Category: Food & Drink

Costa Rica Day 7: Horseback riding on the beach & a visit to Alturas Wildlife Sanctuary

Somehow I woke up and this is the last full day of our trip. I feel like I was just telling #1BigBrother not to worry, that we had plenty of time left. Se la vie.

#1BigSister in El Ratón

There were just three people in our group for the 8:30am ride with Rancho La Merced in Uvita. The other person was a French woman in her 70s who spoke no English or Spanish. If she wanted a quiet, serene outing, she certainly got it.

Our guide took us through the farms and forest to reach the shore at La Playa Hermosa. The beach was empty, save for an occasional jogger.

Horseback riding in La Playa Hermosa in Uvita

The entire outing lasted two hours start to finish. The youngest allowable riders are 7, but I think the right 5 year-old could handle this trip. Lidia isn’t a huge fan of animals, and Amir was just 5 pounds over the weight limit. That meant #1BigSister and I were alone for our adventure.

After horseback riding, we drove back to the house to meet up with the rest of the crew. We ate leftovers for lunch and swam for an hour before rallying to head to the wildlife sanctuary.

The sanctuary houses rescued wildlife incapable of surviving in the wild. a surprising number of the rescued animals are abandoned or confiscated pets. In Costa Rica it’s essentially illegal to have any animal as a pet aside from cats and dogs.

The sanctuary is adjacent to a hotel and restaurant. We popped in for a bite after our tour. I wasn’t crazy hungry and just ordered some appetizers. That was supposed to be my meal, but the caprese salad disappeared with me only snagging one bite.

Of course I also ordered the ceviche. Lidia and I both agrees it may be the best one yet. One things for sure, I need to up my lime content in my ceviche next time I make it.

Tomorrow we head back home. I can’t even believe the days flew by so quickly. Fortunately we have a three week trip to Spain and Switzerland scheduled for the summer that helps lessen the blow of returning to the real world.

~Steph

Costa Rica Day 4: Fishing (but not much catching) Charter and El Avión Restaurante

Today was an early start by design. We somewhat last minute booked a 5 hour deep sea fishing charter. You see, since our honeymoon fishing charter in Belize when we had a fruitful catch and ate for days (Thank you Terry’s Grill), we’ve tried to schedule a fishing trip whenever we travel. In Jamaica Amir and I were skunked when we tried to recreate our mega honeymoon catch. And we’ve been chasing that epic fishing adventure ever since.

We arrived at Marina Pez Vela at 6:45, allowing us time to hit the ATM for the all-cash experience, and potties for those of us afraid of the on-board bathroom experience.

Pre-seasickness

Our boat was the perfect size for six. The benchmark seat up front for all three kids perfectly. Unfortunately for #1BigSister, today was the day she learned about seasickness. It took just ten minutes for it to set in despite Zofran and recurrent instructions to focus on the horizon line.

Oddly enough the guys headed out directly towards a thunderstorm complete with a water spout in the distance. We were just about to question their judgment when they has us drop lines in and Amir immediately reeled in a 20” bonito.

Amir’s bonito 🐟

Unfortunately the weather (and lightening) demanded that we head elsewhere. And of course, there wasn’t a single nibble after that initial catch. Womp womp.

We still had fun though – to stave off the seasickness we stopped at a good swimming spot and allowed all the kids to jump in the water. Lidia went first to swim with them, then we traded out. Amir kept fishing and fishing and fishing.

As soon as #1BigBrother seamed to be getting the seasickness, we cut our losses and headed back to the marina about an hour early. The Captain was determined to not let us leave empty handed, but we knew it was time to pack it in.

The ReefExplorer is dual function

After fishing and not catching, we’d worked up an appetite. They made us sandwiches in the boat, but this crew was completely willing to eat twice. At the San Jose domestic terminal, we ran into one of #1BigSister’s classmates from back home. The mom mentioned they had reservations at El Avión, and suggested we check it out. Turns out it was only 14 minutes away from the marina.

El Avión ✈️

I’ve made it my mission to eat as much ceviche as possible. I’m ordering at each place we go, trying to gauge who has the best and how to recreate it at home.

