Family & Friends, Food & Drink, Travel Adventures July 31, 2026July 31, 2026

Switzerland Day 17: Chocolate, Chocolate…and More Chocolate

This morning we packed up our chalet—another Airbnb win—and somehow managed to squeeze ourselves and all of our luggage back into the Hyundai Santa Fe. I’m still not entirely convinced the laws of physics weren’t temporarily suspended.

Before this trip, the one thing Lidia repeatedly said she wanted to do in Switzerland was tour a chocolate factory. She’s a bit of a chocoholic, so visiting Maison Cailler was at the very top of her Swiss bucket list. Fortunately, it was perfectly positioned to break up our drive from Les Collons to the Zurich airport.

Admission to the tour is 17 CHF (about $21 USD) for adults, 7 CHF (about $9 USD) for children ages 6–17, and free for children under 5—a pretty reasonable price considering how much chocolate was waiting for us at the end.

The museum itself is exceptionally well done. Upon entering, you’re handed an audio guide in the language of your choice. As you move through the exhibits, you simply hold it to your ear and tap it against each display to hear the next chapter of the story. Rather than listening to a generic narrator, you hear from the people actually involved in making the chocolate—from machine operators and chocolatiers to the artisans who still hand-decorate many of the confections.

The tour begins thousands of years ago with the Aztecs, who considered cacao a sacred gift from the gods. Their chocolate looked nothing like the sweet treat we know today. It was a bitter, frothy drink flavored with spices and reserved primarily for nobility and warriors. In the early 1500s, the Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés brought cacao back to Europe after encountering it in the Americas. Once Europeans began adding sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla, chocolate quickly became a luxury enjoyed by royalty across the continent.

The Swiss entered the story much later—but completely changed it. During the 1800s, Swiss chocolatiers transformed chocolate from an occasional luxury into the smooth, creamy confection we know today. Daniel Peter developed milk chocolate using condensed milk created by his neighbor, Henri Nestlé, while Rodolphe Lindt invented the conching process that gives chocolate its silky texture. François-Louis Cailler, the founder of Maison Cailler, was one of Switzerland’s chocolate pioneers, opening the country’s first mechanized chocolate factory and helping establish Switzerland’s worldwide reputation for producing exceptional chocolate.

After the educational portion of the tour, the real fun began.

Your admission ticket includes unlimited chocolate samples.

There is only one rule: you have to eat them there. No stuffing handfuls into your purse. No filling your pockets. No strategically loading up your backpack.

(I’m looking at you, Amir.)

#1BigSister and I attacked the tasting room together. We started responsibly with small rectangles of white chocolate before moving on to creamy milk chocolate squares, hazelnut-filled logs, and adorable milk chocolate cups filled with white chocolate. Somewhere around that point, I realized I had reached my chocolate limit—a sentence I never imagined I’d say. I found myself desperately wishing for a cold glass of milk and actually saying, “No thanks,” to more chocolate. There simply wasn’t enough room left to give the dark chocolate the attention it deserved.

As if unlimited chocolate tasting wasn’t enough, the tour conveniently ends inside the enormous chocolate store.

Amir grabbed a shopping basket and immediately began filling it with such enthusiasm that it looked like he was competing in one of those game shows where contestants have 60 seconds to throw as much as possible into their cart. Chocolate bars. Truffles. Gift boxes. Assorted pralines. If it contained chocolate, it somehow found its way into the basket.

Needless to say, we may have picked up a few gifts for a few special people back home in Virginia.

…assuming Amir doesn’t eat them before we get there.

We hit a bit of traffic after the chocolate factory on our way to Zurich. One fender bender involving a car and a camper van added about an hour to our drive. Fortunately, we had bananas in the car to keep everyone from getting too hangry, and they bought us just enough patience to make it into the city.

For dinner, we set our sights on Hiltl, the world’s oldest continually operating vegetarian restaurant, as a nod to #1BigSister. She had been incredibly patient this trip. Spain is a paradise for meat lovers—jamón, chorizo, and every variety of sausage imaginable—but not exactly a vegetarian’s dream. She’s eaten more pasta with red sauce over the past two weeks than she probably cares to see again. Switzerland hasn’t been much easier, so tonight was her night.

The restaurant was heaven for her. The all-vegetarian buffet featured cuisine from around the world: Japanese udon noodles, tofu curry, falafel, vegan chicken nuggets, French fries, grilled vegetables, fresh fruit, desserts, and countless other dishes. There had to be over a hundred options. The concept was simple—you filled your plate, took it to the register, and paid by weight.

