Today we ventured farther west from Autol, driving about 45 minutes through the beautiful countryside of La Rioja to Barranco Perdido, a one-of-a-kind dinosaur adventure park. The drive alone was worth the trip, winding through vineyards, rocky cliffs, and rolling hills that somehow become more beautiful around every bend.
This region of Spain is famous for its incredible concentration of dinosaur fossils. Millions of years ago, the landscape was a muddy, wet environment rather than the dry, rocky terrain it is today. Those muddy conditions perfectly preserved the footprints of dinosaurs that once wandered here, along with seashells and countless other fossils from an ancient world. It’s amazing to think that a place now surrounded by vineyards was once home to dinosaurs.
El Barranco Perdido offers an interesting mix of activities. Visitors can purchase a day pass that includes several swimming pools with water slides, plus a choice between a paleontology experience or an aerial adventure park with climbing platforms, bridges, and zip lines.
Unfortunately, we arrived a little later than planned, so we had to choose carefully how to spend our afternoon. We asked the kids whether they wanted the educational paleontology experience or the adventure park.
Adventure park won by a landslide.
We started at the swimming pools, which turned out to be the perfect way to escape the afternoon heat. The water was cool and refreshing, the pools were surprisingly uncrowded, and everyone had room to spread out. Amir and I couldn’t resist racing down the water slides before retreating to lounge chairs while the kids happily swam for hours.
One feature that really impressed me was how thoughtfully the park was designed for families. They know that adults actually want to enjoy the ropes course too, so they offer a supervised mini adventure camp for younger children who aren’t quite tall enough for the larger course.
Our youngest couldn’t have cared less that she didn’t speak the same language as the other children. Within seconds she was happily climbing a miniature rock wall, digging for dinosaurs in a giant sandbox, decorating a dinosaur mask, and participating in an all-out water blaster battle. She barely even waved goodbye before disappearing into the fun.
That left the four of us free to tackle the aerial adventure course.
#1BigSister on the zip line
After a quick lesson on harnesses, carabiners, and safety procedures, the staff took one look at my completely inappropriate footwear—gold leather flip-flops—and my crossbody purse.
Apparently neither was a deal breaker.
“Just sign here.”
It felt like they had learned a little something from the American legal system. Sign the waiver, acknowledge every possible risk, and off you go.
To my surprise, I wasn’t nearly as terrible at the course as I expected. Amir and our oldest had done something similar before, but this was my first experience navigating ropes, swinging bridges, and elevated platforms. I figured out the carabiner system quickly and managed to clip and unclip my safety lines without incident. Despite the flip-flops, I never slipped, fell, or found myself dangling helplessly in front of my family.
I decided not to push my luck by climbing the vertical rock wall that led to the zip-line tower. Some risks simply aren’t worth taking while wearing vacation sandals.
The giant carpet slide at the top of the mountain
I did, however, brave the giant enclosed carpet slide. The climb to the top rewarded us with spectacular views across the surrounding valley, and the ride back down was every bit as fun as the kids promised it would be.
By the time we finished, everyone was happily exhausted.
View from atop the entrance to the slide
On the drive back to Autol, we stopped by Doner Kebab for an easy takeaway dinner before returning to the house. We ate outside overlooking the pool, enjoyed one last evening swim, packed our suitcases, and said goodbye to Daniel, Lidia’s boyfriend, who had welcomed us so warmly during our stay.
Tomorrow we leave La Rioja behind and head east toward Peñíscola for the next chapter of our Spanish adventure. While we’re excited to see somewhere new, it’s hard to believe our time in Autol is already coming to an end. This little town—and especially Lidia’s wonderful family—has given us a glimpse of Spain that few tourists ever get to experience, and it’s something we’ll never forget.
One of the things I’ve loved most about our time in Autol is that every day has introduced us to another tradition that has quietly shaped life here for generations. Today, that tradition was mushrooms.