The restaurant is built around a Fairchild C-123 cargo plane with a deep history in the 1980s Cold War Iran-Contra scandal. Once used by the CIA to supply weapons to the Nicaraguan Contras, it was abandoned in San Jose for years before being purchased for $3,000, transported to Manuel Antonio, and converted into a restaurant and bar in 2000. It’s now surrounded by a multi-level restaurant and bar.

El Avión Bar

The other bonus feature of El Avión is the built-in wildlife. Right when we got there we had our first sloth sighting of the trip, mom and baby together in a tree.

As we ate, the waiter called our attention to a macaw atop a tree in the distance. I’ve enjoyed the newer features of my iPhone camera this trip. It helps me zoom in on things I’d never be able to see on my own.

Climbing into the cockpit at El Avión

On the ride home, everyone except Amir fell asleep almost immediately. He dropped us off at the house and headed back down the mountain to the grocery store. Fishless, we needed a plan B for dinner, as well as some sunscreen and aloe after a long hot day.

West Coast Sunsets

Tomorrow Amir and Lidia have reservations for paragliding. I technically have a reservation as well but for the next day. Part of me wants someone else to do a test run first. The older I get, the more cautious I am. Ain’t nobody got time for broken ankles or road rash.

~Steph

Costa Rica Day 3: Jungle ATV Tour and Fuego Brewery

#1LittleSister is still on East Coast time. In fairness to her, the sun was already up by 5:30AM when she woke me up. I tried to get her to sit outside with me and listen to the sounds of the rainforest, but she was more into exploring Netflix. I’m going to work on that.

Sometimes early wake-ups are worth it

I left breakfast in the hands of Amir this morning. We stopped at the supermercado yesterday for some basics. We always pick an AirBnB with a full kitchen so we can eat at home 1-2 meals a day. This not only saves money but lets everyone slow down for a bit rather than being out and about all day.

Amir used the fresh eggs from our chickens along with potatoes to cook a torta española. We’d also done a fruit sweep at the grocery store, grabbing mangos, pineapple, papaya and mini bananas.

We had to be at Jungle ATV Tours in Uvita by 9AM. We rented three, 2-seater ATVs as all the adults wanted to drive. They offer 4-seater options and single rider ATVs as well. We booked the night before, but must have snagged the only three remaining vehicles.

First stop was Café Don Emilio, on top of the mountain, deep in the rainforest. When our guide first pointed at the top of the mountain, my reaction was “We’re going where?!” as it seemed too high to scale in our little dune buggies.

Don Emilio offered a choice between “strong” (first pour) verses “medium” coffee (everything after). There were no shots of syrup or choices of milk. Strong and medium. Black. That was it.

After coffee at Emilio’s, we set off on another ten minute drive to Bamboo Waterfall. We brought life jackets for the two youngest kids just because we don’t quite trust their swimming enough when you can’t see the bottom. I think the old lifeguard in me still lives strong. Add on to that a few bad cases as an ER doc… it’s a real fear of mine.

Fruit buffet after the waterfall

Overall Jungle ATV Tours was a five star experience. The guides were great, the ATVs well-maintained and the atmosphere jovial and adventurous. I’d say it’s a great activity for anyone over the age of three and without any back pain given the bumpy ride. It’s definitely disability friendly and offers something for everyone.

We were hungry after all that driving, so we set off for Fuego Brewery, 18 minutes north of Uvita. The place is a treetop restaurant and brewery, family friendly with great food but hit or miss service. Fortunately there are no hurries when on vacation.

This morning I walked down to the chickens with #1BigBrother and #1LittleSister. There’s a man who tends to the property here. I heard him this morning cutting brush and feeding the chickens. Apparently they get some free range time on Monday mornings because when we walked down the hill for a visit, they were all over the hillside.

For tomorrow morning, we’ve booked a deep sea fishing charter. We’re doing it early I. The week, hoping that if we yield a decent catch we can cook it all up for dinner the rest of the week. A throw back to Terry’s Grill from our honeymoon in Belize.

