebration into town, but this middle-aged emergency physician happily called it a night. Twenty years ago, I might have joined them. These days, sleep is a pretty wonderful gift.
Day 6
This morning, we met Jesús and Raquel in the village around noon. They knew the festival schedule by heart and insisted we couldn’t miss the children’s foam party. We had no idea what to expect, but it quickly became one of the kids’ favorite experiences of the trip.
In an open plaza near the hospital, a giant foam machine transformed an area roughly the size of a basketball court into a mountain of fluffy white bubbles. Within minutes, the children disappeared into a sea of foam, laughing as they ran, jumped, dove, and made “snow angels” in the middle of a Spanish summer. They piled the bubbles as high as they could, covered themselves from head to toe, and naturally made it their mission to bury their dad in foam as well.
The man running the foam machine clearly enjoyed entertaining the crowd. Armed with a garden hose, he would spray children who wanted to rinse off, but he seemed to have even more fun catching unsuspecting kids—and a few unsuspecting adults—with surprise blasts of cool water. Every unexpected soaking was met with squeals of laughter, followed by children racing back for more.
It’s these little village traditions that have made this trip so special. They’re not the kinds of experiences you’ll find in a travel guide, but they’re the moments our children will probably remember long after they’ve forgotten the names of famous landmarks.
Tonight promises to be another memorable evening. At 6:00, we’ll be cheering on Lidia as she performs saxophone with her friends in a community concert. Afterward, we’ll stay in the village square with what feels like the entire town as Spain takes on Argentina in the World Cup. Watching such a huge match on a giant screen, surrounded by passionate Spanish fans in the middle of a village festival, feels like one of those experiences you simply can’t recreate. I have a feeling tonight will be one for the memory books.
TeamLouka 