Another 6:30 am wakeup – this is all starting to feel a bit predictable. Just after I finished serving up first breakfast (toast with butter and frozen mangos), I moved on to cooking up second breakfast (scrambled eggs with sausage links). They’d have taken a third breakfast if I let them, but at some point you just have to say no.
Somewhere around 4 am
With the hustle and bustle of yesterday, we were all craving a slow, easy relaxing day. Having casually said yesterday that we’d hang out today, this morning I texted Dee, “some of us are still in bed so it’ll be a bit before we figure out our specifics – I’ll keep you posted but don’t let us hold you up.” That may or not have been 10 am.
Somewhere around 11, we corralled everyone out the door, into the car and drove eastward to Cowpet Bay. There are a few nice resorts overlooking the bay which is dotted with anchored sailboats and swimming buoys. This beach was much less crowded than the Marriott, feeling more residential in the vibe, but still offering a great pool, multiple bars and a great casual beachfront restaurant with easy takeout.
Drip castles in the sand
Thanks to recommendations from one of our co-workers, Chelsea, I brought along a snorkeling raft and viewer. I’d never seen one of these things before – an inflatable raft with a drop in viewfinder that essentially creates a snorkeling-like view for those too young or too nervous to use a traditional mask.
That made Chelsea 2 for 2 on great recommendations – she was also the one who told me to pack milk-bone dog biscuits for feeding the fish yesterday.
Sandy shipwreck
We left Cowpet Bay around 4, heading home to shower, nap and prep for dinner. Dee and crew came to our place for dinner, swimming and ice cream. By 9pm, we all had nothing left to give.
A meeting of the minds
We got a call today that the boys’ fishing charter we’d scheduled for Friday is cancelled due to weather – something about 30 mph winds and potential for seasickness. There are definitely some disappointed faces, but we might try for a fishing outing in Norfolk once back home in Virginia.
We are going to bed tonight with absolutely ZERO plans for tomorrow. It’s lovely.
Man has it been a day. I’d hoped for more sleep this morning, but the reliable 6:30 am wakeup crew stayed consistent – begging for bananas and mangos until I finally dragged myself out of bed.
Marriott Resort, The VI Cat launch spot
We had a reservation at 1PM for a catamaran snorkeling adventure on The VI Cat with Dee, Patrick and all the kids. We made the reservation just two weeks in advance, but I’m told that things usually book up solid after that.
Morning swim session
This morning we didn’t want to do anything crazy since we knew the afternoon would be a lot. We swam at the house, and Amir made homemade pasta sauce – fresh tomatoes, onions, garlic and ricotta cheese with ground beef over fettuccini. We wanted to fill up for the boat to ease any unsettled stomachs and more importantly prevent the begging for snacks.
The catamaran left the dock at 1pm sharp, so we needed to be there by 12:30. Everything in the island is drivable within 30 minutes as far as we can tell. We had no issues making our deadline.
We motored out to Little Buck Island, a known sanctuary for sea turtles. After a quick safety briefing and warnings not to touch the sea turtles – a $10,000 fine with half going to your tour operator so they are incentivized to turn you in.
We broke into two groups, each with a guide who would point out turtles and other creatures of interest. The snorkeling itself lasted 45 minutes which was great for our crew but might feel short for a more serious crowd.
I popped my iPhone into a Pelican case in hopes of snapping some in and underwater photos. Note to self – practice with said case on dry land and learn what side buttons confidently do what before trying to snorkel with a toddler on your back. Hopefully I’ll get the hang of it as the week goes on.
One of five sea turtles I spotted
After the snorkeling portion, the sails went up, the boat crew mixed up a huge vat of Pain Killers, set out snacks and served up sodas for the kids. It was a nice way to unwind after the water adventure.
There was one snag as we left the dock – Dee accidentally set her phone down somewhere just before we boarded. She realized it almost immediately, just as we set sail for Little Buck Island. In desperation, she called the Marriott resort, the site we’d left from, and they ensured her they’d send security to hunt for her phone. I’m not sure we were hopeful, but there wasn’t anything to be done until we returned to shore and could launch a proper search & rescue mission.
Once back on shore, she called Marriott security who assured her they’d indeed found her phone (turned in to lost & found by a Good Samaritan), and that she ought to call her mom who seemed quite worried after calling and learning she’d lost her phone.
