Author: Steph Louka

Stephanie is an EMS Physician and Life-Member of the Virginia Beach Volunteer Rescue Squad. She lives in Richmond, VA with her husband Amir.

Argentina Day 11: Iguazú Falls – the largest waterfall in the world

No toucans this morning, but we did enjoy an excellent breakfast at the hotel and stuck to our schedule of heading to Iguazú Falls at 9am.

Las dos hermanas (the two sisters)

The park is very well organized with trails marked for the handicapped or stroller-toting like us. Amir planned our route and we set off. First stop, the green trail on the lower loop to stop and see Las Dos Hermanas, two side by side falls tucked away off the main path to the big falls.

Metal walkways guide you through the park

We next headed deeper into the park to get a glimpse of Salto Bossetti and his neighbors.

Crossing paths with Coati

The trek to the next site was easy in terms of endurance and dotted with beautiful views.

Along the lower loop on the way to Salto Bossetti
Salto Bossetti
Salto Bossetti

We next backtracked to the train station we’d passed along the way. The train takes you up to Garganta del Diablo (throat of the devil), the largest view of the falls in the park.

If you want to take the train, it’s free with your admission to the park, but you must go to the ticket desk and secure train tickets for each person in your party. We were initially confused as to why, but the tickets are printed with a departure time, ensuring only enough tickets are issued for each train ride and it is not overcrowded with disappointed tourists.

The train ride itself is fairly short and not packed with huge scenery (it’s all relative here), so don’t be disappointed if you get seated in the middle or backwards.

We encountered a few critters on the way to La Gargancha del Diablo, including snakes, monkeys and coati.

Mama monkey with a baby on her back
Huge catfish in the river below the catwalks
Just a small snake
Golden Silk Orbweaver Spider
Coati wrestling match

You walk the catwalks for roughly a third of a mile to reach the platforms for viewing the falls.

Almost there…

The platform overlooking La Gargancha del Diablo was quite crowded, even with park staff controlling the flow. We still managed to navigate the stroller through.

Panoramic view of La Gargancha del Diablo
Sound on for full effect

On the way back to the train, we passed a woman who appeared to be having some sort of diabetic emergency as her family members were checking her blood sugar. A few minutes later, a park ranger blowing a whistle sped by us on the platform with the woman barely conscious in wheelchair, with an ambulance awaiting them at the train station.

Frutilla (strawberry) popsicles for everyone on the train ride back
Making more friends on the way back

In total we spent about 6 hours at Parque Iguazú, drank 6 bottles of water, ate 4 popsicles, saw 7 monkeys, and exhausted ourselves. It was an amazing morning and afternoon. We headed back our hotel ready to hit the pool.

Lobby of hotel Loi Suites
Wedding guests enjoy hours of poolside cocktails
Splashing in the shallow pool
Bouncy bridges connect the different areas of the hotel
Daddy/daughter time in the infinity pool
Nighttime view of the pool and hotel restaurant
Nighttime bridges

We’re currently awaiting room service for a late dinner. #1Toddler finally ran out of gas and crashed at 7:15. We’re enjoying the peace and quiet, so there’s no way we were going to wake her to go out to eat.

Tomorrow we fly back to Buenos Aires to spend just one more night there and catch our flights back home to Virginia. It’s hard to believe yet another adventure is coming to an end. We have plans to go to New York in August 2020 as a team of 4, but no international travel on the books as of yet. I supposed I better cross some other hurdles first.

-Steph

Argentina Day 10: Traveling from Bariloche to Iguazú Falls

We were sad to leave our AirBnB in Bariloche. It gave us so many beautiful delights – majestic views, rainbows, sunsets.

Sunset on our last night in Casa Hygge, Bariloche

I awoke at 6am to ensure everything was packed and clean prior to our planned 8am departure for the airport. If you’ve never stayed at an AirBnB before they each have different checkout procedures depending on owner specifications.

At Casa Hygge we just needed to load the dishwasher, take out the trash and a neighbor stopped over to pickup the key. Some AirBnBs utilize a lockbox or keypad system; the two so far on this trip have both used old fashioned keys.

Bariloche Airport is small, just 8 gates. We checked in easily, again thanks to priority treatment of those traveling with small children as well as those who are pregnant.

Waiting to board at Bariloche Airport (BRC)

There’s no direct flight from Bariloche to Iguazú Falls, so we are connecting in Buenos Aires. Each leg is about two hours.