We were a little nervous the kids would enthusiastically pile their plates high only to leave most of it behind, but much to our surprise, every one of them cleaned their plate. Everyone was impressed by how convincing the vegetarian chicken nuggets were. We capped off dinner by sharing a dessert plate before making our way to the hotel.

Tonight we checked into the Holiday Inn Express near the airport, and I have to say, it’s probably the nicest Holiday Inn Express I’ve ever stayed in. Over the years, I’ve accumulated quite a stash of IHG points from staying at the Holiday Inn Express in South Hill while working shifts at VCU Health Community Memorial Hospital. Those points paid for all three of our rooms tonight, making the stay completely free.

The hospitality was exceptional. At check-in they welcomed us with complimentary beers, hot chocolate, Coke Zero, and what seemed like an endless supply of Swiss chocolate. Check-in was effortless, and after a long day of driving, that was exactly what we needed.

Breakfast is included tomorrow morning, although with a 4:00 a.m. wake-up and a 4:30 departure, I’m not sure we’ll be eating much. We’ll certainly take advantage of the coffee. From Zurich we’ll fly to Brussels, then onward to Dulles before making the final drive back to Richmond. Travel days home are always long. Between the time change, customs, baggage claim, and then several more hours on I-95, it’s a marathon. Thankfully, we were able to book lay-flat business class seats for the overnight flight, which should hopefully allow us to arrive with at least a little sleep under our belts.

Switzerland has been a fascinating country. More than once I found myself asking ChatGPT to explain some aspect of Swiss culture, beginning with the language. Switzerland has four national languages—German, French, Italian, and Romansh—and the country’s commitment to neutrality extends beyond international politics. Even domestically, they work hard not to favor one linguistic or cultural group over another. I even learned why Switzerland’s internet domain is “.ch” instead of something like “.sw.” It comes from the country’s Latin name, Confoederatio Helvetica, avoiding preference for any one of the country’s major languages.

The scenery here has been breathtaking. Everything seems to function with remarkable efficiency. At times, the people have seemed a bit reserved, although that’s probably an unfair comparison after spending nearly two weeks in Spain being welcomed as family by Lidia’s parents, relatives, and lifelong friends. Switzerland, in its own way, has been incredibly family-friendly. There are activities everywhere for children, transportation is seamless, everything feels clean and organized, and traveling here with three kids has been far less stressful than I expected.

I’m looking forward to tomorrow’s flight home. Airplanes have always been a place of reflection for me. There’s something about being suspended somewhere between one place and another that makes it easier to process everything you’ve experienced. Every vacation has a re-entry period, but after an 18-day adventure through Spain and Switzerland, stepping back into everyday life will feel especially strange. Fortunately, I have at least a day or two before returning to work, giving me time to unpack, catch my breath, organize the house, and ease back into reality.

I may write a short post tomorrow about the trip home, although travel days rarely make for particularly exciting reading. Before we wrap up this adventure, though, I want to thank a few people.

First, Amir deserves enormous credit. He was the principal architect of this entire trip, handling nearly all of the flights, almost all of the lodging, the rental cars, and the endless logistics required to move six people through two countries over eighteen days. Trips like this don’t just happen. They require months of planning, flexibility, spreadsheets, patience, and countless hours behind the scenes. He created something truly special for all of us, and these are memories our children will carry with them for the rest of their lives.

Second, thank you to Lidia and her family and friends in Autol. They welcomed us with open arms and treated us like family from the moment we arrived. They shared their homes, their meals, their traditions, their stories, and their culture. They taught us about Rioja wines, mushroom farming, village festivals, and the rhythm of everyday life in northern Spain. They gave us an authentic experience that no guidebook, tour company, or hotel ever could.

And finally, thank you to everyone who’s followed along with these daily posts. I originally started writing them simply so our family would remember the little moments years from now, but knowing so many of you have been reading along has made it even more enjoyable.

Now, if you’ll excuse me, I have #1LittleSister to wrestle into bed before our 4:00 a.m. alarm goes off.

Thanks for coming along on this adventure. Until the next one.

~Steph

Travel Adventures July 30, 2026

Guest Post: Switzerland through the eyes of Evie

Today we got to Switzerland 🇨🇭 and I was so surprised when I figured out how cold it was compared to Spain 🇪🇸. At the airport we got 54€ at McDonald’s?!? We just got two large fries 🍟 and two large chicken nuggets 🐔.

