Costa Rica Day 4: Fishing (but not much catching) Charter and El Avión Restaurante

Today was an early start by design. We somewhat last minute booked a 5 hour deep sea fishing charter. You see, since our honeymoon fishing charter in Belize when we had a fruitful catch and ate for days (Thank you Terry’s Grill), we’ve tried to schedule a fishing trip whenever we travel. In Jamaica Amir and I were skunked when we tried to recreate our mega honeymoon catch. And we’ve been chasing that epic fishing adventure ever since.

We arrived at Marina Pez Vela at 6:45, allowing us time to hit the ATM for the all-cash experience, and potties for those of us afraid of the on-board bathroom experience.

Pre-seasickness

Our boat was the perfect size for six. The benchmark seat up front for all three kids perfectly. Unfortunately for #1BigSister, today was the day she learned about seasickness. It took just ten minutes for it to set in despite Zofran and recurrent instructions to focus on the horizon line.

Oddly enough the guys headed out directly towards a thunderstorm complete with a water spout in the distance. We were just about to question their judgment when they has us drop lines in and Amir immediately reeled in a 20” bonito.

Amir’s bonito 🐟

Unfortunately the weather (and lightening) demanded that we head elsewhere. And of course, there wasn’t a single nibble after that initial catch. Womp womp.

We still had fun though – to stave off the seasickness we stopped at a good swimming spot and allowed all the kids to jump in the water. Lidia went first to swim with them, then we traded out. Amir kept fishing and fishing and fishing.

As soon as #1BigBrother seamed to be getting the seasickness, we cut our losses and headed back to the marina about an hour early. The Captain was determined to not let us leave empty handed, but we knew it was time to pack it in.

The ReefExplorer is dual function

After fishing and not catching, we’d worked up an appetite. They made us sandwiches in the boat, but this crew was completely willing to eat twice. At the San Jose domestic terminal, we ran into one of #1BigSister’s classmates from back home. The mom mentioned they had reservations at El Avión, and suggested we check it out. Turns out it was only 14 minutes away from the marina.

El Avión ✈️

I’ve made it my mission to eat as much ceviche as possible. I’m ordering at each place we go, trying to gauge who has the best and how to recreate it at home.

The restaurant is built around a Fairchild C-123 cargo plane with a deep history in the 1980s Cold War Iran-Contra scandal. Once used by the CIA to supply weapons to the Nicaraguan Contras, it was abandoned in San Jose for years before being purchased for $3,000, transported to Manuel Antonio, and converted into a restaurant and bar in 2000. It’s now surrounded by a multi-level restaurant and bar.

El Avión Bar

The other bonus feature of El Avión is the built-in wildlife. Right when we got there we had our first sloth sighting of the trip, mom and baby together in a tree.

As we ate, the waiter called our attention to a macaw atop a tree in the distance. I’ve enjoyed the newer features of my iPhone camera this trip. It helps me zoom in on things I’d never be able to see on my own.

Climbing into the cockpit at El Avión

On the ride home, everyone except Amir fell asleep almost immediately. He dropped us off at the house and headed back down the mountain to the grocery store. Fishless, we needed a plan B for dinner, as well as some sunscreen and aloe after a long hot day.

West Coast Sunsets

Tomorrow Amir and Lidia have reservations for paragliding. I technically have a reservation as well but for the next day. Part of me wants someone else to do a test run first. The older I get, the more cautious I am. Ain’t nobody got time for broken ankles or road rash.

~Steph

Evie’s View of Costa Rica

Yesterday we met Reagan at the airport. Reagan has been telling me that she is going to be at Costa Rica and it really got me excited about going. Reagan is in my class and loves to finger crochet with me and some other girls. It made me so happy because we had been waiting for our second flight for a long time. Although that was fun we couldn’t talk for too long because Reagan and her family had a flight to catch. We hope to be able to get together and do something fun. I still want to ask her if she had to go on an airplane that had a propeller in the front and carried only a few people. 🤲🏻✈️🧶