This morning, a friend of Lidia’s family welcomed us to his mushroom farm for an intimate tour. Like Lidia’s dad, he specializes in growing portobello mushrooms, while many other local farmers cultivate several different varieties. Walking through the cool, earthy growing rooms was fascinating. There is so much more science, patience, and craftsmanship behind mushroom farming than I ever realized.
Mushrooms for miles
He explained how the industry has changed over the past couple of decades. Twenty years ago, mushroom farming was a boutique business, with customers willing to pay a premium for high-quality, locally grown mushrooms. As Spain has faced more difficult economic times, demand has softened and margins have become much tighter. It would be easy to cut corners in pursuit of lower costs, but that’s not the path many of these family farmers have chosen.
Like so many traditions we’ve seen here in La Rioja, they continue to do things the way they’ve always believed they should be done—using organic, environmentally friendly practices and refusing to sacrifice quality simply to make a little more money. There was something deeply admirable about that quiet commitment to craftsmanship over convenience.
After our tour, we headed to Lidia’s family’s casilla, a countryside retreat much like the one where we’re staying. These little houses aren’t extravagant, but that’s precisely the point. They exist as places to gather—to cook, to eat, to swim, to share a bottle of wine, and to spend unhurried hours with family and friends. It’s a lifestyle centered around people rather than schedules.
The kids immediately claimed the pool, splashing and laughing while the adults settled into long conversations around the outdoor table. We sampled both red and white Rioja wines, along with a regional liqueur unique to this area. The kids, meanwhile, were perfectly content with ice cream cones in hand and another afternoon in the water.
Los cocineros
Back at our house that evening, Amir and Lidia transformed the mushrooms we had picked just hours earlier into dinner. Fresh portobello mushrooms sautéed simply, crusty bread from the neighborhood supermarket, fresh blueberries, and good company made for one of the most satisfying meals of the trip. Nothing was fancy, yet everything tasted exceptional because it was fresh, local, and shared together.
It wasn’t a day packed with famous landmarks or busy sightseeing. There were no long drives or crowded attractions. Instead, today reminded me that some of the richest travel experiences come from simply living alongside the people who call a place home.
It was slow. It was simple. And, perhaps because of that, it was exactly the day I didn’t know I needed.
I can still hear it echoing up the hillside as I write this. It’s after one in the morning, we’re finally back at the house, and the celebration in Autol is showing no signs of slowing down. Firecrackers explode every few minutes, car horns blare in celebration, and from somewhere down in the village comes another chorus of “¡Olé, olé, olé, olé!” The entire town is absolutely electric.
We joined what felt like the whole village in the plaza to watch the World Cup Final on a giant outdoor screen. The younger crowd claimed the center of the square, carrying chairs out into neat rows facing the television. The older generation—and those of us who have apparently graduated into that category—settled around the perimeter at café tables, sharing food, drinks, conversation, and the perfect warm summer evening while keeping one eye on the match.
Spain was magnificent.
Still, I couldn’t shake that familiar anxiety that comes with soccer. They controlled possession, created chance after chance, and looked like the better team for most of the match. But soccer has a cruel way of punishing dominance. One counterattack. One defensive mistake. One lucky bounce. After watching Spain dictate the pace for so long, I kept waiting for Argentina to steal a goal out of nowhere and turn the entire game upside down.
Thankfully, that moment never came.
Spain stayed disciplined, kept Argentina at bay, and when the final overtime whistle blew, the plaza erupted. Complete strangers were hugging, flags appeared from every direction, people were dancing in the streets, and the cheers seemed to roll through the valley. It was one of those unforgettable moments where you realize you’re witnessing something much bigger than a sporting event. We weren’t just watching Spain win a championship—we were watching an entire country celebrate together.
The kids were completely captivated from start to finish. Then halftime brought an unexpected surprise. The mayor invited every child under the age of ten onto the stage for a raffle. Naturally, #1BigSister somehow managed to draw the winning ticket. She walked away carrying an enormous plastic cone overflowing with chips, candy, and every imaginable snack. Some people simply have that kind of luck. If there’s a prize to be won—even when the odds are entirely random—it somehow finds its way into her hands.