When we got to the cabin we quickly found the bedrooms and decided who would sleep 💤 where. Lidia went insane when she saw the hot tub 🛁. For some reason there was two chess boards,one big one small.

At the end of the day we went to a pizzeria and there was a mini playground 🛝 for the kids. It is kinda confusing because some people speak English and some people speak Spanish and some people speak French and many others.

I was going to do this post of 1 day, but I didn’t have time.however, we went ziplining on the tallest zipline in the world.

I have like ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA HOW MANY CHAIRLIFTS WE WENT ON. It took a long time to get to the top of the mountain,but we had to wear GIGANTIC backpacks that only held 1 thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

At the end of the day,(4pm) we were going to go on the chairlift AGAIN TWICE but the person that ran the lift said that if we went up,we would have to not go back down on the lift. We were so glad he had told us,otherwise we’d have been stuck.

We will be sad to go home but we have had so much fun.

~Evie

Travel Adventures, Family & Friends July 30, 2026

Switzerland Day 16: Touching the Sky at Mont Fort

Today was all about going up.

Our destination was Mont Fort, one of the highest lift-accessible viewpoints in Switzerland, sitting at 3,330 meters (10,925 feet) above sea level. Getting there was an adventure in itself, requiring three different ski lifts.

We started in Siviez (1,730 m) on a classic four-person chairlift to Tortin (2,050 m). From there, we boarded a large gondola—big enough not only for passengers but also strollers, dogs, and mountain bikes—which carried us to Col des Gentianes (2,950 m). The final leg was a smaller gondola climbing to the summit of Mont Fort.

Of the three lifts, the old-fashioned chairlift was my favorite. Being out in the open, you could feel the cool alpine air, hear the rushing streams below, listen to cowbells echoing across the valley, and even catch conversations from hikers passing underneath. It was the longest ride and gave us plenty of time to soak it all in.

At one point we floated over a pasture full of cows, where two enormous bulls were locked in a battle while one particularly unlucky cow did her best to stay well out of the way. Nature’s version of reality television.

Cows with bells battle

One thing Switzerland does exceptionally well is efficiency. We bought our lift tickets once at the base, then simply scanned them at automated turnstiles before each lift. Every transfer was seamless.

Riding in the larger of the two Gondolas

Before boarding the final gondola, Lidia, #1BigSister, and I stopped to collect our zipline equipment. #1BigBrother and #1LittleSister were too young to participate, and Amir graciously volunteered to stay with them while the three of us tackled what had become the biggest adventure of the trip.

The Mont 4 Zipline claims several world records depending on how they’re measured, but what makes it unique is that it begins at one of the highest starting elevations of any zipline in the world. Watching people launch from the gondola below was intimidating enough that I briefly considered backing out. But I knew this was probably my one and only opportunity to do something like this, and I would regret letting fear win.

Before our scheduled launch, Amir wisely insisted we make time for the observation deck at the summit.

I’m so glad he did.

From the top, you can see the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc, the Grand Combin, and countless other Alpine peaks stretching in every direction. It is one of those places where photos simply cannot capture the scale.

The summit itself feels almost extraterrestrial.

The closest comparison I can make is that it felt like walking on the moon. There is almost no vegetation. Just rock, ice, glaciers, and patches of snow. Every now and then a lone butterfly would flutter by, leaving me wondering how on earth it had made its way to nearly 11,000 feet.

Adding to the surreal experience was the full-service (fairly fancy) restaurant perched near the summit. People casually enjoyed fondue, white wine, and long conversations while surrounded by a landscape that looked more like another planet than Earth. I couldn’t help wondering how they managed to get all the supplies up there. Gondola? Helicopter? Either way, it was impressive.

Then it was time.

Lidia went first.

#1BigSister followed.

I was last.

I had planned to capture all three launches using my Meta glasses. Unfortunately, I couldn’t hear the recording chime over the wind. Instead of starting new videos, I accidentally stopped previous recordings and completely missed their launches.

Thankfully, by the time it was my turn, I had finally figured it out and managed to record my own ride.

The initial drop off the tower is over almost instantly before gravity takes over. Within seconds you’re flying at speeds approaching 60 mph (100 km/h). I quickly understood why they recommend long pants and a jacket. Even on a warm day, the wind at that speed is surprisingly cold.

They also provide goggles if you don’t have sunglasses because opening your eyes at those speeds isn’t easy. And if you make the mistake of opening your mouth, your cheeks inflate like a squirrel storing acorns for winter.