Team LoukaTeam Willis
After snorkeling, we jumped in our cars and set off to a small restaurant Amir found on Google Maps. If you’ve followed us on other trips, you know Amir’s a whiz at picking out extra special hole-in-the-wall places just based off of online reviews and photos. Today’s selection did not disappoint.
Situated inside a resort, it’s a bit off the beaten path, which worked in our favor trying to get two tables for 11 total with no reservations.
The restaurant hangs out over the water, similar to a Bubbas or Dockside for those of you familiar with Virginia Beach. Added bonus not available anywhere else – giant tarpon swimming in the shallow water below, easily visible from our tables, and easy enticed with Milk-bone Dog Biscuits (thanks for the tip Chelsea).
StingrayCrab friend
They offer the most affordable prices we’ve seen yet – $9 island drinks, $4 Coors Lite, $16 for three fresh catch fish tacos. But the built-in entertainment was priceless. Don’t be shocked if we go back before the week ends.
Free temporary tattoos from The VI Cat
Tomorrow we plan to spend the day at the resort where Dee and Patrick are staying, and hopefully catch up with one of our other friends in Emergency Medicine, Melissa.
I’m hoping for better sleep tonight as the sun, sand and sips are starting to slow me down.
Today was our last full day here – tomorrow is all travel back to Paris to return our rental van and fly back to the States. I think all of us are slowing down – lots of sun, food and play… home is starting to call.
The vegetable stall at the morning market
Every Wednesday and Saturday morning, right in front of the wooden church from yesterday, Sainte-Catherine, there’s a local market at 8am. We went on a Wednesday, but my online research tells me the Saturday market is a bit bigger. The market features local farmers, butchers, bakers and artisans selling jewelry, textiles and pottery. The local cideries and vineyards also come out with a wide offering of spirits. We grabbed some leafy lettuce and giant green onions for a salad, a few baguettes of course, and some homemade quiche.
But our menu wasn’t quite complete. Amir’s been eyeing the giant spider crabs ever since we arrived, and today seemed like the perfect day. Our lunch special guest came precooked, and “checked” by the pêcheur. Checked for what, I suspect I’d rather not know.
Those barnacles have been there a while…
Neither of us ever having eaten a spider crab, we underestimated the caliber if crab cracking tools we’d need to break into this bad boy. Traditional silver crab crackers were akin to a butter knife sawing through titanium. The shell is probably 8 times as thick as a snow crab, nothing we used could penetrate the perimeter. Amir went in search of better tools, and ultimate found success using a 12” diameter garden stone. VICTORY!
The king and his feast (check out that salad bowl)
There was of course more swimming after lunch, some forced naps, and a cocktail for me. Yesterday I took a chance on a bottle of Limoncello with Calvados. We first sampled Calvados during our side car adventure. It’s a French eau de vie produced in Normandy which is distilled from cider or perry and aged for a minimum of two or three years. Minimum alcohol content: 40% ABV. It packs a punch.
Around 5:30pm, we set off in the van for a 45 minute ride across the suspension bridge to Sainte-Adresse. We’d eaten a heavy lunch, so we were only interested in charcuterie and dessert. Amir again used a Google Maps to find Le Panorama, a small patio restaurant, full of people and posh dogs, with as the name says, panoramic views of the Seine. We watched cruise ships, sailboats and cargo tankers battle for right of way – paddle boarders and sunbathers laying claim to the rocky shore.
#1LittleSister explores “big rocks”You can park your moto in front of Le Panorama
After some good rock throwing and stone stacking, the day was growing late and bedtime well-past blown. Amir fetched the van – door to door drop off service thanks to his mom being along.
Tomorrow we need to leave here between 9 and 10 am to ensure we have enough time to return the rental and check in for our international flight. Somehow we’ve already reached that part of the trip that forces me to reflect and process. But for now I’ll keep my mind occupied packing and cleaning. There’s plenty of time up in the air tomorrow for that work.
We were on the go all day yesterday in Normandy, exploring Sword Beach and appreciating the military feat and sacrifice by so many that made D-Day a success. Being here now, seeing the signs saying “Let us never forget,” and knowing that back home many are inching towards repeating this past is just…
We are here at the site of the storming of the beach just two weeks after the 80th anniversary, yet I get the sense that the spirit you feel walking through the town exists year round.