We’ve booked more traditional hotels for the last two stops on our trip. Our hotel in Iguazú came with transfers for each of us to and from the airport which was convenient.

I had the window seat for the flight into Iguazú. Jungle as far as the eye can see. It reminded me of Tikal, Guatemala.

Iguazú airport is small but modern. Our bags were on the belt before we got to baggage claim, and we quickly found our driver. All in all, very efficient and easy.

At some point this morning when packing up, we realized we only had 4 more diapers for three more days. Vincente, our driver, was kind enough to stop by the supermercado on the way from the airport to the hotel to allow Amir to run in and buy some.

The entire ride to our hotel, Loi Suites, #1Toddler begged to go swimming.

“Can I put my swimming costume on?”

“Can I go down big slide?”

“Can I splash splash?

We dropped our thing in the room, coated everyone in sunscreen and DEET, and made a B-line for the pool.

The hotel also has a swing set just outside our wing. This did not go unnoticed by you know who.

We ate dinner at the hotel restaurant partially for convenience, but also because it was well-rated online.

View of the pool from the restaurant

We also might have already spotted the largest beetle ever seen. Even David Attenborough would be moved. I couldn’t get a photo though before a French couple sat down. They probably would have found it awkward if I were maneuvering under their dinner table to photograph a (fortunately dead) megabeetle.

Tomorrow morning at 8am we are going to watch the hotel staff feed the toucans just before we eat breakfast and head to Iguazú Falls at 9. Vincente said to expect to spend 6 hours at the falls, so we are heading to bed early to rest up.

-Steph

Virgin Piña Colada
Tiny Planet from Tacul Beach

Argentina Day 9: Hiking to Tacul Beach

We awoke this morning, finished watching “Cars” and picked a hiking trail for the day. Tacul Beach, 1.5 hours and rated medium, seemed like a great fit.

Scenic views from the trail to Tacul Beach

The website billed the terrain as “flat,” so given our success two days ago in reaching Sendero de los Arrayanes, we set forth with our CitiMini stroller in tow.

It wasn’t long before the terrain turned bumpy with rocks and roots crisscrossing the trail. We decided the only way to continue forward was to leave the stroller behind and for Amir to carry #1Toddler on his shoulders.

Considering and dreading the trek back, we almost turned around before reaching the beach. That surely would have been a mistake.

Crystal clear water at Tacul Beach

As soon as we arrived, #1Toddler scooped up a handful of pebbles and shouted “Splash! Splash! Splash!” I’m not sure what it is about throwing rocks into water, but she could do it for hours.

Rock throwing champion

We lucked out with the weather. No rain today and 60 degrees. The cools temps didn’t stop some young Argentinian women from bikini sunbathing though. Sorry, no photos.

We made it!

We spent about an hour at the beach, resting, throwing rocks, getting our toes wet and polishing off some leftover chocolate from Chocolatería Rama yesterday. It was hard to leave, but we knew we had a rough trek back and didn’t want to have to rush.

The for the trek back, Amir carried her on his shoulders until we caught back up with our stroller. We just gave ourselves permission to stop and rest as often as needed which made the return trip pretty tolerable.

Cleopatra took a nap in her stroller

All the rest stops along the way made for a great opportunity to snap a last few photos.

We reached the car starving and desperate to find a baño for me. I’d spotted a small café on one of our many drives through town. We decided to give it a try.

Chaido Tea Room & Café

The place reminded me of a young grandmas house. Eclectic decor, small, intimate and laced with detail.

We found a table near the window and quickly made some menu selections.

We ordered the waffles with creme, two sandwiches and two fresh fruit juice blends.

Prosciutto, Brie, tomato and arugula on multigrain bread
Café con Nutella (Coffee with Nutella)

#1Toddler not having had much of a nap was restless, so we had to pay up and skip dessert.

Admiring the decor at Chiado
Do the outdoor seating if you can

Tonight we have to pack up for our flight to stop #3 on this Argentinian adventure, Iguazú Falls. On the border between Argentina and Brazil, Iguazú Falls are the largest waterfalls in the world, despite Victoria and Niagara Falls sometimes trying to steal the title. The weather should be sunny in the low 90s, and our hotel has a pool. I’m ready.

