Family & Friends, Food & Drink, Travel Adventures

Day 11: Aquamotos, Castle Views, and the Best Lunch of the Trip

This morning we returned to the beach, but instead of claiming our usual spot in the sand, we traded towels for aquamotos—what we would simply call jet skis back home. Around here they’re also known as “water bikes,” and after today I understand why they’re such a popular way to experience the coastline.

There were six of us altogether. I rode with #1BigSister, Amir paired up with #1BigBrother, and Lidia and Marta climbed onto a jet ski together for their very first ride. They took turns driving and, despite being beginners, had absolutely no fear. Before long they were flying across the Mediterranean faster than the rest of us.

Marta y Lidia

Meanwhile, I discovered that my passenger and I had very different ideas of what constituted a comfortable speed. As soon as we pulled away from shore, she asked me to slow down because my 20 mph felt much too fast. Little by little her confidence grew, and by the end of the ride we were happily skimming across the water at over 40 mph, laughing the whole way.

The thrill of the ride was wonderful, but it wasn’t what made the experience unforgettable.

What I hadn’t anticipated was that riding out into the Mediterranean would give us the most spectacular view of Peñíscola Castle imaginable. From the water, the fortress seems to rise directly out of the sea. We circled around the back side of the rocky peninsula, where tourists on foot never venture, passing sea caves carved into the limestone cliffs and quiet stretches of shoreline with no one else around. Seeing the castle from that perspective made me appreciate why this fortress has guarded the coast for centuries.

La Castilla de Peñíscola

I wore my Meta glasses throughout the ride, hoping they might capture a few memorable moments. Given the wind, spray, and constant bouncing over the waves, I wasn’t sure what to expect. To my surprise, the photos and videos turned out beautifully, preserving views that would have been nearly impossible to capture while holding a camera.

Our guide made an already fantastic morning even better. We had booked the aquamotos for 45 minutes, but since no one had reserved the next time slot—and because we had been respectful with the machines—he waved us on and let us continue for nearly another half hour. It felt like an unexpected gift, giving us even more time to explore the coastline.

After working up an appetite, we returned for lunch and were introduced to another regional specialty. At first glance it looked like paella, but instead of rice it was made with short pieces of toasted pasta. The dish, called fideuà, shares many of paella’s flavors but has its own wonderful texture, especially with a generous spoonful of creamy garlic aioli stirred in. Served alongside fresh, crusty bread, it may have been one of the best meals I’ve ever eaten.

Before
After

Lunch ended with a small glass of pacharán, a traditional sloe berry liqueur from northern Spain. Here it isn’t simply a drink—it’s part of the rhythm of the meal. Conversations slow down, glasses are raised, and people linger around the table instead of rushing off to the next activity. Like so many customs we’ve experienced in Spain, it reminds us that meals are about far more than food. They’re about spending time together.

Today was one of those rare travel days that seemed to have everything: adventure, breathtaking scenery, unforgettable food, and the simple joy of sharing it all with family and friends.

~Steph

Ps: here’s a little food porn from last night

Manchego
Octopus y potatoes
Baby eels y eggs
Chorizo
Pan
Oliva’s
Tomato, garlic purée
Octopus y potatoes
Family & Friends, Food & Drink, Travel Adventures

España Day 10: From the Beach to the Castle to the Waterpark

After an afternoon of splashing in the Mediterranean, racing down the slide on our paddle boat, and soaking up the sun, we made our way back to the casilla. The cool pool was exactly what we needed after a hot day at the beach, and before long, everyone had drifted off for a well-earned Spanish siesta. By now, we’ve learned that the rhythm of life here isn’t just a tradition—it’s survival during the summer heat.

La Castilla Peñíscola

As the evening cooled, we set out on foot toward the crown jewel of Peñíscola: its magnificent castle. Perched high on a rocky peninsula and surrounded by the sea on three sides, the fortress has watched over this coastline for more than 700 years. Originally built by the Knights Templar between 1294 and 1307 on the remains of an earlier Muslim fortress, it later became famous as the home of Pope Benedict XIII—better known as Pope Luna—who continued to claim the papacy from these walls during the Western Schism. Walking through its gates, it felt less like visiting a tourist attraction and more like stepping into a living medieval city.

The climb wound through impossibly narrow stone streets, polished smooth and shiny by centuries upon centuries of footsteps. Every uneven stone seemed to tell a story. No cars are allowed within the castle walls—and after seeing the winding alleys for ourselves, it’s obvious they couldn’t fit even if they tried. Every corner opened onto another tiny plaza, flower-filled balcony, or breathtaking glimpse of the Mediterranean below.

