Costa Rica Day 3: Jungle ATV Tour and Fuego Brewery

#1LittleSister is still on East Coast time. In fairness to her, the sun was already up by 5:30AM when she woke me up. I tried to get her to sit outside with me and listen to the sounds of the rainforest, but she was more into exploring Netflix. I’m going to work on that.

Sometimes early wake-ups are worth it

I left breakfast in the hands of Amir this morning. We stopped at the supermercado yesterday for some basics. We always pick an AirBnB with a full kitchen so we can eat at home 1-2 meals a day. This not only saves money but lets everyone slow down for a bit rather than being out and about all day.

Amir used the fresh eggs from our chickens along with potatoes to cook a torta española. We’d also done a fruit sweep at the grocery store, grabbing mangos, pineapple, papaya and mini bananas.

We had to be at Jungle ATV Tours in Uvita by 9AM. We rented three, 2-seater ATVs as all the adults wanted to drive. They offer 4-seater options and single rider ATVs as well. We booked the night before, but must have snagged the only three remaining vehicles.

First stop was Café Don Emilio, on top of the mountain, deep in the rainforest. When our guide first pointed at the top of the mountain, my reaction was “We’re going where?!” as it seemed too high to scale in our little dune buggies.

Don Emilio offered a choice between “strong” (first pour) verses “medium” coffee (everything after). There were no shots of syrup or choices of milk. Strong and medium. Black. That was it.

After coffee at Emilio’s, we set off on another ten minute drive to Bamboo Waterfall. We brought life jackets for the two youngest kids just because we don’t quite trust their swimming enough when you can’t see the bottom. I think the old lifeguard in me still lives strong. Add on to that a few bad cases as an ER doc… it’s a real fear of mine.

Fruit buffet after the waterfall

Overall Jungle ATV Tours was a five star experience. The guides were great, the ATVs well-maintained and the atmosphere jovial and adventurous. I’d say it’s a great activity for anyone over the age of three and without any back pain given the bumpy ride. It’s definitely disability friendly and offers something for everyone.

We were hungry after all that driving, so we set off for Fuego Brewery, 18 minutes north of Uvita. The place is a treetop restaurant and brewery, family friendly with great food but hit or miss service. Fortunately there are no hurries when on vacation.

This morning I walked down to the chickens with #1BigBrother and #1LittleSister. There’s a man who tends to the property here. I heard him this morning cutting brush and feeding the chickens. Apparently they get some free range time on Monday mornings because when we walked down the hill for a visit, they were all over the hillside.

For tomorrow morning, we’ve booked a deep sea fishing charter. We’re doing it early I. The week, hoping that if we yield a decent catch we can cook it all up for dinner the rest of the week. A throw back to Terry’s Grill from our honeymoon in Belize.

Poza Azul waterfall by our AirBnB

All the sun and swimming has us pretty tuckered out. I’m hoping for a 6AM wakeup rather than 5:30 by you know who.

~Steph

Costa Rica Day 2: Exploring Dominicalito

Everyone woke up at their usual 7am despite the time difference. #1BigBrother and #1LittleSister didn’t seem to understand there wasn’t an unlimited breakfast menu no matter how many times I told them.

Coffee poolside

This morning we took a quick peek at Playa Dominicalito at the base of our mountain. There was no one else there aside from a 70 year old man with tobacco aged skin and a few abandoned fishing boats.

Playa Dominicalito

As soon as we arrived, #1BigBrother spotted a ship with my namesake. I had to take a picture with her, despite her not looking so sea-worthy.

The great ship Stephanie

At the beach we found all sorts of interesting discoveries. A beach with no one on it is rare – offering a chance to be the first to look through treasures washed upon the shore.

We discovered unique shells, hermit crabs ranging from microscopic to bite-you size. Someone got covered in black sand despite the parental warnings to avoid sandiness and soaking as we planned for lunch just a bit later at a spot less than a quarter mile away.

We ate lunch at La Parcela, an open-air seafood restaurant with a fresh menu combining local fruits and a touch of Asian influence. We ordered ceviche, bruschetta and edamame to start. I opted for the fish tacos knowing it would be local catch instead of imported.

Parking lot of La Parcela

After lunch we stopped at the grocery store to get some essentials. As usual, we tend to eat half our meals out and half wherever we are staying. AirBnBs always offer great kitchens, giving us the flexibility to save money by cooking for ourselves.

We enjoyed some great pool time just before a two-hour thunderstorm took hold. We cooked some chicken, rice & beans, avocado and fresh bread for tonight. Simple yet got the job done.

Tomorrow we’ve rented ATVs to drive in a tour around Uvita. We’ll pair up one adult to one kid. We always enjoy an extreme rental on vacation. Hoping this will fit the bill.

The power goes out during thunderstorms

~Steph

Costa Rica Day 1: Getting there keeps getting easier

No matter the destination , at the start of our trips, one of the kids always asks, “Are we there yet?” when just 20 minutes into our journey. “No sweetie pie, not quite. Just close your eyes.”

With the recent TSA delays at airports across the US thanks to yet another government shutdown, we left an hour earlier than usual, weary of long lines at Dulles. That meant a 3AM wakeup for Amir, Lidia and me, and 3:30 for the kids.

IAD to SJO

#1BigBrother asked Dad for yet another rundown of the size and shape of the airplanes, and #1LittleSister inquired about snacks. “Is there a chef on the airplane?” – referring to the flight attendants bringing meals and drinks by request.

We had an easy flight from Dulles to San Jose. The TSA delays never materialized, and our flight arrived in Costa Rica 20 minutes ahead of schedule. The next leg of our journey was a domestic flight from San Jose to Quepos on the southwest coast. Amir researched driving rather than flying, but drive times can vary anywhere from 2-5 hours depending what reference you are using.