Poza Azul waterfall by our AirBnB

All the sun and swimming has us pretty tuckered out. I’m hoping for a 6AM wakeup rather than 5:30 by you know who.

~Steph

Costa Rica Day 2: Exploring Dominicalito

Everyone woke up at their usual 7am despite the time difference. #1BigBrother and #1LittleSister didn’t seem to understand there wasn’t an unlimited breakfast menu no matter how many times I told them.

Coffee poolside

This morning we took a quick peek at Playa Dominicalito at the base of our mountain. There was no one else there aside from a 70 year old man with tobacco aged skin and a few abandoned fishing boats.

Playa Dominicalito

As soon as we arrived, #1BigBrother spotted a ship with my namesake. I had to take a picture with her, despite her not looking so sea-worthy.

The great ship Stephanie

At the beach we found all sorts of interesting discoveries. A beach with no one on it is rare – offering a chance to be the first to look through treasures washed upon the shore.

We discovered unique shells, hermit crabs ranging from microscopic to bite-you size. Someone got covered in black sand despite the parental warnings to avoid sandiness and soaking as we planned for lunch just a bit later at a spot less than a quarter mile away.

We ate lunch at La Parcela, an open-air seafood restaurant with a fresh menu combining local fruits and a touch of Asian influence. We ordered ceviche, bruschetta and edamame to start. I opted for the fish tacos knowing it would be local catch instead of imported.

Parking lot of La Parcela

After lunch we stopped at the grocery store to get some essentials. As usual, we tend to eat half our meals out and half wherever we are staying. AirBnBs always offer great kitchens, giving us the flexibility to save money by cooking for ourselves.

We enjoyed some great pool time just before a two-hour thunderstorm took hold. We cooked some chicken, rice & beans, avocado and fresh bread for tonight. Simple yet got the job done.

Tomorrow we’ve rented ATVs to drive in a tour around Uvita. We’ll pair up one adult to one kid. We always enjoy an extreme rental on vacation. Hoping this will fit the bill.

The power goes out during thunderstorms

~Steph

Solo Mom trip Day 4: Zero Plans (!)

As I mentioned yesterday, I’d had hopes of snorkeling while here. Well, sometimes reality takes hold and changes the plan. Thanks to some sunburn and highs of 69 degrees and 25 mph winds, I opted NOT to go on the 7 hour snorkeling and boating adventure. One important lesson parenting has taught me is “Quit while you are ahead.”

The sun finally came out at 4pm

Since I decided to skip the snorkeling and poolside, I planned my day around food. I hadn’t yet explored the buffet, not for any good reason except I didn’t know where it was yet. I hunted it down for lunch as online reviews gave high praise.

Pro tip (not medical advice): if you skip breakfast, you have more room for lunch. The buffet spread was vast and international including ceviche, sushi and even hotdogs.

After lunch I stopped by The Vine Bar to sit down and formulate a game plan. Little did I know but my “plan” turned out to be having drinks and fun with two amazing Hungarian women, tequila shots and all. At 4 they decided they should probably eat lunch, so we parted ways and I headed for a walk.

Toes in the sand

4 pm turned out to be the first time today the sun made its presence. A bit disappointing but my reality was with a bit of sunburn, I wasn’t going to be lounging poolside catching rays anyway. I walked for an hour and headed back inside to regroup.

The resort has daily activities including live music. I sat and watched a saxophonist, pianist and a Broadway singer while sipping a cold glass of Sauvignon Blanc. She seemed to appreciate the applause, while I found myself pining for home, thinking of our mini concerts Lidia, our au pair, treats us to.

For dinner I chose the Italian restaurant, Nebbiolo. I was able to be seated and immediately, but was not rushed to make a choice. Time here is in a nice balance – not like some countries where things seem to happen too slowly or in a rushed way, here time is less intrusive.

Alas, tomorrow I head home. I won’t lie and say I wouldn’t mind another day here, but I feel sufficiently recharged and with some renewed perspective. Esta es la razón que viajamos, ¿no?

-Steph