Jesús has a friend who owns several restaurants inside the castle walls, so when he heard our party of nine was coming, he directed us to one of his quieter restaurants tucked away from the busiest streets. It felt like discovering a hidden gem. Inside, cured jamón legs hung from the ceiling, and only one other table was occupied, making the evening feel relaxed and intimate.

Dinner quickly became one of those meals we’ll remember for years. Plate after plate arrived to share: several varieties of jamón, octopus, squid, and even caballo for the adventurous among us. The unanimous favorite, however, was the crispy patatas bravas, disappearing almost as quickly as they reached the table. A pitcher of sangria completed the experience, and we lingered over dinner, enjoying both the food and the company.

Afterward, we wandered through the illuminated streets of the castle. The children were captivated by a street magician whose tricks drew gasps and laughter, then stumbled upon a charming puppet show that held their attention far longer than we expected. Naturally, the evening ended with what everyone agreed was the best ice cream in town. While the kids happily devoured their cones, the adults settled into a nearby café. Some of us lingered over coffee, while others relaxed with a cerveza or a vodka tonic, soaking in the atmosphere of a medieval fortress that somehow feels just as alive today as it must have centuries ago.

Magician

It was the perfect ending to another unforgettable day in Spain.

Aquarama Adventure

Aquarama turned out to be the perfect-sized waterpark. It had a great variety of slides—tall and short, open and enclosed, gentle and heart-pounding. One thing that really stood out was that they limit the number of tickets sold each day, so the park never felt overcrowded and the lines stayed surprisingly manageable. Lifeguards in fluorescent yellow shirts and bright red shorts were stationed throughout the park, friendly, professional, and bilingual in both Spanish and English.

Aquarama in Benicàssim, Spain

Watching them brought back a flood of memories. Once upon a time, I was a waterpark lifeguard during my college summers. What started as a fun seasonal job with a great social scene unexpectedly became my full-time career after graduating from UVA, when my management consulting job with PwC disappeared as the dot-com bubble burst in 2001. Overnight, many of us with impressive job offers found ourselves scrambling for work as the economy shifted beneath our feet.

Looking back, I’m incredibly grateful that life took that detour. Beyond making lifelong friends and sporting an enviable tan, I grew with the company into a supervisory role. I hired more than 200 seasonal employees each summer, occasionally had to let people go, and learned invaluable lessons about leadership, coaching, and helping people grow. Those experiences shaped me in ways I never could have imagined, and I still rely on those skills every day as an emergency physician. I’m especially glad I ignored the well-meaning people who insisted I needed a “traditional” internship. Lifeguarding wasn’t a backup plan—it became a foundation for the physician and leader I am today.

Six hours of swimming, climbing stairs, and racing down slides left our entire crew completely exhausted. Before leaving, we each ordered a gofrula—a freshly made waffle topped with your choice of chocolate, caramel, jam, whipped cream, or white chocolate. We may have indulged just a little by choosing two toppings each. Mine? White chocolate and caramel.

Now we’re winding our way back to Peñíscola, with three of the six passengers already fast asleep before we’ve even reached the highway. It feels like the perfect ending to another unforgettable day in Spain.

~Steph

Sorry #1BigBrother!
Family & Friends, Food & Drink, Travel Adventures

España Day 9: Peñautol

One of the things that has fascinated me most about this trip is where we’re staying. Yesterday we arrived at Lidia’s family’s beach house in Peñíscolas, and it’s unlike any vacation community I’ve ever seen.

Neighbors in Peñautol who live here year round

More than 50 years ago, Lidia’s grandparents joined with several other families from Autol to dream up something special. Together, they pooled their money, designed the community, and helped build what they call Peñautol (Peñíscola + Autol). The result was ten modest beach homes, or casillas, tucked behind a gate and centered around a shared swimming pool.

Originally, every one of the ten homes belonged to families from Autol. Over the years, a few have changed hands, and today about half are still owned by those original Autol families. Even so, the sense of history and connection remains. These aren’t just vacation homes—they’re places where generations of the same families have spent their summers together, watching children become parents and now grandparents.

I can’t help but admire the vision it took. In an era long before crowdfunding or master-planned communities, a group of friends from a small Spanish town came together to create something that would bring their families joy for decades. Standing here today, more than 50 years later, with our own children splashing in the same shared pool, it’s clear they succeeded.