 Today’s lunch has started out great. All of the drinks labeled sour are not sour but sweet!Dad and Ollie had soursop and it was delicious. I had a sour guava and it was very sweet and strong in flavor. Right now all we have had is appetizers but there are many yummy things that are cooking. I ordered some vegan chicken nuggets. Dad said that if I am a vegetarian for a week the whole family will be a vegetarian for a week. 🥘

 Dad just got us more juice and said that if we keep behaving than we can have as much juice as we want. We also noticed that there is a tiny island that is getting washed away by the water 💦 I don’t think that it is an island that people can live on because it is so small and hard to see. I got another sour guava and Ollie and dad got soursop again. 🥭🥝🥥🍋‍🟩🫐

Coconut Flan
Piña Colada
Fish Tacos

~Evie

Costa Rica Day 3: Jungle ATV Tour and Fuego Brewery

#1LittleSister is still on East Coast time. In fairness to her, the sun was already up by 5:30AM when she woke me up. I tried to get her to sit outside with me and listen to the sounds of the rainforest, but she was more into exploring Netflix. I’m going to work on that.

Sometimes early wake-ups are worth it

I left breakfast in the hands of Amir this morning. We stopped at the supermercado yesterday for some basics. We always pick an AirBnB with a full kitchen so we can eat at home 1-2 meals a day. This not only saves money but lets everyone slow down for a bit rather than being out and about all day.

Amir used the fresh eggs from our chickens along with potatoes to cook a torta española. We’d also done a fruit sweep at the grocery store, grabbing mangos, pineapple, papaya and mini bananas.

We had to be at Jungle ATV Tours in Uvita by 9AM. We rented three, 2-seater ATVs as all the adults wanted to drive. They offer 4-seater options and single rider ATVs as well. We booked the night before, but must have snagged the only three remaining vehicles.

First stop was Café Don Emilio, on top of the mountain, deep in the rainforest. When our guide first pointed at the top of the mountain, my reaction was “We’re going where?!” as it seemed too high to scale in our little dune buggies.

Don Emilio offered a choice between “strong” (first pour) verses “medium” coffee (everything after). There were no shots of syrup or choices of milk. Strong and medium. Black. That was it.

After coffee at Emilio’s, we set off on another ten minute drive to Bamboo Waterfall. We brought life jackets for the two youngest kids just because we don’t quite trust their swimming enough when you can’t see the bottom. I think the old lifeguard in me still lives strong. Add on to that a few bad cases as an ER doc… it’s a real fear of mine.

Fruit buffet after the waterfall

Overall Jungle ATV Tours was a five star experience. The guides were great, the ATVs well-maintained and the atmosphere jovial and adventurous. I’d say it’s a great activity for anyone over the age of three and without any back pain given the bumpy ride. It’s definitely disability friendly and offers something for everyone.

We were hungry after all that driving, so we set off for Fuego Brewery, 18 minutes north of Uvita. The place is a treetop restaurant and brewery, family friendly with great food but hit or miss service. Fortunately there are no hurries when on vacation.

This morning I walked down to the chickens with #1BigBrother and #1LittleSister. There’s a man who tends to the property here. I heard him this morning cutting brush and feeding the chickens. Apparently they get some free range time on Monday mornings because when we walked down the hill for a visit, they were all over the hillside.

For tomorrow morning, we’ve booked a deep sea fishing charter. We’re doing it early I. The week, hoping that if we yield a decent catch we can cook it all up for dinner the rest of the week. A throw back to Terry’s Grill from our honeymoon in Belize.

Poza Azul waterfall by our AirBnB

All the sun and swimming has us pretty tuckered out. I’m hoping for a 6AM wakeup rather than 5:30 by you know who.

~Steph

Costa Rica Day 2: Exploring Dominicalito

Everyone woke up at their usual 7am despite the time difference. #1BigBrother and #1LittleSister didn’t seem to understand there wasn’t an unlimited breakfast menu no matter how many times I told them.

Coffee poolside

This morning we took a quick peek at Playa Dominicalito at the base of our mountain. There was no one else there aside from a 70 year old man with tobacco aged skin and a few abandoned fishing boats.

Playa Dominicalito

As soon as we arrived, #1BigBrother spotted a ship with my namesake. I had to take a picture with her, despite her not looking so sea-worthy.

