Another day of rain for us, but that’s ok because we deliberately placed scenic Bariloche in the middle of our three-stop adventure, a time to slow down and relax.
The window clings I bought as an airplane activity double as rainy day fun as well
Dry erase markers and window clings plus an oversized window created a giant canvas for practicing the alphabet.
The rain let up some, so we set out for a walk through Cerro Leones, ancient volcanic caves complete with 8000 year old drawings from civilizations long ago lost.
Unfortunately when we got there, we didn’t realize they offer only guided tours, and they leave at 11am and 3pm. It was 3:40. Sandra, the hostess, was very helpful. She offered to schedule us for tomorrow and even volunteered a hiking carrier for #1Toddler should we want to use it. We decided to take her info and decide later on if we’ll try again.
Strawberry and banana ice cream at Chocolatería Rama
Not to be defeated, we left Cerro Leones and found a delicious Chocolatería & Heladería close to a park with a playground. Some people are easy to please.
Parque Eziquiel
After the park and ice cream, we of course needed to eat more. We decided upon Punta Panorámico which was recommended by our AirBnB host Otto.
Tostada de jamón y queso (grilled ham and cheese)Trout with parmesan panko crust and herb cream potatoes Chocolate Chico (small hot chocolate)
Of course Punto Panorámico had amazing views, even in the wet weather.
We’re settling in early for a movie night with all three of us in one bed. “Cars” in Spanish is the plan. Tomorrow calls for sunshine and more beautiful walks.
Yesterday I went to sleep feeling as if I were sleeping under the stars, and this morning I awoke to a welcoming rainbow just outside our window overlooking the lake.
Good morning my sweet rainbow
If you read our travel blogs regularly, you might recall that a year and a half ago we were in Rome, Italy. We had just lost our second baby at just shy of 13 weeks. It was especially cruel as we’d gone through IVF to conceive #1Toddler, and this was what the infertility world calls a “spontaneous pregnancy.”
Unfortunately she wasn’t healthy, and wasn’t meant to come home with us. Losing her was gut-wrenching and felt cruel. Why be given such a gift only to have it taken from you? While in Rome, we honored her by releasing pink roses into the River Tiber with The Vatican in the distance.
But this morning I awoke here in Bariloche, Argentina, 20 weeks pregnant and feeling the kicks of our little boy, also the product of science and persistence. A baby born after a loss is known as a rainbow baby. A loss can never be replaced, but it feels so good to be adding to our family. Thank you Argentina for the nod to our rainbow.
Today delivered rain and temperatures in the high 50s just as forecast. We stayed in bed and in pajamas drinking coffee and indulging in a little screen time for all.
We rallied around 1:30pm and headed to Bariloche Center to pick up our professional photo from the ski lift yesterday and start our chocolate hopping.
Sometimes that touristy photo is worth it
Stop #1 on the chocolate tour – Rapanui Chocolate. Founded in 1948 by an Italian fleeing the ravages of war, Rapanui is one of the oldest chocolate factories and stores in Bariloche.
Vanilla waffle with strawberries, bananas, vanilla ice cream and chocolate
Not only can you purchase chocolate pieces like bonbons, Rapanui also offers sit down service featuring waffles, crepes, gelato and coffee.
TeamLouka enjoys Rapanui waffles
We snagged a seat with a view of the indoor ice skating rink located within the store.
People kept crashing into our window which #1Toddler found hysterical
After Rapanui we headed to Mamuschka to buy some presents for some unnamed people back home. Most of the chocolate shops offer free samples while you wait in line, so be vigilant.
Bombones at Mamuschka
After completing our purchases at Mamuschka, we crossed the street and entered La Reina Chocolate to get some take home treats for dessert tonight.
Marbled chocolate at Reina Chocolate“Chocolate heart pwease”Bon bons and jellies at Reina Chocolate
After our chocolate tour, we stopped by KPlay arcade to unwind and hopefully snag a stuffed animal for #1Toddler.
KPlay at Bariloche Center
KPlay features a giant sized claw machine, Peppa Pig riding game, numerous racing games and skeeball.
Selection of games at KPlay
After our afternoon of chocolate and games, we stopped by the grocery store for a few essentials and headed back to the house to make pizza and light the fireplace. Sometimes it’s good to slow down a bit.
