Costa Rica Day 8: The Journey Home

Two of the three kids awoke at 3:30AM in tears from Swimmer’s Ear. Considering how much time they spent in the pool, it’s not at all surprising. We checked out of our AirBnB before heading to the pharmacy for cipro drops and breakfast at Mono Congo Cafe. By check out, I mean we just left the place unlocked with the keys on the table. They are very light on rules here. Pura Vida.

We took the Sansa puddle jumper back from Quepos to San Jose without much fanfare. The weather was clearer this go around, letting my nerve relax a bit.

Kids Zone at San Jose Airport

We have a direct flight back to Dulles, then the (hopefully) 2 hour drive back to Richmond.

Pros of Costa Rica:

  • Easy to get to from East Coast
  • Food (fresh fruit, simple ingredients) is appealing to all ages
  • Water everywhere – with endless opportunities for swimming, #1LittleSister officially know how to swim
  • Housing/lodging is very affordable
  • Friendly people everywhere
  • Nearly everyone speaks English in addition to Spanish

In general we tend to not repeat trips (Florence and London are exceptions as we had family both places). But I could see us coming back here for sure.

Thankfully tomorrow is Sunday, and no one has to work or be anywhere. I’ll hide the Easter baskets in the morning, and we’ll hunt for eggs in the yard just like last year.

Thanks for following along with me. Pura Vida.

~Steph

The Louka Family

Costa Rica Day 7: Horseback riding on the beach & a visit to Alturas Wildlife Sanctuary

Somehow I woke up and this is the last full day of our trip. I feel like I was just telling #1BigBrother not to worry, that we had plenty of time left. Se la vie.

#1BigSister in El Ratón

There were just three people in our group for the 8:30am ride with Rancho La Merced in Uvita. The other person was a French woman in her 70s who spoke no English or Spanish. If she wanted a quiet, serene outing, she certainly got it.

Our guide took us through the farms and forest to reach the shore at La Playa Hermosa. The beach was empty, save for an occasional jogger.

Horseback riding in La Playa Hermosa in Uvita

The entire outing lasted two hours start to finish. The youngest allowable riders are 7, but I think the right 5 year-old could handle this trip. Lidia isn’t a huge fan of animals, and Amir was just 5 pounds over the weight limit. That meant #1BigSister and I were alone for our adventure.

After horseback riding, we drove back to the house to meet up with the rest of the crew. We ate leftovers for lunch and swam for an hour before rallying to head to the wildlife sanctuary.

The sanctuary houses rescued wildlife incapable of surviving in the wild. a surprising number of the rescued animals are abandoned or confiscated pets. In Costa Rica it’s essentially illegal to have any animal as a pet aside from cats and dogs.

The sanctuary is adjacent to a hotel and restaurant. We popped in for a bite after our tour. I wasn’t crazy hungry and just ordered some appetizers. That was supposed to be my meal, but the caprese salad disappeared with me only snagging one bite.

Of course I also ordered the ceviche. Lidia and I both agrees it may be the best one yet. One things for sure, I need to up my lime content in my ceviche next time I make it.

Tomorrow we head back home. I can’t even believe the days flew by so quickly. Fortunately we have a three week trip to Spain and Switzerland scheduled for the summer that helps lessen the blow of returning to the real world.

~Steph

Costa Rica Day 6: Zion Paragliding

Well, it’s time for my semi-annual guest-post. But what a day to blog about.

The adventure actually started yesterday when Lidia and I made our way down to the town of Dominical. One of the activities we had noticed immediately after booking this particular AirBnB was “Zion Paragliding” nearby – we made bookings for flights on consecutive days (someone would need to stay back with the littles). Unfortunately, the sky was overcast, and when we arrived at the designated meeting point I received a text – “Sorry but the weather isn’t good today – can you rebook?” Sigh. Sure.

But being April 1st, and returning more than an hour early, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to prank Steph and Evie with a story about a failed jump, bodies in the canopy, and all flights being cancelled while the authorities investigate.

Morning moonrise

This morning I was delighted to wake up to clear, sunny skies and a light breeze. We set off again with fingers crossed for the 10am rendezvous with our pilots, knowing Steph and Evie’s afternoon booking hinged entirely upon the success or failure of our own mission.

Three guys met us at Mama Toucan’s Organic Grocery right on time – a Frenchman, a Spaniard and an Argentinian – all multilingual and with 30+ years of experience between them despite their combined ages seeming to be about 40. We piled into their Land Cruiser with chute packs on the roof and set off on a 20 minute drive up a very, very, very steep hill to the jump point.

The view from the top of the mountain was incredible – we could see all the way to Quepos, an hour’s drive away, where we went fishing (not catching) a few days earlier. We scribbled on a couple of waivers, knowing if anything went seriously wrong there wouldn’t be much left of us to worry about a lawsuit. And, without much need for a briefing, we were strapped in and running off the edge of a cliff within ten minutes.

Lidia’s flight

With the wing open above, it wasn’t nearly as much of a plummeting drop as I had imagined. Rather, we just stepped off the side and floated away. I was immediately struck by just how calm and comfortable it was. The harness is designed like a seat, with an air cushion on the bottom (more on that later), and my pilot, Chase, said to just sit back into the harness and get comfortable. So I did. If Aladdin had a flying settee instead of a carpet, it would feel exactly like that.

Amir and Pilot Chase

Lidia had jumped before me and was already floating along with her pilot, Fernando, spiraling up into thermals and gliding over the jungle. We were able to look down and find our house, knowing Steph and the kids were down there waving up at us. Sadly, we couldn’t hear them screaming “LIDIAAAAAA!!!”

“LIDIAAAAAA!”