Now we’re trying to convince three very excited children that it’s bedtime, which feels like an impossible task when the whole country is celebrating outside their windows. Sleep can wait, at least in their minds.
Tonight, Autol isn’t just a small village in La Rioja. It’s the center of a nationwide celebration, and we’re incredibly grateful that, for one unforgettable evening, we got to be part of it.
Yesterday was all about embracing the slower pace of life in Spain. Knowing we had a late night ahead of us, we intentionally kept the day relaxed, enjoying nature, good food, and time together before one very special celebration.
Octopus and squid for miles
Our first stop was the local grocery store, where we gathered everything we needed for a picnic: fresh crusty bread, jamón, local cheeses, fruit, and cold drinks. It’s amazing how something as simple as a picnic can feel like a feast when you’re surrounded by beautiful scenery.
We drove to El Piqueso y La Piquesa, a park known for its extraordinary rock formations. Over thousands of years, wind and rain have carved the sandstone into towering pillars that seem almost too unusual to be natural. A small river winds through the park, adding to the peaceful atmosphere. We smiled as we watched groups of young men floating downstream on inner tubes—proof that enjoying a lazy summer afternoon on the water isn’t just an American pastime. It looked remarkably like tubing on the James River back home in Richmond.
After exploring the park and enjoying our picnic, we returned to the house. The kids spent some time swimming before everyone attempted a traditional Spanish siesta in preparation for the evening festivities. Some of us were more successful than others. I’m looking at you, #1LittleSister.
Climbing wall at the park
That evening we celebrated Jesús and Raquel’s 25th wedding anniversary at the family vineyard, Viñedos Ruíz Jiménez, and “celebration” hardly seems like a big enough word.
The gardens had been transformed into a beautiful outdoor venue with wine barrel tables, elegant lighting, and a dance floor ready for the night’s festivities. Friends and family gathered to celebrate not just a marriage, but a life built together over twenty-five years.
The evening began with heartfelt speeches filled with gratitude, love, and laughter. One of the most touching moments came when Lidia surprised her parents by singing a beautiful love song in Spanish. Even without understanding every lyric, it was impossible not to feel the emotion behind it. It was a gift from daughter to parents that everyone present will remember.
The food seemed endless. Every few minutes another tray of delicious tapas would appear, each one somehow better than the last. #1LittleSister quickly discovered the jamón carving station and became one of its most enthusiastic customers. Before long, she’d made friends with the gentleman expertly slicing paper-thin pieces of ham.
Fresh prawns
As the sun disappeared, glow sticks and glowing necklaces were handed out, the music got louder, and the dance floor filled with people of every generation. There is something wonderful about watching grandparents, parents, teenagers, and little children all celebrating together.
One of the highlights of the evening was presenting Jesús and Raquel with our gift. This was entirely Amir’s idea, and he absolutely nailed it. He designed and created matching black leather motorcycle jackets with a custom patch on the back commemorating their 25th wedding anniversary and symbolizing the strength and unity of their family. Their reaction was priceless. The surprise, excitement, and genuine appreciation on their faces made all the planning worthwhile.
By the time we headed home, it was around one o’clock in the morning. The younger crowd continued the celebration into town, but this middle-aged emergency physician happily called it a night. Twenty years ago, I might have joined them. These days, sleep is a pretty wonderful gift.
Day 6
This morning, we met Jesús and Raquel in the village around noon. They knew the festival schedule by heart and insisted we couldn’t miss the children’s foam party. We had no idea what to expect, but it quickly became one of the kids’ favorite experiences of the trip.
In an open plaza near the hospital, a giant foam machine transformed an area roughly the size of a basketball court into a mountain of fluffy white bubbles. Within minutes, the children disappeared into a sea of foam, laughing as they ran, jumped, dove, and made “snow angels” in the middle of a Spanish summer. They piled the bubbles as high as they could, covered themselves from head to toe, and naturally made it their mission to bury their dad in foam as well.
The man running the foam machine clearly enjoyed entertaining the crowd. Armed with a garden hose, he would spray children who wanted to rinse off, but he seemed to have even more fun catching unsuspecting kids—and a few unsuspecting adults—with surprise blasts of cool water. Every unexpected soaking was met with squeals of laughter, followed by children racing back for more.