Last night I fell asleep under the stars with the help of our panoramic bedroom windows. The weather forecast promised to be gorgeous today and did not disappoint.
The ascent at Cerro Campanario
Small children can safely sit on an adult lap
First stop, riding the chair lift at Cerro Campanario, the mountain directly across from our AirBnB.
The chair lift takes you up to a mountain top cafe and overlook. The lift is a typical ski lift – slow and accommodating for nearly everyone. Small children, elderly folks with canes, we saw a mix. Tickets are just 500 peso ($9) per person, and children under 5 are free.
The café at the top has indoor and outdoor seating
Ice cream any time, any place
The cafe at the peak offers both food and drinks. We opted for beef, chicken and cheese empanadas with café con leche and fresh fruit juice. There’s also pizza and a generous selection of pastries and desserts.
Panoramic view from atop Cerro Campanario
Mama and baby girl
Your ticket thankfully includes the ride back down as well. We were sad for the journey to end, but the trip down was even more impressive than the way up.
Descent view at Cerro Campanario
After Cerro Campanario, we knew #1Toddler would be looking to nap. She almost fell asleep on the chair lift down. We set out for Sendero de los Arrayanes, a park with flat trails that’s low aerobic demand and stroller friendly. Most everything is within a 5-10 mile radius in Bariloche, so it didn’t take long to find.
You can take your pick of walking sticks at the start of the trail. The entire trail is roughly 1.5 miles. It’s fairly flat with a good mix of inclines and declines in each direction.
About half way down the trail there’s an offshoot that allows you to explore el Bosque de los Arrayanes (Forrest of the Chilean Myrtles). These trees require a specific habitat and soil and are extremely fragile. They’re known for their unique twisted branches, narrow trunks with irregular white spots, and cinnamon-colored bark that peels off as the tree grows. Many are over 300 years old.
El Bosque de los Arrayanes
El Bosque de los Arrayanes
At the end of the trail there’s a rocky beach with flat water and lapping waves. #1Toddler must have thrown 100+ rocks into the lake.
“Splash!”
“Look mama a green one!”
Finding the perfect rock
After Sendero de los Arrayanes we were of course hungry again. Prior to the trip, Amir scopes out the local breweries (there are a ton) and decided Patagonia Cervecería was a must.
Patagonia Belgian Red
You can’t get more “locally grown” than these hops
The menu was exactly what we wanted – charcuterie, burgers, a few salads. #1Toddler and I split the “Las Brisas” board, while Amir enjoyed a burger.
Las Brisas board
Patagonia Cervecería is doing right what Richmond just can’t seem to figure out. The atmosphere is incredible. Bariloche had amazing views of the water, and everywhere you turn you get to experience them. Back home, we have the beautiful James River, but nay a single brewery (maybe Legend) capitalizing on that perfect view.
Casual seating and a walk-up bar
Restaurant seating with full service
Casual outdoor seating at Patagonia Cervecería
Today was amazing. And I’m stuffed. Tomorrow’s forecast calls for 60 degrees and rain, so looks like we’ll be doing some indoor chocolate factory hopping. Oh darn.
We woke up this morning mostly packed and ready for our 10am checkout and 12:40pm flight from Buenos Aires to San Carlos de Bariloche, or Bariloche for short.
Located in the Patagonia Region, it’s a haven for outdoor enthusiasts of all seasons. The mountains lend to exceptional skiing in the winter, and as we are here in the summer, we’ve seen an endless flow of backpackers and hikers. A good 1/3 of the bags on the belt at the airport were hiking backpacks.
View from our AirBnB in BA, you can see protestors marching towards the square
We arrived at the domestic terminal of Buenos Aires airport to a checkin line that looked to be at least two hours long. And we hadn’t gotten that memo. We wrapped our way around to find the end of the line, and just as we were losing hope of catching our flight, an airline attendant saw us and directed us over to a special checkin. I’m still not sure if it was because we had a stroller with a toddler, or because I’m pregnant, or maybe both, but there are perks to traveling as a family in other countries.
I’ve said it before when we were in Greece, but the US seems to make traveling with small children as painful as possible. Every other country in the world does just the opposite. It’s so refreshing yet frustrating.
