Author: Steph Louka

Stephanie is an EMS Physician and Life-Member of the Virginia Beach Volunteer Rescue Squad. She lives in Richmond, VA with her husband Amir.

France Days 3&4: Seine boat ride, dinner at Le Jules atop the Eiffel Tower and The Louvre

Confession: I’m writing Day 3 on Day 4 because day three ended at 1:30am on Day 4, which didn’t leave any room for late night writing. And with a post title that long, I feel justified in my exhaustion. I did manage to make a video before crashing.

Yesterday again lead to a late wakeup with a late start. We took the metro from Rue D’Amsterdam towards the island in the Seine. We arrived just before 11:30am only to find that our desired Seine boat ride was sold out, with the next available tickets at 2pm. We purchased six and shifted gears, in search of some “Take Away” lunch.

We always rely on the subway/tube/Metro whenever traveling in big cities, but this Metro has presented a challenge. The gates on the turnstile are super-quick, especially for kids. We are 2 for 3 of kids getting “eaten” by the closing turnstile gates. We’ve looked for the stroller lanes without luck. There might be a little metro PTSD working against us after this one.

We arrived back to Vedette Du Pont-Neuf with plenty of time to spare. We snagged seats up top and were quickly surrounded by a few elementary school field trips. Our kind of crowd.

The cruise was one hour long and traversed both sides of the island. We had great views of Notre Dame, the cathedral devastated by fire in 2019, now slated to reopen five years later in 2024.

After our boat ride, it was clearly time for cocktails and snacks. Amir has a knack for finding picturesque little spots off the beaten path. He spends months ahead of our trips watching YouTube videos, inspecting Google Maps and searching Instagram for inspo.

We stopped at Brasserie Des Pres for ice cream and drinks. The kitchen was closed (it was 3pm) but it offered everything we wanted. Fresh drinks, a selection of ice cream and sorbet, and decor to die for.

Amir and I were the rate limiters for our afternoon snack as we needed to get back to the apartment to get ready for my birthday dinner. When Amir told me we’d be traveling with three kids on my birthday, but it would save us a ton on flights, of course my gut reaction was “well then I want dinner at the top of the Eiffel Tower.”

Le Jules Verne, located above the Olympic rings

I’d actually said it in jest… and it was 5 months ago… so I never expected anything to materialize. My husband listens when it counts. He learned that reservations open 90 days in advance, set a calendar reminder and snapped up a table for two.

Seven course tasting menu

With its two Michelin stars, Le Jules Verne is known worldwide for amazing views and unforgettable setting. You take a private elevator to the top – not only skipping the tourist line but avoiding it altogether. The restaurant is located on the second floor of the Eiffel Tower, just above the Olympic Rings. The tippy top floor is an enviable private apartment of the late Mr. Eiffel. He was known for his posh and exclusive dinner parties. #aspirations

The front of the house staff outnumbered the guests by 2:1. Each table only had one seating per night. Our reservation at 7:15, lead us through a seven course culinary adventure that with wine and conversation, lasted well past midnight. At 11 and again at midnight, the tower lights up and flashes for just five minutes. We were lucky to catch both. Good job babe.

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France Day 4: The Louvre with Family Focus Tours

Embarrassingly, I only planned one thing on this trip – a kid-focused guided tour of The Louvre conducted by Alexandra, a child psychologist. Check out her list of family friendly tours for kids of all ages. She chose the Treasures Hunt tour for us – complete with clues to collect along the way and “treasure” to be unlocked at the end of our quest.

Alexandra is a professional. She came highly recommended in one of my favorite Facebook groups, Mama Docs Travel. They’ve delivered with great recommendations for past trips, so I knew we were in good hands.

I’ve taken a few art history courses back in my day, so it was satisfying to see so many familiar works of art. Ever since seeing La Guernica in Spain, I’ve understood that the in-person experience of a piece is just that – something to experience, not just look at.

The Four Seasons (Guiseppe Arcimboldo)

Alexandra engages the kids at every step. She brought age appropriate booklets the kids could read, color and decorate with stickers. One favorite activity was creating our own fruit faces a la The Four Seasons by Arcimboldo.

Rainy day at The Louvre

Our tour lasted 3 hours, just in time for lunch. Alexandra was kind enough to recommend a kid-friendly crepería, Buckwheat. Offering both sweet and savory crepes, everyone in our crew found something they loved.

We had some trouble getting an Uber back to the apartment from the Louvre area – likely due to the thousands of people using up the bandwidth in the area. We walked a few blocks down and connected no problem. We’ve been using a combo of metro and Ubers this trip. The Uber Van is a perfect for with 6 seats and plenty of legroom for Amir. Our stroller folds up easily and tucks under a seat.