After about 20 minutes of soaring, we made our way down towards the primary landing zone at Dominical Beach. I watched Lidia gently touch down, then lined up for our own approach. The pilot told me to just lift my feet and let the airbag do the rest – we glided down over the beach, flared, and set down gently on the sand.

Needless to say, we were both beaming when we got home, telling Steph and Evie – who up to this point had been a bit lukewarm on the whole idea (not helped by the prior day’s hilarious prank) – that this is an opportunity not to miss. We showed them a few videos and our lack of injuries, and they were sold.

Steph and Evie set off for the afternoon booking which seemed just as incredible – perhaps more so as they were able to climb all the way into the clouds and maneuver together for some formation flying. The look on Evie’s face in the videos captured by her pilot’s GoPro made the entire trip a success as far as I’m concerned. Worth. Every. Penny.

Evie’s takeoff

There may have been a minor incident involving a dead dog, broken glass, and threats of bodily harm to conclude their experience, but that’s a story for another day. Pura vida.

~Amir

Brave 9 year old

Costa Rica Day 4: Fishing (but not much catching) Charter and El Avión Restaurante

Today was an early start by design. We somewhat last minute booked a 5 hour deep sea fishing charter. You see, since our honeymoon fishing charter in Belize when we had a fruitful catch and ate for days (Thank you Terry’s Grill), we’ve tried to schedule a fishing trip whenever we travel. In Jamaica Amir and I were skunked when we tried to recreate our mega honeymoon catch. And we’ve been chasing that epic fishing adventure ever since.

We arrived at Marina Pez Vela at 6:45, allowing us time to hit the ATM for the all-cash experience, and potties for those of us afraid of the on-board bathroom experience.

Pre-seasickness

Our boat was the perfect size for six. The benchmark seat up front for all three kids perfectly. Unfortunately for #1BigSister, today was the day she learned about seasickness. It took just ten minutes for it to set in despite Zofran and recurrent instructions to focus on the horizon line.

Oddly enough the guys headed out directly towards a thunderstorm complete with a water spout in the distance. We were just about to question their judgment when they has us drop lines in and Amir immediately reeled in a 20” bonito.

Amir’s bonito 🐟

Unfortunately the weather (and lightening) demanded that we head elsewhere. And of course, there wasn’t a single nibble after that initial catch. Womp womp.

We still had fun though – to stave off the seasickness we stopped at a good swimming spot and allowed all the kids to jump in the water. Lidia went first to swim with them, then we traded out. Amir kept fishing and fishing and fishing.

As soon as #1BigBrother seamed to be getting the seasickness, we cut our losses and headed back to the marina about an hour early. The Captain was determined to not let us leave empty handed, but we knew it was time to pack it in.

The ReefExplorer is dual function

After fishing and not catching, we’d worked up an appetite. They made us sandwiches in the boat, but this crew was completely willing to eat twice. At the San Jose domestic terminal, we ran into one of #1BigSister’s classmates from back home. The mom mentioned they had reservations at El Avión, and suggested we check it out. Turns out it was only 14 minutes away from the marina.

El Avión ✈️

I’ve made it my mission to eat as much ceviche as possible. I’m ordering at each place we go, trying to gauge who has the best and how to recreate it at home.

The restaurant is built around a Fairchild C-123 cargo plane with a deep history in the 1980s Cold War Iran-Contra scandal. Once used by the CIA to supply weapons to the Nicaraguan Contras, it was abandoned in San Jose for years before being purchased for $3,000, transported to Manuel Antonio, and converted into a restaurant and bar in 2000. It’s now surrounded by a multi-level restaurant and bar.

El Avión Bar

The other bonus feature of El Avión is the built-in wildlife. Right when we got there we had our first sloth sighting of the trip, mom and baby together in a tree.

As we ate, the waiter called our attention to a macaw atop a tree in the distance. I’ve enjoyed the newer features of my iPhone camera this trip. It helps me zoom in on things I’d never be able to see on my own.

Climbing into the cockpit at El Avión

On the ride home, everyone except Amir fell asleep almost immediately. He dropped us off at the house and headed back down the mountain to the grocery store. Fishless, we needed a plan B for dinner, as well as some sunscreen and aloe after a long hot day.

West Coast Sunsets

Tomorrow Amir and Lidia have reservations for paragliding. I technically have a reservation as well but for the next day. Part of me wants someone else to do a test run first. The older I get, the more cautious I am. Ain’t nobody got time for broken ankles or road rash.

~Steph

Evie’s View of Costa Rica

Yesterday we met Reagan at the airport. Reagan has been telling me that she is going to be at Costa Rica and it really got me excited about going. Reagan is in my class and loves to finger crochet with me and some other girls. It made me so happy because we had been waiting for our second flight for a long time. Although that was fun we couldn’t talk for too long because Reagan and her family had a flight to catch. We hope to be able to get together and do something fun. I still want to ask her if she had to go on an airplane that had a propeller in the front and carried only a few people. 🤲🏻✈️🧶

 Today’s lunch has started out great. All of the drinks labeled sour are not sour but sweet!Dad and Ollie had soursop and it was delicious. I had a sour guava and it was very sweet and strong in flavor. Right now all we have had is appetizers but there are many yummy things that are cooking. I ordered some vegan chicken nuggets. Dad said that if I am a vegetarian for a week the whole family will be a vegetarian for a week. 🥘

 Dad just got us more juice and said that if we keep behaving than we can have as much juice as we want. We also noticed that there is a tiny island that is getting washed away by the water 💦 I don’t think that it is an island that people can live on because it is so small and hard to see. I got another sour guava and Ollie and dad got soursop again. 🥭🥝🥥🍋‍🟩🫐

Coconut Flan
Piña Colada
Fish Tacos

~Evie