Castilla de Peñíscola

This morning we packed up our beach gear and made our way to the beach in Peñíscola. On the way, we stopped at a little shop to pick up a few essentials: inflatable rafts for the kids, some sand toys, and anything else that looked like it might make for a fun day by the sea.

Our first priority after arriving was securing a few lounge chairs under an umbrella. Once we had claimed our little patch of shade, the kids wasted no time racing toward the Mediterranean. While Amir wrestled with his inflatable, I proudly managed to get mine blown up first—a small but satisfying victory!

Me, Raquel y Lidia

The day settled into the perfect beach rhythm: jumping waves, building in the sand, floating in the warm water, and simply soaking in the atmosphere. What makes this beach truly unforgettable, though, is the backdrop. Rising dramatically from the rocky peninsula is the magnificent castle of Peñíscola, its ancient stone walls towering above the sea. It’s hard to imagine a more beautiful setting for a day at the beach.

The beach itself is undeniably crowded—and this wasn’t even a weekend. Brightly colored umbrellas covered nearly every inch of sand, and once you were in the water you had to keep an eye out to avoid drifting into someone else’s float or body surfing into another family. Yet somehow it never felt overwhelming. There was an infectious energy to it all. The laughter, conversations in a dozen languages, children chasing waves, and the constant movement made the beach feel vibrant and alive.

One of the highlights of the day was renting a paddle boat with a built-in waterslide. Climbing up and launching ourselves into the sea brought out everyone’s inner child. Unfortunately, I left my waterproof phone case behind, so I don’t have any photos of us flying down the slide. Sometimes the best memories are the ones you simply have to experience.

Paddle boat rental at Peñíscola Beach

As we paddled around, I couldn’t help but wonder if something like this would be a hit back home at the Greater Richmond Sailing Association. I asked Amir whether a paddle boat without a sail would even be allowed on the water there. He wasn’t sure, but agreed that if the club members saw how much fun everyone was having, they might be willing to make an exception. It may be a far-fetched idea—but I have a feeling it would be a popular one!

After a full morning at the beach, everyone was ready for lunch. We picked up a takeout paella from a small local spot that, somewhat surprisingly, is also known for making excellent pizza. It felt wonderfully unpretentious—here was one of Spain’s most iconic dishes being served from a casual neighborhood takeaway.

Back at the house, we gathered around the outdoor table to enjoy our feast. As seems to be the custom here, neighbors wandered over with an open invitation to join us. There was no need for formal plans or elaborate invitations—just good food, good conversation, and whoever happened to be nearby. It’s a refreshing way to live.

After lunch, the kids wasted no time jumping back into the pool while the adults lingered over conversation in the shade. Eventually, though, the Mediterranean heat caught up with all of us. At 5:15, the house grew quiet as everyone retreated to their bedrooms for a proper siesta. At first, the late-afternoon nap seemed like an unusual tradition to me, but after spending a few days here, I’m beginning to understand why it’s endured for generations.

Tonight we’re looking forward to something completely different: dinner inside the castle walls of Peñíscola. After spending the day admiring the fortress from the beach, we’ll finally get the chance to climb up into the old city and experience it from within. It feels like the perfect way to end another unforgettable day on Spain’s Mediterranean coast.

~Steph

Family & Friends, Travel Adventures

España Day 8: Autol a Peñíscola

As we continued our drive through the Rioja countryside, one detail kept catching my eye. Scattered among the vineyards and grain fields were lonely rectangular stone buildings, many with their roofs partially collapsed and wild grasses growing through the doorways. At first I wondered if they had once been homes, but they were actually small agricultural field houses.

Years ago, when farming was done almost entirely by hand, these simple structures were an essential part of daily life. Farmers stored tools, sheltered from the scorching summer sun or an unexpected storm, shared a midday meal, and sometimes kept a donkey or other working animals inside. Before trucks and modern machinery, it made sense to have a small building waiting out in the fields where the work was.

Today, many stand empty, their wooden roofs long since giving way while the thick stone walls continue to endure. Rather than eyesores, they feel like quiet monuments to generations of families who worked this land before tractors, irrigation systems, and modern wineries transformed agriculture. There was something beautiful about seeing them scattered across the landscape—silent reminders that every vineyard has a history, and that the Rioja of today was built on centuries of hard work by the people who came before.

