Category: Food & Drink

Denmark Day 5: Reffen & Freetown Christiania via Family Bicycle

The one thing I had earmarked as a must-do during my research for the trip was to rent a bicycle to help us explore the lesser traveled paths here.

At Kings Garden with our Premium Family Bike

There are two big bike rental companies with friendly websites that allow online reservations and booking prior to arrival. Depending when you plan on visiting, they may or may not all be booked. We rented through Copenhagen Bicycles, but Christiania Bicycles is also supposed to be good. Plus they offer electric versions. They also both offer free helmets for kids.

#1Toddler enjoyed ringing the bell on our bike

First we headed in search of food. Amir had scoped out a unique place called Reffen, which can best be described as an artist’s baby: shipping container construction project meets food truck rodeo with a pinch of farmer’s market and street art. I unfortunately didn’t capture it well in photos today as I was chasing around you know who. Amir and I decided we need this in Richmond.

One of many mini wine bars at Reffen

The Italian stall at Reffen

Fresh whole mackerel cleaned and grilled right in front of you

Amir ordered freshly grilled mackerel, I had a fresh Italian baguette with prosciutto, mozzarella and pesto, and the little one ate a gourmet corn dog.

The whole area by the water has embraced the shipping container movement

After Reffen we (and by we I mean Amir) pedaled to Freetown Christiania – an “off the grid” sort of town with artists, few laws, a good amount of drugs and some beautiful scenery. The only downside – you can’t take pictures there.

The ride from Christiania back to Town is full of quiet moments

After Christiania, we made our way from the waterside inland towards the King’s Garden where the 2019 Jazz Festival is taking place while we are here. We stopped by the playground first. Side note: #1Toddler didn’t even want to wear her helmet at first, but then she insisted on wearing it all day.

After the playground, we made our way to the rose gardens of Rosenborg Castle. There’s a moat around the castle as with most important structures here in Copenhagen, but this one features friendly fish and ducks.

For our last hour in the garden, we decided to take it easy and just relax in the grass and enjoy the airy new age jazz playing all around us.

As we headed back to return our rented bicycle, I tried to snap a few photos and a video to capture the ride. For some reason today my photo skills weren’t on par with my norm – but that didn’t spoil the fun.

Total route biked: 6.2 miles!

Still smiling even after all that hard work

After returning our bike, we stopped in Nyhavn at Vaffelbageren for soft serve ice cream. Oh my oh my was it delicious. We ended up eating it all and canceling our dinner reservations.

Instead, we opted for a charcuterie dinner with red wine in the roof top terrace of our hotel. Total cost: $30.

Tonight we are going to rest up for the big wedding tomorrow. Nadja told me dancing won’t even begin until midnight, so I need all the energy I can get!

Denmark Day 4: LEGOLAND!

Yesterday we travelled by train (x 2) and bus from Copenhagen to Billund, the site of LEGOLAND. There’s an option to fly here from Copenhagen, but it still means a train or bus to the airport, then another bus to the park. Renting a car is reportedly the easiest option, but incredibly expensive (like many things here).

So we opted to test out the robust public transportation system here. Not the easiest trip ever, but two thumbs up for a national public transit system that lets you seamlessly “swipe in” with one access card for the whole country and across all modes. No separate fares for trains, buses or the metro. Also friendly if you want to bring your bike or stroller.

Specific cars are designated for bikes and strollers, plus free WiFi!

Last night we stayed at Hotel Svaden, roughly 700m from the park entrance, but 1/4 the cost of a night at the official LEGOLAND Hotel. It served its purpose.

The park opens at 10am daily. We stopped for breakfast at an Espresso House, right across the street from the park prior to entering and avoided breakfast at a pricey all-you-can-eat buffet.

Rain ponchos thankfully come in adult and kids sizes

The only negative about today – the weather. Today was 62 degrees and rainy, the entire day. As Amir said, “what are we going to do, go back to Copenhagen?” So in Louka style, we made the most of it.

Admittedly, the yellow ponchos were pretty fun. I now feel bad for the multitude of people I’ve made fun of over the years at various theme parks. Desperate times call for desperate measures.

I’m pretty sure the LEGOLAND website can do a better job showcasing everything the park has to offer in much greater detail, so I’m just going to drop some photos and small details.

Nyhavn a la LEGO
Nyhavn in real life

It was fun seeing the sites of Denmark built intricately in hundreds of thousands of LEGOs, particular scenes like Nyhavn which we’d visited just two days earlier.