Gift shop post card

This afternoon we have to pack and prepare to leave Paris for Honfleur tomorrow. Somehow we’ve already come to the end of this first part of our French adventure. We’ve rented an AirBnB in Honfleur, in the Normandy region. As usual, we try to balance our busy city visits with a stop in the countryside to slow down and let the kids run around, and mom, dad and au pair relax.

Time to start packing if I wanted to catch any of the EuroCup match tonight…

~Steph

France Day 2: Tastes, sights and sounds of Paris

Yesterday on the plane, #1BigBrother was a bit upset when that pesky “Captain” kept interrupting the sound on his show.

“Why do they always have to talk about safety?” he blurted out for everyone on the plane to hear.

Bike rentals outside our AirBnb

I fully expected everyone to awake at 4am, ready to party thanks to East Coast hours… but the travel gods came through with the kids sleeping a full 13 hours and only showing signs of life around 9:30 am Paris time.

Last night Amir and I snagged some milk and bread on the way home. Breakfast this morning was easy – toast with your choice of strawberry preserves, Nutella or soft cheese. And coffee, lots of coffee.

We’d planned to go to the Palais de Garnier first thing, but our unanticipated late start cut the morning short. With lunch reservations at noon, we decided to take a slow walk up Rue Blanche towards our lunch destination, Pink Mamma.

Ale, our au pair, cheated and went to Paris ahead of us back in March. *But* she’d meant to visit one of the world’s most beautiful Starbucks but had the first ever Google Maps fail which took her to the wrong spot. So of course, we had to correct the missed moment.

Starbucks Capucines, Paris, France

After caffeine for the adults and fruit smoothies for the kids, we were powered up for our walk to Pink Mamma, the Instagramable eclectic Italian spot with a glass roof and miss-matched picture frames.

Two of our best friends from residency, Lety and Peter, happen to also be in Paris after attending a wedding. We didn’t plan to overlap – just a happy accident. What does it say about our schedules that it was easier to get all 10 of us together for lunch abroad than back home?

Soaking it all in at Pink Mamma

We ordered the famous truffle pasta, spaghetti a la scampi, burrata with tomato sauce and pizza for the kids. Everything was excellent. Oh, plus a few cocktails.

After Pink Mamma we walked to towards the Basilica of Sacré Coeur de Montmartre, a Catholic Church built in the late 19th century, so relatively old by European standards. They chose the spot in Montmartre due to its elevation and breathtaking views of the city below. The site is accessible to all – strollers, wheelchairs and pedestrians thanks to the Faniculare Montmartre, an inclined transport system originally built in 1900, that takes you to the top. Of course there’s always the old fashioned way to the top. And for Peter, next to those 911 staircase climbs, he opted to go by foot – and beat us there.

On our way up to Montmartre

The climb was worth it – even for Peter. While a bit crowded, the view gave back in spades. Love locks on the fences surrounded the perimeter, and a popsicle vendor made even our youngest travelers happy.

Right where the Faniculare drops off, there’s an authentic two-story carousel. The ride was a bit short in this mom’s opinion, but the kids loved every minute.

Carousel de Saint-Pierre

Despite pure exhaustion, #1BigBrother insisted we ride the train. If it hadn’t been for our trip to Florence last year where we rode all the things, I may have objected saying it was too touristy.

Train selfie

We parted ways with our friends at the train – everyone exhausted and looking for different things. We may reconnect tomorrow for a picnic in the park. Lots of room for the kids to run around, and for parents to enjoy catching up in a far away place.

Some odds & ends below…

~Steph

France Day 1: Less regrets, more baguettes!

Ever since Peppa Pig went to Paris back in 2018, this trip was inevitable. For the next two years #1BigSister, then a toddler, thought every cell tower in Richmond was the Eiffel Tower and would give a verbal recount of Peppa’s adventure magnifique.

Like most of our trips, the hardest part was deciding on and securing the time off. Now with a rising 2nd grader, we’re limited by the school calendar. And, having been spoiled by business class the last few years, affordable flights dictate where we go.

Amir found some good options on Iceland Air. We’re driving to Dulles, connecting in Keflavík, then flying in to Charles de Gaulle.

On the drive up, we celebrated my 46th birthday in style at Taco Bell. Did you know you can now get an oversized Cheese-It shoved into a burrito?

After a roll-call to ensure we were six again, I polled the team. “Name one thing you really really really want to do in France!”

#1BigBrother: ride a motorcycle!

#1BigSister: Disney!

Ale: eat a GIANT macaroon

#1LittleSister: play in the airport

Amir: go inside a German bunker at Normandy

Me: wine, a baguette and good people watching at an outdoor cafe

#1BigSister prepares for the safety briefing

We hit no traffic on the way to Dulles, and once there, we sailed through TSA security screening with little hastle. Amir and I both commented that the TSA seems much more organized and family friendly over the past year – maybe they finally hired Chick -Fil-A as an operations consultant.