#1Toddler checking out the view from AirBnB #2
By the time we landed, rented a car and drove into town, we were starving. We needed to check in to our AirBnB first though. We settled in, and I unpacked a bit. We had just decided to go out for a late lunch when someone wanted to take a nap. Amir went for groceries instead, and while he was gone, someone got a second wind and never ended up sleeping after all.
Master bedroom
Guest room
We made pasta sauce from scratch with fresh local sausage and vegetables and settled in for a quiet dinner at home. We listened to Graceland by Paul Simon as we admired the view and made plans for an exciting day tomorrow.
Amir asked me this morning why I love Eva Perón so much… I had to stop and think… and correct him. Love isn’t the right word – it’s more that she fascinates me.
Eva Perón grew up a poor, illegitimate child and moved to Buenos Aires at age 15 to pursue a career in acting and television. She struggled for years until she met then Secretary of Labour, Juan Perón. They married a year later. He became president of Argentina in 1946.
“Evita” as the country would come to call her, was dichotomous in every sense. Elegant and underprivileged. Benevolent and self-promoting. Divisive and unifying. As a woman, she pushed her way (and coaxed people into inviting her) into social spheres and roles no other First Lady had. She even ran for Vice President. She was adored and despised. She was far from perfect but never claimed to be. Maybe I identify with her.
Today we visited her family grave at Cementario Recoleta. But first, let’s talk about our milanesas lunch and the delicious cookies we made.
Milanesa Patagónica
Milanesa Napolitana
Milanesa is a traditional Argentinian dish which borrows from Italian roots. They take a variety of meats – veal, pork, chicken – pound it thin and bread it. This particular restaurant, La Casa de la Milanesa, treated the milanesa like a pizza crust, offering a selection of toppings with a side of fries. Delicious.
Andra Bakery, Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Our next stop was at Andra Bakery to take a “clase de pastelería,” or a pastry class. We’ve come to enjoy the “experiences” you can find on AirBnB, so when we saw the chance to bake our own traditional alfajores, we jumped.
Aspirational models
For $40 per person, you get very personal instruction from the owner. She limits each class to three people, so your lesson is essentially private.
Over two hours, you make three different cookies, each with a slight variation on the traditional alfajores.
You weigh your bowl as you add ingredients, taking care to tare the scale along the way. You mix the dough with your bare hands, then chill it in the refrigerator while mixing the next batch. The cook time is short, and the ROI high. We walked out with two whole boxes of cookies, new knowledge and the joy of a unique experience.
After cookies at Andra Bakery, we walked two blocks to enter El Cementario de la Recoleta. I never knew there was a list of Top 10 Cemeteries in the world, but Recoleta is on it.
Many famous Argentinians are buried here including Eva Perón, the founder of the Argentinian Navy and numerous past presidents.
While for most of its existence it’s been restricted to the notable and wealthy in society, for a few short years Recoleta was open to public burials. As a result you’ll find some very common people resting next to Argentinian greats.
Eva Perón is buried here, despite a huge push for her to be returned to the small humble village where she was raised.
Tomb for the Duarte Family and Eva Perón
Sadly Eva Perón died at the age of 33 from what most believe was cervical cancer. Her untimely death makes her rise to fame so much more interesting to me as I’m left wondering what she could have accomplished with more years.
Inside one of the neglected tombs
After Recoleta and a brief siesta back at the apartment, we took an Uber to La Estancia, a meat lovers paradise. It’s akin to the Brazilian steakhouse, but is much more personalized and less mass market.
We started with a caprese salad, beef empañadas and some fresh bread.
For our main course, we ordered a mixed barbecue of lamb, pork ribs, sausage, suckling pig and beef.
It arrived steaming, snapping and crackling on a bed of hot coals. Our experienced waiter had covered my bag in the chair beside me with a yellow linen. When our dish arrived, it was then that I understood why.
We’re packing up tonight for our flight to Bariloche tomorrow. Bariloche is in the Patagonia region and from photos most resembles Switzerland meets Breckinridge. We’ll see if the photos hold true.
Sadly Eva Perón died at the age of 33 from what most believe was cervical cancer. Her untimely death makes her rise to fame so much more interesting to me as I’m left wondering what she could have accomplished with more years.
TeamLouka 