After riding on a Jungle Safari, we headed to Duplo land, a playground designed just for kids under six. With a hospital, an ambulance and 3 slides, it was everything this team wanted.

Someone didn’t feel like driving the ambulance

Next we headed to the carousel to ride a horse. The ride allows a parent to stand in the middle and chaperone a little one, which is nice at our age.

She went once with her MaMa then immediately wanted a turn with DaDa

After the carousel, the rain had intensified, so we went in search of an indoor activity and landed at Atlantis, the aquarium. There’s a short film before entering the aquarium itself, but you are quickly greeted by sharks, clown fish, stingrays and various other colorful creatures.

LEGO sculptures live under water with the sea life

A little damp, but everyone is still smiling
LEGO submarine and a stingray

After the aquarium we met and hugged a beautiful princess and indulged in strawberry ice cream at the request of #1Toddler.

She also tried cotton candy or “candy floss” for the first time

We would have stayed a tad longer, but #1Toddler eventually passed out in the stroller.

No question what was Amir’s favorite

We took the bus-train-train route back to our hotel and exhausted, enjoyed a nice dinner in the warmth and convenience of our hotel restaurant.

The train is always the scenic route

Buses run every 30 minutes
These $3 IKEA stacking cups are a must have for out & about

Some photo odds & ends:

Cape Canaveral, FL

The Royal Palace, Copenhagen
Everyone was tired by the end

Denmark Day 3: LEGO House & MINI CHEF

Today we took the train to Billund, Denmark, the home of THE Legoland. It requires a bit of finagling to get to from Copenhagen – 2 or 3 train connections plus a short stint on a bus. Amir thankfully is a great navigator on all our trips. He can look at a route ahead of time (when internet is accessible) and navigate across an entire country from just Google Maps screenshots.

We dedicated today to travel with the goal of getting to Billund with time to check in to our hotel, grab some dinner at MINI CHEF, and unwind for a big day tomorrow.

LEGO House, Billund, Denmark
Hostess Stand at MINI CHEF

Jeff told us about MINI CHEF last night. Here’s how it works:

  • 1. Pick one block of each color to build your meal. Kids get an extra special surprise yellow block.
  • The “menu” at MINI CHEF
    The meal options

    2. Stack your blocks in the tray and load it into the computer to create your meal.

    3. The computer detects your creation and little LEGO chefs build your meal.

    4. A few minutes later, it appears on a conveyor belt where two friendly robots then deliver it to you.

    5. Bring your meal back to your table and enjoy!

    Don’t fret – they have adult beverages as well.

    The whole dining area has activities for the kids within reach. Books, little LEGOs, big LEGOs, there’s lots to keep the kids busy while dinner is prepared.

    MINI CHEF is located inside LEGO House, which features a coffee shop, LEGO store and six zones of fun inside the main portion of LEGO House. You don’t need to buy a ticket to LEGO House to be able to eat at MINI CHEF or the cafe.

    Making a mess is encouraged

    LEGO friends in the lobby

    There’s a small LEGO store located inside LEGO House. All the favorites are available there including StarWars, LEGO Movie, Harry Potter and more.

    Tomorrow morning we’ll walk a short distance from our hotel, Hotel Svanen, to Legoland to spend the day.

    Denmark Day 2: Exploring Copenhagen & World Cup

    We went to bed last night at 9pm exhausted and with #1Toddler just having napped half the day. Needless to say we weren’t expecting much, if any, sleep.

    We awoke at 11am, (yup, you read that right) despite the sun peering into our room since 4am. 14 hours of blissful sleep on hotel sheets. Our toddler parent dreams come true.

    As mentioned yesterday, we packed a tad too lightly for the cool weather, so the goal today was shopping, then hot dogs and if energy – culture and World Cup. We accomplished all of the above with a little help from H&M, a friendly street vendor and Jeff & Nadja, our hosts.

    On our way to the shopping district, we passed through Nyhavn, a pedestrian friendly street lined with cafes, musicians and people pausing to converse and enjoy the water. You can take a canal tour if you prefer the view from the water.

    You can never go wrong with a train set
    Building table
    A pretty serious “play” fire station

    We always look out for toy stores along our walk. They provide a needed break from the bustle of pedestrians, cars and bikes (omg the bikes) of the city scene.

    Biking is the preferred mode of transportation
    “Park n Ride” equivalent outside the metro station. These are commuter bikes, not rentals.