We didn’t get to explore Iceland as we had a tight connection, but we’re definitely adding it to the travel list. Tourism here has exploded in the last ten years – so much so that they are building a new airport but already seeing the volumes of a huge European hub. From the air, the entire landscape was flat, no trees, but not brown or dead… and not all snow covered… moss. It’s the land of moss. I’m in love.

Man to man defense

The flight to Paris was smooth and easy – less than three hours. I managed to squeeze the Whitney Houston movie in with just 4 minutes to spare. When I was in 6th grade, I was the new kid, just having moved from Midlothian to Virginia Beach. I was feeling a little down and lonely, but distinctly remember when the music teacher asked me if I would do a solo at the chorus performance. Just me and one other girl. Can’t remember her name. Just two lines each, but I remember them.

“Everybody searching for a hero
People need someone to look up to
I never found anyone who fulfill my needs
A lonely place to be
And so I learned to depend on me.”

I went on to do All-City Chorus that year… only thing is – I can’t really sing. Even though my mom is musical and sings, I’ve never been good. Maybe I was cute back then?

Anyway, I did tear up a bit for Miss Whitney. Everyone wanted a piece of her. She got caught in the wheel.

We took at Uber from the airport to our AirBnB, and for the first time ever, the host wasn’t there when promised. Nearly a half hour later that we said we’d arrive, Shirley appeared with keys.

The place is more spectacular than the photos showed – a private outdoor courtyard, cool art and right next to the Saint Lazare train station. I give credit for that last detail to Amir. He researches these places for weeks before booking. We’ve learned access to public transit is a must. Especially as most taxis and Ubers max out at 5 people, and we are of course a team of 6.

Coincidentally our friends Lety and Peter are here in Paris right now with their two girls. We have to nail down the details, but plan to meet them for lunch tomorrow.

Stick a fork in me…

~Steph

St Maarten Day 6: Last minute fun before travel

Checkout was 11am, but our flight didn’t leave til 4. The best thing about travel within the Western hemisphere is shorter flights, and less time zone changes. That last one is key with kids – 6 hours time difference to Europe messes up everyone’s sleep schedules and leads to some grumpy travelers, Mom and Dad included.

Hair braiding at Kids Club

Thanks to the afternoon flight, we were able to squeeze in some last minute food and fun at the resort. As soon as she opened her eyes this morning, #1BigSister requested more time at the Kids Club. I was happy to accommodate the request as it gave me some uninterrupted time to pack.

Last minute photo quest

The extra time this morning also gave Ale and I another chance to take photos near the water. I’d tried a few times throughout the trip, but time of day really determines the right light, and we hadn’t quite found it yet.

Our flight left 1.5 hours late, so it’s a good thing Amir opted for the 3 hour layover rather than the 45 minute connection in Miami. Back to the grind tomorrow – but I’m pretty motivated. My last shift before our trip, I had a big save which refilled my cup. Not a bad start to 2024.

– Steph

St Maarten Day 5: Pruned and Pickled

Last day here – we had motivated intentions to hit the other side of the island via taxi, but the kids won. They loved what they saw at Kids’ Club yesterday and demanded a return visit.

Kids’ Club Schedule at Sonesta Maho

I started the morning taking everyone to breakfast. Second day in a row – 3:1 ratio at a buffet – do not recommend. But if you have to do it, here’s what you need to do:

Step 1: get a table within eyeshot of the buffet

Step 2: bribe two eldest for good behavior

Step 3: get a plate for the youngest – she needs to be distracted eating while you leave the table to help the other two

Step 4: whisk eldest kids through buffet lines while keeping an eye on youngest at table

Step 5: beg waitress for juices (ain’t nobody got enough hands for getting them on the buffet line)

Step 6: sneak away to grab plate for yourself

Step 7: abandon your plate secondary to embarrassment/hunger analysis when youngest two start screaming

#winning

Thank goodness for pizza 24/7

After feeding everyone, I headed to Kids Club to drop off the #1Bigs and take #1Little to the pool. We had some fun, but since she still has ZERO swimming ability and 100% sink capacity, this ex-lifeguard was NEVER relaxed. It was only when Amir showed up a bit later that I was able to breathe (and drink).

After a long day at the pool, we made a plan to eat dinner but then divide and conquer. The Bigs had their hearts set on movie night at the kids club. Ale took #1LittleSister for a bit while Amir and I enjoyed an evening cocktail by the water. Would you believe my husband, Egyptian lover of all things olive, gin and cocktails, had never before had a gin martini until tonight???? WHAT?

Tomorrow we head back to VA. Boo.

– Steph