One of the things that has fascinated me most about this trip is where we’re staying. Yesterday we arrived at Lidia’s family’s beach house in Peñíscolas, and it’s unlike any vacation community I’ve ever seen.

More than 50 years ago, Lidia’s grandparents joined with several other families from Autol to dream up something special. Together, they pooled their money, designed the community, and helped build what they call Peñautol (Peñíscola + Autol). The result was ten modest beach homes, or casillas, tucked behind a gate and centered around a shared swimming pool.

Originally, every one of the ten homes belonged to families from Autol. Over the years, a few have changed hands, and today about half are still owned by those original Autol families. Even so, the sense of history and connection remains. These aren’t just vacation homes—they’re places where generations of the same families have spent their summers together, watching children become parents and now grandparents.

I can’t help but admire the vision it took. In an era long before crowdfunding or master-planned communities, a group of friends from a small Spanish town came together to create something that would bring their families joy for decades. Standing here today, more than 50 years later, with our own children splashing in the same shared pool, it’s clear they succeeded.

This morning we packed up our beach gear and made our way to the beach in Peñíscola. On the way, we stopped at a little shop to pick up a few essentials: inflatable rafts for the kids, some sand toys, and anything else that looked like it might make for a fun day by the sea.

Our first priority after arriving was securing a few lounge chairs under an umbrella. Once we had claimed our little patch of shade, the kids wasted no time racing toward the Mediterranean. While Amir wrestled with his inflatable, I proudly managed to get mine blown up first—a small but satisfying victory!

The day settled into the perfect beach rhythm: jumping waves, building in the sand, floating in the warm water, and simply soaking in the atmosphere. What makes this beach truly unforgettable, though, is the backdrop. Rising dramatically from the rocky peninsula is the magnificent castle of Peñíscola, its ancient stone walls towering above the sea. It’s hard to imagine a more beautiful setting for a day at the beach.

The beach itself is undeniably crowded—and this wasn’t even a weekend. Brightly colored umbrellas covered nearly every inch of sand, and once you were in the water you had to keep an eye out to avoid drifting into someone else’s float or body surfing into another family. Yet somehow it never felt overwhelming. There was an infectious energy to it all. The laughter, conversations in a dozen languages, children chasing waves, and the constant movement made the beach feel vibrant and alive.

One of the highlights of the day was renting a paddle boat with a built-in waterslide. Climbing up and launching ourselves into the sea brought out everyone’s inner child. Unfortunately, I left my waterproof phone case behind, so I don’t have any photos of us flying down the slide. Sometimes the best memories are the ones you simply have to experience.

As we paddled around, I couldn’t help but wonder if something like this would be a hit back home at the Greater Richmond Sailing Association. I asked Amir whether a paddle boat without a sail would even be allowed on the water there. He wasn’t sure, but agreed that if the club members saw how much fun everyone was having, they might be willing to make an exception. It may be a far-fetched idea—but I have a feeling it would be a popular one!

After a full morning at the beach, everyone was ready for lunch. We picked up a takeout paella from a small local spot that, somewhat surprisingly, is also known for making excellent pizza. It felt wonderfully unpretentious—here was one of Spain’s most iconic dishes being served from a casual neighborhood takeaway.

Back at the house, we gathered around the outdoor table to enjoy our feast. As seems to be the custom here, neighbors wandered over with an open invitation to join us. There was no need for formal plans or elaborate invitations—just good food, good conversation, and whoever happened to be nearby. It’s a refreshing way to live.

After lunch, the kids wasted no time jumping back into the pool while the adults lingered over conversation in the shade. Eventually, though, the Mediterranean heat caught up with all of us. At 5:15, the house grew quiet as everyone retreated to their bedrooms for a proper siesta. At first, the late-afternoon nap seemed like an unusual tradition to me, but after spending a few days here, I’m beginning to understand why it’s endured for generations.

Tonight we’re looking forward to something completely different: dinner inside the castle walls of Peñíscola. After spending the day admiring the fortress from the beach, we’ll finally get the chance to climb up into the old city and experience it from within. It feels like the perfect way to end another unforgettable day on Spain’s Mediterranean coast.

~Steph