On previous adventures—whether ziplining at Camp Seafarer or paragliding in Costa Rica—I had been brave enough to strike the dramatic “starfish” pose with my arms spread wide.

Not today.

Today I held onto those straps for dear life.

The arrival was wonderfully anticlimactic. The braking system automatically slows you before you reach the landing platform, making for a smooth, gentle finish.

What surprised me most was how peaceful it was.

From below, it looks terrifying.

From the line itself, it feels surprisingly serene.

I’m incredibly glad I took the leap.

Afterward, the rest of the family rode the gondolas down to meet us. Our plan had been to celebrate with burgers at the restaurant beside the zipline station, but it happened to be closed. So we descended one gondola ride to Tortin, where we found a wonderful Italian restaurant serving pizza, lasagna, soup, sandwiches, beer, cider, and wine. Pizza is always a safe bet with our crew, and the attached playground made it an even bigger success.

One thing we’ve noticed throughout Switzerland is that restaurants frequently include playgrounds, trampolines, or inflatable bounce houses. Families are clearly expected to linger.

At the same time, we’ve also noticed a cultural difference compared with Spain and Italy. In Spain and Italy, when one of our kids accidentally bumped into someone, it almost always led to smiles, funny faces, or affectionate interactions. Here in Switzerland, we’ve had several encounters where adults—particularly older adults—seemed noticeably less tolerant of even minor accidental bumps, including one on today’s gondola ride. It’s certainly not everyone, but it has been a noticeable contrast. Thankfully, the incredible playgrounds have more than made up for it from the kids’ perspective.

The drive back to our chalet was every bit as spectacular as the journey up.

Amir asked me to film a time-lapse as we descended the endless switchbacks. The winding mountain roads reminded both of us of driving through Crete several years ago. Amir has handled every mile of driving on this trip, and today he admitted these were the most challenging mountain roads he has ever driven. Coming from him, that got my attention. If he posts the finished time-lapse, I’ll come back and add it here because it’s worth seeing.

After our enormous Italian lunch, none of us were especially hungry for dinner. We simply picked at leftover cheese, sausage, bread, yogurt, and whatever else remained in the refrigerator at the chalet.

Tomorrow we leave the mountains behind.

We’ll pack up and begin making our way toward Zurich for the flight home, with one final stop planned at a Swiss chocolate factory along the way.

Before this trip, I assumed that after more than two weeks away I’d be counting the hours until we got home. We usually travel for only ten to twelve days, and this has been our longest family vacation ever.

Surprisingly, I don’t feel ready for it to end.

I think I easily have another few days of adventure left in me.

But tonight the plan is simple: one last soak in the hot tub, finish the laundry, pack the suitcases, and get a good night’s sleep before one final Swiss adventure awaits.

~Steph

Family & Friends, Travel Adventures July 29, 2026

Switzerland Day 15: Underground Lakes, Medieval Castles, and Sticker Shock

Today began underground.

Our first stop was the Lac Souterrain de Saint-Léonard, the largest navigable underground lake in Europe. If you’re planning a visit, reserve your tickets in advance. The boats have limited seating, tours often sell out, and with timed entry, there was virtually no waiting once we arrived.

The tour itself lasts about 30 minutes. We had dressed in layers after reading that the cave stays cool year-round, and we were glad we did. The contrast from the summer heat outside was immediate.

Our guide was just 17 years old and effortlessly conducted the tour in French, German, and English. What an impressive young man. Switzerland’s multilingual culture was on full display.

The underground lake stretches roughly 300 meters (about 1,000 feet) and was discovered in 1943 by Swiss speleologist Jean-Jacques Pittard. At the time, the water level was too high for boats to navigate the cave. Then, in 1946, an earthquake created cracks in the cave floor, lowering the water level just enough to allow small boats to pass. Sometimes nature rewrites the tourist guidebook.

Before leaving, we wandered through the gift shop, which was surprisingly charming and definitely worth a quick look.

From Saint-Léonard, it was just a 15-minute drive to Sion, a beautiful valley town watched over by two historic landmarks perched on neighboring hills.

On one hill stands Château de Tourbillon, a fortified castle built between 1297 and 1308 by the bishops of Sion. Originally constructed as both a military stronghold and the bishop’s residence, it commanded sweeping views of the Rhône Valley and served as a powerful symbol of the church’s authority. Although much of the castle was destroyed in a devastating fire in 1788, its stone ruins remain remarkably impressive, and ongoing restoration continues to preserve this piece of Swiss history.