The long walk down to the shore is lined by first hand accounts of survivors of that day – French, English, American, Canadian… all now nearly 100 years old or thereabout. Amir commented that by the next milestone anniversary, there likely may not be any survivors left. Historical events have different meaning when you can speak to actual survivors or even just those who lived through the era. I try to imagine that beach. What it took to step off those boats, watching men fall to the sand, and still stepping forward. Even with all respect given to their accounts, I know it was 100 times worse.
Normandy Bunkers
Ale had the day off yesterday and spent the day exploring a Honfleur and the beach. We caught up with her for dinner at Le Spot, a casual restaurant in the sand, with blue and white decor, romance novel cover-worthy waiters, and an assortment of tapas and zesty drinks.
Somehow the kids talked us into a quick swim at 8pm when we arrived home. Because we are in Northern France, it stays light until after 10pm. It was a little too chilly for my liking – so bath time was a convenient excuse. I edited a few photos, threw them up on Instagram and crashed.
Day 8
This morning Amir ran out to the fish monger to get a selection of fresh catch for dinner tonight. The last two days we’ve eyed up the fresh seafood in the markets, but have waited until too late in the day to have best pick. Our house has two outside grills, and he plans to make the most of them.
This morning we drove into Honfleur to visit the Naturospace Garden, home to exotic butterflies, tropical birds and flowers.
Spend the money and buy a few packs of fish food, whether you have little ones with you or not. The koi are huge and have big personalities, but only if you bribe them.
Feeding the koi
At Naturospace, don’t just look straight ahead or at the butterflies dancing around you. Look up to see a wide variety of colorful birds, and as #1BigSister reminded me from our Lewis Ginter butterfly visits, look down as well to ensure you don’t squish anyone.
We walked just a block to have lunch at Amore Mio as the kids were craving pizza, and I just wanted some atmosphere. I ordered the truffle and boratta pizza, while Ale and Amir both picked a pizza with spicy sausage and Gorgonzola.
Aperol orange dots the decor at Amore MioTruffle and buratta pizza
After lunch we circled back to a special church we first saw online when planning our trip and again on our side car tour, Église Sainte-Catherine, one of the rare European churches built entirely of wood. Its oldest parts date to the mid 15th century when townsmen, who were fishermen not architects, didn’t know how to build a traditional cathedral ceiling.using the techniques they knew, they created a ceiling from two upside down ships. They were concerned the wood might not support the weight of the church bell, so they erected a separate bell tower that is now one of the highest points in Honfleur, attracting frequent lightening strikes.
Church of Sainte Catherine, Honfleur, France
Back at the house, most of the crew went swimming while Amir prepped the fresh fish for the grill. I bought a tiny bug house with a magnifying glass at the Naturosphere gift shop which upon arrival home had many a budding David Attenborough ready to hunt for friends.
First I found a plump earthworm… but Ale had to outdo me and capture a bumble bee who would suck nectar from flowers then try to escape its new little world. The question arose, “Who is going to let him go?” to which I had an interesting immediate answer: “the one who caught him.”
Grill master
We enjoyed dinner on the back veranda, a fish new to us all called “bar,” mackerel, sausages and an assortment of cheeses and fresh strawberries. Oh and wine.
Tomorrow is our last day here. In true vacation mode, I have no idea what day of the week it is but do know I have a few days off after we get back to recover.
When the Amazon delivery truck shows up to your house daily, and a standard weekend date consists of buying a new TV at Costco (and a couple of hotdog combos), choosing a birthday gift for your wife is not exactly as straight forward as it may seem. But I do have one ace up my sleeve, even after a decade of marriage: We have always placed exceptional value on unique experiences, even more so when they involve atypical modes of transportation (aka Extreme Rentals). So it was no surprise Retro-Tours Normandy caught my eye while perusing the AirBnb “experiences” list for Honfleur. Motorcycle and sidecar tours through the back streets of a medieval town? SOLD.
Photo: Retro Tours Normandy
Pro Tip: I always scan the experiences list before a visit somewhere new while brainstorming an itinerary. We have found some really unique, fun things there – always hosted by locals – like baking traditional Argentinian cookies near the tomb of Eva Perón and guided market tours in Florence. For this trip, I booked directly through https://www.retro-tour.com/normandie/ as it was a bit cheaper, but I used the AirBnb page to ask a few questions via chat to ensure the kids could safely join us (and that I would fit…), which worked out perfectly.