When we arrived at the house in Peñautol, the kids wasted no time—they spotted the swimming pool and were in the water almost immediately. After a long day of traveling, it was the perfect way to burn off some energy and cool down.

Their second favorite discovery, however, was something completely unexpected: the bidet. None of them had ever seen one before, and once they figured out what it did, they were absolutely fascinated. The gentle spray of cool water had them dissolving into fits of laughter, convinced it was the funniest invention they’d ever encountered. It’s funny how the little everyday things we take for granted can become the most memorable moments when you’re traveling with kids.

Tomorrow we’ll explore Peñíscola and spend more time at a slow pace.

~Steph

Travel Adventures, Family & Friends

Day 7: Dinosaurs, Zip Lines, and Flip-Flops

Today we ventured farther west from Autol, driving about 45 minutes through the beautiful countryside of La Rioja to Barranco Perdido, a one-of-a-kind dinosaur adventure park. The drive alone was worth the trip, winding through vineyards, rocky cliffs, and rolling hills that somehow become more beautiful around every bend.

This region of Spain is famous for its incredible concentration of dinosaur fossils. Millions of years ago, the landscape was a muddy, wet environment rather than the dry, rocky terrain it is today. Those muddy conditions perfectly preserved the footprints of dinosaurs that once wandered here, along with seashells and countless other fossils from an ancient world. It’s amazing to think that a place now surrounded by vineyards was once home to dinosaurs.

El Barranco Perdido offers an interesting mix of activities. Visitors can purchase a day pass that includes several swimming pools with water slides, plus a choice between a paleontology experience or an aerial adventure park with climbing platforms, bridges, and zip lines.

Unfortunately, we arrived a little later than planned, so we had to choose carefully how to spend our afternoon. We asked the kids whether they wanted the educational paleontology experience or the adventure park.

Adventure park won by a landslide.

We started at the swimming pools, which turned out to be the perfect way to escape the afternoon heat. The water was cool and refreshing, the pools were surprisingly uncrowded, and everyone had room to spread out. Amir and I couldn’t resist racing down the water slides before retreating to lounge chairs while the kids happily swam for hours.

One feature that really impressed me was how thoughtfully the park was designed for families. They know that adults actually want to enjoy the ropes course too, so they offer a supervised mini adventure camp for younger children who aren’t quite tall enough for the larger course.

Our youngest couldn’t have cared less that she didn’t speak the same language as the other children. Within seconds she was happily climbing a miniature rock wall, digging for dinosaurs in a giant sandbox, decorating a dinosaur mask, and participating in an all-out water blaster battle. She barely even waved goodbye before disappearing into the fun.

That left the four of us free to tackle the aerial adventure course.

#1BigSister on the zip line

After a quick lesson on harnesses, carabiners, and safety procedures, the staff took one look at my completely inappropriate footwear—gold leather flip-flops—and my crossbody purse.

Apparently neither was a deal breaker.

“Just sign here.”

It felt like they had learned a little something from the American legal system. Sign the waiver, acknowledge every possible risk, and off you go.

To my surprise, I wasn’t nearly as terrible at the course as I expected. Amir and our oldest had done something similar before, but this was my first experience navigating ropes, swinging bridges, and elevated platforms. I figured out the carabiner system quickly and managed to clip and unclip my safety lines without incident. Despite the flip-flops, I never slipped, fell, or found myself dangling helplessly in front of my family.

I decided not to push my luck by climbing the vertical rock wall that led to the zip-line tower. Some risks simply aren’t worth taking while wearing vacation sandals.

The giant carpet slide at the top of the mountain

I did, however, brave the giant enclosed carpet slide. The climb to the top rewarded us with spectacular views across the surrounding valley, and the ride back down was every bit as fun as the kids promised it would be.

By the time we finished, everyone was happily exhausted.

View from atop the entrance to the slide

On the drive back to Autol, we stopped by Doner Kebab for an easy takeaway dinner before returning to the house. We ate outside overlooking the pool, enjoyed one last evening swim, packed our suitcases, and said goodbye to Daniel, Lidia’s boyfriend, who had welcomed us so warmly during our stay.

Tomorrow we leave La Rioja behind and head east toward Peñíscola for the next chapter of our Spanish adventure. While we’re excited to see somewhere new, it’s hard to believe our time in Autol is already coming to an end. This little town—and especially Lidia’s wonderful family—has given us a glimpse of Spain that few tourists ever get to experience, and it’s something we’ll never forget.

~Steph