It’s these little village traditions that have made this trip so special. They’re not the kinds of experiences you’ll find in a travel guide, but they’re the moments our children will probably remember long after they’ve forgotten the names of famous landmarks.
Tonight promises to be another memorable evening. At 6:00, we’ll be cheering on Lidia as she performs saxophone with her friends in a community concert. Afterward, we’ll stay in the village square with what feels like the entire town as Spain takes on Argentina in the World Cup. Watching such a huge match on a giant screen, surrounded by passionate Spanish fans in the middle of a village festival, feels like one of those experiences you simply can’t recreate. I have a feeling tonight will be one for the memory books.
As we pulled up to Lidia’s parents’ house in Autol, they were already outside waiting for us, waving both arms enthusiastically in the air with the kind of joy that instantly makes you feel wanted. Before we had even unloaded the van, we were greeted with hugs, smiles, and an excitement that couldn’t be faked.
Candy and Estrella
Inside, they welcomed us into their home as if we’d been friends for years. The kids were surprised with thoughtful gifts, while Amir and I were each handed an ice-cold Estrella beer—a perfect way to toast the beginning of our stay. We met Lidia’s grandparents, toured the family home, and immediately began to understand where Lidia gets her warmth and generosity.
From there, they took us to the home where we’ll be staying for the next few days. Perched high on a hill overlooking Autol, it belongs to close family friends who graciously share it when they’re away. Lidia explained that this is common here. Many families who live in the compact apartments and narrow streets of town have a second home in the surrounding countryside, where there’s room to gather, a swimming pool, and space to enjoy long summer evenings.
View from the garden at the pool house
The view was breathtaking. Green and gold vineyards rolled across the valley below, framed by rugged cliffs and dotted with olive groves that have likely stood here for generations. As the sun began its slow descent, the entire landscape glowed in shades of amber and gold.
Dinner was simple, unpretentious, and absolutely delicious. We shared bowls of patatas fritas, olives stuffed with sardines, sharp local cheese, paper-thin slices of jamón, fresh bread, and a chilled white Rioja wine—the first white Rioja I’ve ever tasted. Like so many things on this trip, it challenged what I thought I already knew.
The conversation around the table was an adventure all its own. I stumbled my way through Spanish whenever I could. Amir relied on his Meta glasses to translate conversations from Spanish into English, with surprisingly mixed results. And whenever technology or my high school Spanish failed us, Lidia effortlessly bridged the gap, translating with patience and a smile. Somehow, between imperfect Spanish, artificial intelligence, and a wonderful human interpreter, we all managed to understand one another.
As we watched the sun disappear behind the vineyards, I found myself thinking that the most memorable moments of travel are rarely the ones listed in guidebooks. They’re the evenings spent around a table with people who open their home, share their food, laugh with you through language barriers, and make you feel less like a visitor and more like family.
There is a Spanish word—sobremesa—that describes the time spent lingering around the table after a meal, talking and enjoying one another’s company. Tonight was my first real experience of it, and I can’t think of a better introduction to life in this little corner of La Rioja.
A tour of the Rioja winery
This morning, we were given a behind-the-scenes look at the heart of Lidia’s family’s livelihood: their winery.
Pablo, Lidia’s cousin, welcomed us and took us into the vineyards that have been in their family for generations. Along with his brother, Javier, and their father, he now runs the winery, carrying forward a legacy while thoughtfully embracing the future.
Pablo explaining the history of espumante
Standing among rows of vines stretching across the hillsides, we learned that making wine in Rioja is about far more than simply growing grapes. It is a region defined by tradition, regulation, and an unwavering commitment to quality. Production is intentionally limited, ensuring that only the highest quality grapes become Rioja wine. Every authentic bottle carries an official Rioja label and its own unique identification number, certifying its origin and authenticity. That protected designation allows growers to command a higher price—not because they produce more, but because they produce less, and they produce it exceptionally well. It was fascinating to see how an entire region has chosen to prioritize excellence over volume.