But having purchased a side car tour for the family (minus the two year old who is too small and the 77 year old who is too… grandma) I still needed to give her a gift to open on her birthday. As usual, Amazon had the answer with free 2-day shipping, this time in the form of a limited edition Indiana Jones play set, complete with hat, whip, and rocket launcher. She was politely puzzled at first, then soon caught on and clearly shared my enthusiasm. Phew.
So today, finally, the day arrived – by far the thing I have been most looking forward to on this trip. I was just so excited for the opportunity to cruise all over this ancient town and the local area, learning about events that occurred here over the past 1000+ years and shaped history and our modern world. We met up with the three bikes as planned near the harbor, and quickly donned helmets. They had plenty for everyone, even the kids. #1 was eager to sport the accompanying googles and, needless to say, looked adorable. Being the biggest, I took a sidecar for myself, while #1 and #2 were able to cozy up with an adult in the other two. Despite being 6’5”, I was pleasantly surprised by how comfortable the sidecar was – but I opted to forgo the seatbelt assuming it was only likely to provide moral support rather than actual protection in the event of a crash.
As we set off, I immediately knew this would be a memorable day. With perfect weather, and it being Sunday, the wealthy locals were out in force parading their fancy cars around the harbor – Ferrari, Lotus, Porsche… nevertheless, our convoy of Urals rumbling through town was the primary head-turner. When I saw the driver of an Aston Martin Vanquish do a double take and check US out, I knew we were in for a really special day.
Sunday afternoon in Honfleur
And sure enough, it was a blast. We wound our way up through the town, our drivers pointing out notable points in the history of Honfleur such as the harbor fortifications and the home of impressionist Eugene Boudin.
Eventually we made it to the top of a tall hill to explore an ancient church and enjoy impressive views overlooking the mouth of the Seine and the Normandy suspension bridge, once the world’s longest at over 2000m end to end.
Honfleur overlook
The massive port of Le Havre sits on the opposite bank, completely destroyed by Allied bombing in WW2, only to be rebuilt almost entirely of concrete and now a unesco world heritage site for its unique architecture. And of course, spread out below us like peering through a window back in time, was the town and port of Honfleur, which escaped the bombing and remains almost exactly as it has been for over 800 years, like a time capsule from the age of knights and castles. For anyone who’s read Michael Creighton’s Timeline… it’s like that!
Looking out over the Seine estuary, our guides explained the history of the region – gifted to the Viking king Rollo in 911 in exchange for ceasing his relentless pillaging of Paris. The name “Normandy” refers to those Norman’s – North Men – who settled there, and whose later Duke, Guillaume (aka William), would sail across the Chanel to England and defeat the Anglo-Saxon king Harold at the Battle of Hastings in 1066. Some 957 years later, a direct descendent of William the Conqueror would be crowned Charles III after the death of his mother, Elizabeth.
#1 and #2 hunted “wish flowers”
From the overlook, we climbed back aboard our stylish rides, being sure to leer at the company competitor, Normandy Jeep Tours (bleh!), on the way out. We sped through winding hedgerows and past fields of cows, making our way about 15 minutes up the coast to Manoir D’Apreval, a family owned cidery and orchard. After sampling a variety of ciders, including the more potent local aperitif “Pommeau” and the even stronger “Calvados” – basically apple whisky – I couldn’t help but buy a few bottles to take home. And for the kids? The best apple juice in the world.
Manoir D’Apreval, family-owned cidery
From the cidery we made our way back into town, winding through cobbled streets lined with medieval timber framed houses. Many characteristically jut out a bit each level up, making them appear to lean out over the narrow bumpy street, perhaps to make the 12th century morning ritual of emptying the chamber pot directly onto the ground below all that much easier. I was glad for the helmet, just in case.
We briefly stopped to hear the story of Saint Catherine’s church – the largest wooden church in Europe and built by boat wrights, not masons. How does a boat builder craft the vaulted ceiling of a grand cathedral you ask? Well it turns out they just build a giant boat and turn it upside down. Stay tuned for more on that when we have a chance to explore the inside in more detail.
As all good things must, we soon found ourselves back at the start, and our tour came to an end. We thanked our guides for an experience I think we will all remember for years to come – even #2, who somehow slept through most of it.
We ended the day with a simple dinner in the garden, sipping local cider while the kids played in grass. What a great day.
TeamLouka 