Across the valley sits the Basilique de Valère, built between approximately 1100 and 1130. More fortress than church in appearance, the basilica served both religious and defensive purposes during the Middle Ages. It is home to one of the oldest playable pipe organs in the world, dating back to the 15th century, and has been an important pilgrimage site for centuries. Walking through its ancient stone walls, it’s impossible not to imagine the generations who climbed the same path long before us.

Amir was determined to tackle the climb to Tourbillon Castle despite the 90-degree heat and the altitude. The rest of us were a bit less ambitious. We settled into a café where the kids enjoyed ice cream while Lidia and I cooled off with Aperol Spritzes.

Eventually, Lidia and #1 Big Brother decided they wanted to join Amir after all. As Lidia wisely pointed out, she may never have another chance to visit this place. Opportunities like this aren’t meant to be watched from a café.

View of the valley from **Château de Tourbillon**

Meanwhile, the two girls and I finished our treats and opted for the gentler climb to Valère Basilica instead. With more shade and a slightly more forgiving ascent, it felt like the right choice for us.

As always, the climb proved worthwhile. Whether you conquer the castle or the basilica, the reward is the same: panoramic views of the valley, vineyards stretching into the distance, and the satisfaction of knowing you earned them. Everyone returned with huge smiles—and, of course, enough photos to prove their accomplishment.

On the drive home, we stopped at the grocery store to pick up dinner. One thing we’ve learned quickly is that Switzerland is breathtaking… and breathtakingly expensive. After paying 25 CHF (about $30) for each of two small plates of plain penne with tomato sauce for the kids at lunch, we unanimously decided tonight would be a home-cooked meal.

Amir fired up the outdoor grill, cooking two kinds of Swiss sausage, chicken satay, and a spread of delicious sides. We finished dinner with chocolate biscuits from the chocolate factory we’ll be touring before we leave—a little preview of what’s to come.

Tomorrow promises another adventure as we head to Mont Fort to ride one of the world’s longest and highest zip lines. At nearly 0.87 miles long and speeds approaching 60 mph, it should be equal parts breathtaking and terrifying.

I’ll let you know which one wins.

~Steph

Family & Friends, Food & Drink, Travel Adventures July 28, 2026

Day 14: Alarm Fatigue, Ski Lifts and Evolène

As an emergency physician, I’ve probably developed a little too much alarm fatigue. So when the fire alarm started blaring through the chalet at 6:30 a.m., my first thought wasn’t, We should evacuate. It was, Is this thing actually real?

Fortunately, it wasn’t.

Unfortunately, we were all awake.

Since sleep was off the table, I grabbed my camera and stepped onto the balcony. The early morning light over the valley was spectacular, and the Matterhorn was putting on a show. If you’re going to get jolted awake by a false alarm, this is about the best view you could ask for.

We walked up to Thyon Resort and found the ski lift called Trabanta which took us to the top of Thyon 2000. The kids were surprisingly brave on the ski lift. For the two youngest, it was their very first time ever getting on—and more importantly, getting off—a chairlift. They handled it far better than I ever did.

I couldn’t help but think about my own two legendary ski lift failures.

The first happened when I was three years old. I don’t remember which ski resort we were at, but I was skiing with my parents. I’d just climbed onto the lift when, apparently, I sat on a patch of ice. As the chair pulled away, my tiny three-year-old body slid right underneath the safety bar.

By nothing short of a miracle, one foot caught on the bottom of the chair, catching my boot strap, leaving me dangling upside down instead of plummeting to the ground below.

My mom later told me there was a retaining wall approaching that I was moments away from colliding with while everyone below frantically tried to get the lift operator’s attention. Somehow the lift was stopped in time, and—if family lore serves me correctly—my dad was able to reach down and haul me back into the chair.

Not exactly the confidence-building ski experience most toddlers have.

#1BibSister and I rode together, which turned out to be the perfect pairing. We were equally excited to finally see real Swiss cows up close—the kind with enormous bells hanging around their necks that we’d been hearing long before we ever spotted them. We also share a mutual appreciation for a well-timed selfie, so we managed to capture a few favorites while floating high above the valley.

As we approached the unloading area, however, we noticed the lift had stopped a few chairs ahead of us.

Turns out Amir and #1BigBrother couldn’t get their safety bar to lift, so the operator had to come help them before they could get off. #1LittleSister and Lidia disembarked without incident, and #1BigSister and I stepped off just fine.

So technically…the Louka family ski lift mishap count still belongs entirely to me.