    We were lucky enough to catch up with Jeff & Nadja after a quick stop at the National Museum. It houses a Children’s Museum within as well as a fantastic exhibit on the Mongolian Empire. #1Toddler’s take on the museum: “Too much scary.” (Lots of skeletons and masks on display).

    Unfortunately we got there just an hour before closing and didn’t get to see all it had to offer. It’s conveniently located right next to Ørsteds Park which has multiple swings, slides and a sandbox perfect for antsy toddlers.

    Ørsteds Park

    After H&M, we enjoyed our obligatory street food adventure with a local hotdog.

    #1Toddler approved.

    I ordered mine with mustard, crunchy onions and special sauce.

    We met Jeff & Nadja at a local food market called Torvehallerne. We ordered duck sandwiches x 4 paired with local, unfiltered brown ale drafts.

    After dinner we walked to a pub that Jeff was fairly sure would be airing the Women’s World Cup match. USA vs England is a house divided for us and a match not to be missed under any circumstances.

    Two pitchers of Carlsberg, one order of very bad nachos and a victory for the good old USA, and we called it a night. Tomorrow we head to THE Legoland.

    Backing the engine into the fire station after a call

    Denmark Day 1: Traveling with a Toddler is Tiring

    Phew. We made it. And I say that not because #1Toddler was bad or misbehaving in any way, but because forgot how those Transatlantic flights afford you roughly 2 hours of sleep and packing for 10 days (including fancy attire for a wedding) yields more luggage than our usual.

    We’ve travelled to Copenhagen to celebrate the wedding of Amir’s roommate from undergrad, Jeff, also a groomsman in our wedding. Born of Danish blood but in the United States, Jeff moved to Denmark just a few years after finishing college. He met Najda here and never looked back. Having been here In Copenhagen less than 24 hours, I can already see why.

    #1Toddler has lots of “my stuffs” to keep occupied

    The drive to Dulles was thankfully uneventful, as was the flight from Dulles to Heathrow. No mid-flight cardiac arrests this time. As we entered that same elevator where we met the man who would later die and the woman who would become his widow, I paused and wondered how she has been coping in the 6 months since our paths crossed.

    We love connecting in Heathrow ever since discovering their “soft play” areas in multiple terminals. The one thing a toddler really needs after a 6.5 hour transatlantic flight is to run around and let loose. Ask any airport staff member to direct you if you can’t find your way.

    Soft Play area, Terminal 2, Gate A12
    Making Friends at Hamleys Toy Store

    The flight from Heathrow to Copenhagen was a tad more taxing for all. Someone cried for the last hour of the flight. Not naming names.

    As we’d boarded the flight at Dulles earlier, #1Toddler insightfully asked us, “ears hurt again?” – clearly remembering her last transatlantic flight for our trip to Greece. We both marveled at how she could maintain memories and make connections between similar events 6 months apart. She’s only two, and I can barely remember yesterday.

    Exploring Kastellet Fortress

    As we like to do whenever arriving to a new city, we dropped our bags at our hotel and went for a casual walk to explore. We walked the “moats” of Kastellet, a 17th century fortress. I use quotes because the water surrounding this fortress used to serve a defensive purpose, but now filled with lily pads and swans, it’s what draws visitors closer.

    Amir has scouted Google Maps for a casual place to stop and grab dinner. Wherever we go, we are always on the hunt for the best casual seafood restaurant with tons of atmosphere. Near home, it’s Merrior in Topping, VA. In Copenhagen it’s Toldbogen. Complete with outdoor space by the water and an inviting interior that mixes salt water fishing with industrial and techno, there’s tons of visual interest. Amir ordered a meat sampler and I the fish n chips. Both came served on a bed of perfectly salted string French fries and with freshly plucked raw veggies draping over top. Simple preparation of delicious ingredients allowed all the natural flavors to speak for themselves.

    Fish n chips, Toldbogen
    Vibrant atmosphere indoors and out
    Locally brewed beers are served in these large, thick round glasses

    Tomorrow we have some utilitarian plans. I realized I forgot to pack my Rothys last minute as I’d left them out to dry (hint: they are machine washable flats). So tomorrow I’m on the hunt for walking flats. Oh darn.

    I also packed a bit too lightly – we left 95 degree weather in Virginia and arrived to a crisp, lovely 65 degrees here. Daytime will be fine, but the evenings command light layers. To the shopping district I go!

    Entryway of Babette Hotel
    Passing the 20 minutes before check-in with drinks at the bar

    Our small balcony with Firenze-like views
    Hotel sheets are the best!