The great ship Stephanie

At the beach we found all sorts of interesting discoveries. A beach with no one on it is rare – offering a chance to be the first to look through treasures washed upon the shore.

We discovered unique shells, hermit crabs ranging from microscopic to bite-you size. Someone got covered in black sand despite the parental warnings to avoid sandiness and soaking as we planned for lunch just a bit later at a spot less than a quarter mile away.

We ate lunch at La Parcela, an open-air seafood restaurant with a fresh menu combining local fruits and a touch of Asian influence. We ordered ceviche, bruschetta and edamame to start. I opted for the fish tacos knowing it would be local catch instead of imported.

Parking lot of La Parcela

After lunch we stopped at the grocery store to get some essentials. As usual, we tend to eat half our meals out and half wherever we are staying. AirBnBs always offer great kitchens, giving us the flexibility to save money by cooking for ourselves.

We enjoyed some great pool time just before a two-hour thunderstorm took hold. We cooked some chicken, rice & beans, avocado and fresh bread for tonight. Simple yet got the job done.

Tomorrow we’ve rented ATVs to drive in a tour around Uvita. We’ll pair up one adult to one kid. We always enjoy an extreme rental on vacation. Hoping this will fit the bill.

The power goes out during thunderstorms

~Steph

Costa Rica Day 1: Getting there keeps getting easier

No matter the destination , at the start of our trips, one of the kids always asks, “Are we there yet?” when just 20 minutes into our journey. “No sweetie pie, not quite. Just close your eyes.”

With the recent TSA delays at airports across the US thanks to yet another government shutdown, we left an hour earlier than usual, weary of long lines at Dulles. That meant a 3AM wakeup for Amir, Lidia and me, and 3:30 for the kids.

IAD to SJO

#1BigBrother asked Dad for yet another rundown of the size and shape of the airplanes, and #1LittleSister inquired about snacks. “Is there a chef on the airplane?” – referring to the flight attendants bringing meals and drinks by request.

We had an easy flight from Dulles to San Jose. The TSA delays never materialized, and our flight arrived in Costa Rica 20 minutes ahead of schedule. The next leg of our journey was a domestic flight from San Jose to Quepos on the southwest coast. Amir researched driving rather than flying, but drive times can vary anywhere from 2-5 hours depending what reference you are using.

The tarmac at San Jose Domestic Terminal

If you decide to do the same, know that you have to leave the international airport entirely and go outside to access the domestic terminal. As soon as we saw the tiny prop planes, I remembered what domestic air travels is like in Central America. Somewhere around 1999, during a trip to Guatemala with my mom and sister, I flew on one of these planes. They are straight out of an Indian Jones movie, propellers, open cockpit and all.

At this point I was hoping we were well above those mountain tops

Our flight to Quepos was delayed more than an hour, but then only 20 minutes in the air, we were at our destination, Dominicalito. Amir rented a 4WD SUV expecting one of us would need to taxi to Alamo to pick it up, but when we arrived in Quepos, Felix, from Alamo, was there with our vehicle ready.

Minimalism in aviation AKA Quepos Airport

We arrived at our AirBnB just an hour later than anticipated. Our host unlocked the gate, introducing us to our new home for the week. We (and by we I really mean Amir) spent a few weeks comparing options in this region of Costa Rica before settling on this home with stunning views, an infinity pool, and rainforest gardens complete with monkeys playing in the morning.

My bathtub routine got an upgrade this week

The kids immediately wanted to swim. Lidia was a champ and got in with them immediately. I can never resist the need to unpack before I can relax and have fun.

I should probably explain who Lidia is as she’s making her debut in our travel blog. Lidia, from Spain, is our fourth au pair, joining our family last August after we finished two amazing years with Ale (Mexico). Lidia has done her share of traveling the US since joining us, but this is our first trip abroad together all six of us.

#1BigSister enjoying the swing outside our room

Our plans tomorrow only include finding yummy breakfast in town and perhaps a trip to the grocery store. Otherwise we plan to just swim and explore this 5 acre property. The 15 chickens at the bottom of the hill are sure to be a hit with our crowd.

~Steph