-Steph

Argentina Day 8: Rain, rain go away

Another day of rain for us, but that’s ok because we deliberately placed scenic Bariloche in the middle of our three-stop adventure, a time to slow down and relax.

The window clings I bought as an airplane activity double as rainy day fun as well

Dry erase markers and window clings plus an oversized window created a giant canvas for practicing the alphabet.

The rain let up some, so we set out for a walk through Cerro Leones, ancient volcanic caves complete with 8000 year old drawings from civilizations long ago lost.

Unfortunately when we got there, we didn’t realize they offer only guided tours, and they leave at 11am and 3pm. It was 3:40. Sandra, the hostess, was very helpful. She offered to schedule us for tomorrow and even volunteered a hiking carrier for #1Toddler should we want to use it. We decided to take her info and decide later on if we’ll try again.

Strawberry and banana ice cream at Chocolatería Rama

Not to be defeated, we left Cerro Leones and found a delicious Chocolatería & Heladería close to a park with a playground. Some people are easy to please.

Parque Eziquiel

After the park and ice cream, we of course needed to eat more. We decided upon Punta Panorámico which was recommended by our AirBnB host Otto.

Tostada de jamón y queso (grilled ham and cheese)
Trout with parmesan panko crust and herb cream potatoes
Chocolate Chico (small hot chocolate)

Of course Punto Panorámico had amazing views, even in the wet weather.

We’re settling in early for a movie night with all three of us in one bed. “Cars” in Spanish is the plan. Tomorrow calls for sunshine and more beautiful walks.

-Steph

Argentina Day 7: Rainbows, Rain & Chocolate

Yesterday I went to sleep feeling as if I were sleeping under the stars, and this morning I awoke to a welcoming rainbow just outside our window overlooking the lake.

Good morning my sweet rainbow

If you read our travel blogs regularly, you might recall that a year and a half ago we were in Rome, Italy. We had just lost our second baby at just shy of 13 weeks. It was especially cruel as we’d gone through IVF to conceive #1Toddler, and this was what the infertility world calls a “spontaneous pregnancy.”

Unfortunately she wasn’t healthy, and wasn’t meant to come home with us. Losing her was gut-wrenching and felt cruel. Why be given such a gift only to have it taken from you? While in Rome, we honored her by releasing pink roses into the River Tiber with The Vatican in the distance.

But this morning I awoke here in Bariloche, Argentina, 20 weeks pregnant and feeling the kicks of our little boy, also the product of science and persistence. A baby born after a loss is known as a rainbow baby. A loss can never be replaced, but it feels so good to be adding to our family. Thank you Argentina for the nod to our rainbow.

Today delivered rain and temperatures in the high 50s just as forecast. We stayed in bed and in pajamas drinking coffee and indulging in a little screen time for all.

We rallied around 1:30pm and headed to Bariloche Center to pick up our professional photo from the ski lift yesterday and start our chocolate hopping.

Sometimes that touristy photo is worth it

Stop #1 on the chocolate tour – Rapanui Chocolate. Founded in 1948 by an Italian fleeing the ravages of war, Rapanui is one of the oldest chocolate factories and stores in Bariloche.

Vanilla waffle with strawberries, bananas, vanilla ice cream and chocolate

Not only can you purchase chocolate pieces like bonbons, Rapanui also offers sit down service featuring waffles, crepes, gelato and coffee.

TeamLouka enjoys Rapanui waffles

We snagged a seat with a view of the indoor ice skating rink located within the store.

People kept crashing into our window which #1Toddler found hysterical

After Rapanui we headed to Mamuschka to buy some presents for some unnamed people back home. Most of the chocolate shops offer free samples while you wait in line, so be vigilant.

Bombones at Mamuschka

After completing our purchases at Mamuschka, we crossed the street and entered La Reina Chocolate to get some take home treats for dessert tonight.

Marbled chocolate at Reina Chocolate
“Chocolate heart pwease”
Bon bons and jellies at Reina Chocolate

After our chocolate tour, we stopped by KPlay arcade to unwind and hopefully snag a stuffed animal for #1Toddler.

KPlay at Bariloche Center

KPlay features a giant sized claw machine, Peppa Pig riding game, numerous racing games and skeeball.

Selection of games at KPlay

After our afternoon of chocolate and games, we stopped by the grocery store for a few essentials and headed back to the house to make pizza and light the fireplace. Sometimes it’s good to slow down a bit.

-Steph