The tarmac at San Jose Domestic Terminal

If you decide to do the same, know that you have to leave the international airport entirely and go outside to access the domestic terminal. As soon as we saw the tiny prop planes, I remembered what domestic air travels is like in Central America. Somewhere around 1999, during a trip to Guatemala with my mom and sister, I flew on one of these planes. They are straight out of an Indian Jones movie, propellers, open cockpit and all.

At this point I was hoping we were well above those mountain tops

Our flight to Quepos was delayed more than an hour, but then only 20 minutes in the air, we were at our destination, Dominicalito. Amir rented a 4WD SUV expecting one of us would need to taxi to Alamo to pick it up, but when we arrived in Quepos, Felix, from Alamo, was there with our vehicle ready.

Minimalism in aviation AKA Quepos Airport

We arrived at our AirBnB just an hour later than anticipated. Our host unlocked the gate, introducing us to our new home for the week. We (and by we I really mean Amir) spent a few weeks comparing options in this region of Costa Rica before settling on this home with stunning views, an infinity pool, and rainforest gardens complete with monkeys playing in the morning.

My bathtub routine got an upgrade this week

The kids immediately wanted to swim. Lidia was a champ and got in with them immediately. I can never resist the need to unpack before I can relax and have fun.

I should probably explain who Lidia is as she’s making her debut in our travel blog. Lidia, from Spain, is our fourth au pair, joining our family last August after we finished two amazing years with Ale (Mexico). Lidia has done her share of traveling the US since joining us, but this is our first trip abroad together all six of us.

#1BigSister enjoying the swing outside our room

Our plans tomorrow only include finding yummy breakfast in town and perhaps a trip to the grocery store. Otherwise we plan to just swim and explore this 5 acre property. The 15 chickens at the bottom of the hill are sure to be a hit with our crowd.

~Steph

Solo Mom trip Day 4: Zero Plans (!)

As I mentioned yesterday, I’d had hopes of snorkeling while here. Well, sometimes reality takes hold and changes the plan. Thanks to some sunburn and highs of 69 degrees and 25 mph winds, I opted NOT to go on the 7 hour snorkeling and boating adventure. One important lesson parenting has taught me is “Quit while you are ahead.”

The sun finally came out at 4pm

Since I decided to skip the snorkeling and poolside, I planned my day around food. I hadn’t yet explored the buffet, not for any good reason except I didn’t know where it was yet. I hunted it down for lunch as online reviews gave high praise.

Pro tip (not medical advice): if you skip breakfast, you have more room for lunch. The buffet spread was vast and international including ceviche, sushi and even hotdogs.

After lunch I stopped by The Vine Bar to sit down and formulate a game plan. Little did I know but my “plan” turned out to be having drinks and fun with two amazing Hungarian women, tequila shots and all. At 4 they decided they should probably eat lunch, so we parted ways and I headed for a walk.

Toes in the sand

4 pm turned out to be the first time today the sun made its presence. A bit disappointing but my reality was with a bit of sunburn, I wasn’t going to be lounging poolside catching rays anyway. I walked for an hour and headed back inside to regroup.

The resort has daily activities including live music. I sat and watched a saxophonist, pianist and a Broadway singer while sipping a cold glass of Sauvignon Blanc. She seemed to appreciate the applause, while I found myself pining for home, thinking of our mini concerts Lidia, our au pair, treats us to.

For dinner I chose the Italian restaurant, Nebbiolo. I was able to be seated and immediately, but was not rushed to make a choice. Time here is in a nice balance – not like some countries where things seem to happen too slowly or in a rushed way, here time is less intrusive.

Alas, tomorrow I head home. I won’t lie and say I wouldn’t mind another day here, but I feel sufficiently recharged and with some renewed perspective. Esta es la razón que viajamos, ¿no?

-Steph

Solo Mom Trip, Day 3: Mexico instead of St Maarten

Today was my first full day here in Cancun. I arrived after dark last night, so I wasn’t able to appreciate much of the resort until daylight.

I took my time getting out of bed and may have spend a full hour in the dual head rain shower before lathering myself in sunscreen and climbing into one of three bathing suits I brought.

I sat next to a nice couple from Canada – they both work in healthcare, so we had some good conversation about the state of affairs in both the US and Canada. We tried not to talk too much shop but sometimes you can’t help it.

Despite dousing myself in SPF50, I still managed to get too much sun today. The older I get, the harder it is to protect my pale self – I’m starting to see why old ladies like big hats and linen outfits.

This afternoon I went to the spa for a hydrosubmersion experience and massage. I didn’t exactly know what a hydrosubmersion experience was but figured the surprise might be part of the fun. Turns out you sit in a dry sauna for 10 minutes, a steam room for 10 minutes, then do a full-body submersion in 11 degree water à la a Polar Plunge. Immediately after that, you enter the last pool which is not quite a hot tub. It was fun to try, but the massage was what I was really there for.

There are six restaurants at the resort offering everything from local Mexican fare to Asian Fusion. I ordered lunch poolside – three Shrimp Tacos which was just the right amount of food for me. I was happy to see they weren’t serving “American-sized” portions. For dinner, I’d decided yesterday to try Dragons, the Asian Fusion spot. It’s casual dress, but with a menu spanning Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese and Chinese or maybe a mix of all of the above.

I think the sun wiped me out a bit. I found myself back in the room at 7:30pm, in Jammie’s again after another hour-long shower.

I booked a snorkeling trip for tomorrow but am now reconsidering given the sun exposure. It may be safer to hang back here at the resort in the shade rather than on a boat where I’ll have less flexibility to dodge the sunshine. I’m going to sleep on it and decide in the morning.

-Steph