Scooter “bikes” you can rent and ride down

At the top of the mountain, we took a short—but surprisingly steep—trail down to a little mountainside restaurant that looked like something out of a postcard. There were horse stables nearby, a trampoline, a bounce house, a giant bull statue, and panoramic views in every direction.

I ordered the cheese polenta, which was rich, creamy, and absolutely worth the hike.

After brunch, we continued our descent, stopping to finally meet the famous Swiss cows we’d admired from above. Their oversized bells echoed through the valley long before we reached them. Some had impressive curved horns, all were enormous, and surprisingly few seemed interested in staying behind fences. They were calm, friendly, and completely unfazed by a family of American tourists taking far too many pictures.

By this point, everyone was feeling the miles. Several of us had also come to the shared realization that Crocs are wonderful vacation shoes…right up until you decide to hike down a Swiss mountain.

As we reached the bottom near the chairlift, another childhood memory came rushing back—my second ski lift disaster.

Ironically, it had also happened in Switzerland.

I was about eight years old, traveling with my parents, my sister Kristin, and our family friends, the Wrights. It was my very first trip outside the United States. We had come to Switzerland for spring break to ski, and I remember thinking it was the greatest adventure imaginable.

One day, my parents went ahead while Kristin and I lined up for a T-bar lift—the kind that pulls skiers uphill while they remain on the snow. The bar tucks behind you, with one person on each side. In theory, it’s simple.

In reality, it requires both riders to be roughly the same height.

At eight years old and with my teenage sister beside me, we were…not.

Looking back, the contraption resembled equal parts ski equipment and an oversized IUD.

We didn’t make it very far before our balance gave out. As soon as we let go, the T-bar snapped back toward the cable at full speed and smacked me squarely in the back of the head.

Instantly there was blood everywhere.

Let me tell you—bright red blood against fresh white snow is a visual that sticks with you.

Meanwhile, my parents were already well up the mountain, completely oblivious to what had happened.

A kind stranger took off my skis, carried me like a toddler, and skied me all the way down to a small medical clinic. Remember, this was long before cell phones. Kristin and I had no identification, no money, and no way to contact anyone.

As luck would have it, the physician working in that tiny Swiss clinic was an American—from Pensacola, Florida, where we had once lived. We had never met him before, but after hearing our story he simply said, “Don’t worry about it. I’ll send your parents the bill.”

Two weeks after we got home to Virginia, the invoice arrived.

Total amount due: $40.

My dad happily paid it.

Kristin and I somehow found our own way back to the ski lodge, only to discover our parents and the Wrights sitting comfortably by the fire with their boots off, completely unaware that we’d made an unscheduled stop at Swiss urgent care. Looking back as an adult, I’m fairly confident they had enjoyed a drink or two while waiting.

Thankfully, everything turned out just fine.

Back at the chalet, I attempted an afternoon nap, but sleep wasn’t happening. Instead, #1LittleSister convinced me to join her in the hot tub.

I tried explaining that a hot tub is not a swimming pool—it’s more of a sitting pool.

She respectfully disagreed.

Within minutes she was splashing with Olympic-level enthusiasm while I abandoned any hope of relaxation and simply accepted that parenting, much like ski lifts, rarely goes exactly according to plan.

For dinner, we piled back into the car and made the 30-minute drive down the mountain to the charming village of Evolène, a postcard-perfect Swiss town nestled along the river. Dark wooden chalets lined the streets, each balcony overflowing with colorful flower boxes, while restaurants buzzed with the unmistakable energy of people lingering over good food and good conversation.

We wandered into the first restaurant we came across, Restaurant Au Mazot Chez Raymonde, which, as luck would have it, also happened to be the highest-rated on Google.

Stepping inside felt like stepping back in time.

The restaurant is more than 350 years old, complete with its two original stone fireplaces that still anchor the dining room today. The atmosphere was everything you’d hope for in an old Swiss mountain inn: cozy, bustling, a little noisy, delightfully unhurried, with the warmth of the fireplaces filling the room and the unmistakable aroma of melting raclette drifting through the air.

The woman tending the open hearth had worked there her entire life and was dressed in traditional Swiss clothing. Looking around at the centuries-old photographs and drawings hanging on the walls, it was remarkable to see that the women working there today are still wearing essentially the same attire as those who came generations before them.

Every meal at our table was excellent, but by this point the early 6:30 a.m. fire alarm, the mountain hike, and the fresh alpine air had finally caught up with all of us. We were ready to head back to the chalet, crawl into bed, and recharge for another adventure.