At the same time, Pablo showed us that tradition and innovation are not mutually exclusive. The family is continually exploring organic and environmentally friendly farming practices. One of the highlights for Oliver was meeting—and getting to drive—the vineyard’s bright blue electric robot. The compact machine quietly moves through the rows of vines without producing emissions, helping reduce the vineyard’s carbon footprint while performing tasks that would otherwise require larger equipment.
Perhaps the biggest surprise of the morning was learning that the family still considers the phases of the moon when caring for the vines. Pablo explained that as the lunar cycle changes, the movement of water and nutrients within the plants changes as well, influencing when certain vineyard tasks are best performed. Amir and I exchanged glances—we had never heard of such a thing. Whether discussing centuries-old traditions or cutting-edge technology, it became clear that every decision is made with incredible intention.
What struck me most wasn’t simply the wine itself. It was the pride. The vineyard isn’t just a business; it’s a family story. Every generation has added its own chapter, honoring the work of those before them while preparing something even better for those who will come next. Watching Pablo speak about the land, it was impossible not to admire the passion he has for preserving both his family’s legacy and the future of Rioja winemaking.
The gardens at the vineyard
After returning to the pool house, the afternoon slowed into one of those perfect summer days. The kids spent hours in the swimming pool while the adults relaxed in the shade. Meanwhile, Amir and Lidia’s father, Jesús, embarked on a culinary adventure together. Armed with their Meta glasses and real-time translation, they somehow managed to cook an incredible paella.
Tomorrow promises to be another unforgettable day. We’ll return to the vineyard—not for work this time, but for celebration. Lidia’s parents are celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary, and family and friends will gather in the vineyard gardens we saw today. If the warmth we’ve experienced over the past two days is any indication, it’s sure to be an evening filled with laughter, good wine, and the unmistakable feeling of family.
A Village Comes Alive
After an afternoon siesta back at the pool house, we headed into Lidia’s village just as it was coming alive. The streets had been closed to traffic, and there was an unmistakable buzz in the air as everyone prepared for the weekend festival. Families filled the plazas, children darted through the streets, and every café seemed to spill onto the sidewalks.
Running with the vaquitos
We found a small café, ordered cold Estrella beers, and settled in to wait for one of the evening’s traditions: the vaquitos. Unlike the famous fighting bulls, these are small bulls with no horns, making them a much safer introduction to the sport. A temporary ring had been set up in the middle of town, and nearly every child in the village seemed eager to test their courage. They perched on the fence surrounding the ring, taking turns jumping inside to tease the vaquito before scrambling back over the rails at the last possible second. It was equal parts bravery, chaos, and laughter.
The only real excitement came from outside the ring. A woman watching the festivities suddenly collapsed. Without hesitation, Amir rushed over to help until the ambulance arrived. She briefly lost consciousness again while he was assisting her, but thankfully she recovered and was eventually okay. It was a reminder that sometimes the biggest drama isn’t the one everyone is watching.
With the excitement behind us, we wandered over to the carnival. The kids tried a fishing game using long poles with hooks to catch floating rubber duckies, each marked with points on the bottom. Every one of them walked away proudly clutching a prize. But the biggest hit of the night was a trampoline attraction where they were harnessed to giant bungee cords and launched high into the air, soaring, bouncing, and even attempting flips. #1BigSister declared it the best part of the entire evening.
As darkness settled over the village, we found ourselves at the aptly named Dublin Bar, a lively gathering spot with a playground for the kids and plenty of outdoor seating for the adults. The contrast made us smile—children climbing and laughing while parents lingered over food and drinks well into the night. We finally sat down for dinner… at 10:00 p.m. In Spain, that’s perfectly normal. For us, still operating somewhere between American and Spanish time, it felt incredibly late.
Tomorrow morning may come far too early, but tonight we experienced exactly what makes small-town Spain so special: traditions passed down through generations, children with endless energy, neighbors filling the streets, and a community that seems to come alive only after the sun begins to set.
TeamLouka 