Author: Steph Louka

Stephanie is an EMS Physician and Life-Member of the Virginia Beach Volunteer Rescue Squad. She lives in Richmond, VA with her husband Amir.

St Thomas Day 1: Direct flight delight

Somewhere around Christmastime, but before all this winter’s snow, we made a call to book a beach vacation over Spring Break. We had no idea how much we’d need it.

2025 Snow Troopers

January 2025 was just as the Counting Crows would say, “a long December.” A city-wide water crisis in Richmond had spillover effects to surrounding counties and, while our water at home was unaffected, work was a different story. We had two working bathrooms at our hospital, but colleagues at other local hospitals shared photos of temporary employee restrooms – 5 gallon buckets lined with red biohazard bags.

This trip we’re headed to St Thomas in the Virgin Islands, an unincorporated territory of the United States. We needed to pick somewhere within the US, Mexico or Canada to ensure that Ale, our au pair and 6th member of our family, could travel with us. Added bonus of the St Thomas selection: some of our best friends from home, Dee and Patrick, are coincidentally vacationing there at the same time. More to come on that.

Arriving at St Thomas

A few perks of St Thomas – direct flights from Dulles and same time zone as Richmond. As anyone who’s traveled with kids knows, these may be two of the hugest factors in calculating toddler travel meltdowns. Aside from the 3am wakeup to catch the 9am out of Dulles, traveling here was easy peasy. (I say that cautiously knowing there’s still a trip home to be had.)

Amir rented a three-row SUV from Budget. Things aren’t cheap here, but everything is essentially a 30 minute drive or less. We figured a rental would give us flexibility to explore since we’re staying at an AirBnB, not a resort with built-in shuttles.

They drive on the left side of the road here, but unlike the UK, the steering wheels are still on the left. Despite the small size of the island and its roads, cars and SUVs are just as big as mainland US. I plan to dig into just why that is.

Sea View on the Northern Coast

Sea View was easy to find. The roads winding up and down the mountains with breathtaking views of the sea immediately brought me back to those guardrail-less cliffs in Crete, Greece. As I’ve noted in a multitude of past posts, Amir is a great driver in an unknown environment. I learned that early on when we were duty partners on the ambulance.

Sea View is as-advertised

As soon as we arrived, I could barely get my sunscreen and suit on before the kids were jumping into the pool. I planned ahead and brought lifejackets for #1BigBrother and #1LittleSister since I knew we’d be doing a good amount of snorkeling. I have a 1:1 non-swimmer to adult rule without lifejackets. Since it was 3:1 this afternoon, the lifejackets went on.

Amir headed to the grocery store almost as soon as we arrived here. We’d barely eaten breakfast, missed lunch, and were about to be eaten by a pack of hungry children. We were warned that groceries are expensive yet still didn’t expect the level of sticker shock. At the Cost-U-Less supermarket, a box of Ritz crackers costs $12, a dozen eggs $15 and somehow a handle of decent rum only $10.

Amir grilled up cheeseburgers on the poolside grill, and Ale finally showed some skills in the kitchen/bar arena, making us all “Pain-Killer” cocktails.

We’re all exhausted from the day – understandably so. We have no plans to wake up by any particular time for any particular reason. If we make it out to a local beach where we can snorkel, that will be a major win.

~Steph

France Day 9: Honfleur Farmers Market & Saint-Adresse Beach

Today was our last full day here – tomorrow is all travel back to Paris to return our rental van and fly back to the States. I think all of us are slowing down – lots of sun, food and play… home is starting to call.

The vegetable stall at the morning market

Every Wednesday and Saturday morning, right in front of the wooden church from yesterday, Sainte-Catherine, there’s a local market at 8am. We went on a Wednesday, but my online research tells me the Saturday market is a bit bigger. The market features local farmers, butchers, bakers and artisans selling jewelry, textiles and pottery. The local cideries and vineyards also come out with a wide offering of spirits. We grabbed some leafy lettuce and giant green onions for a salad, a few baguettes of course, and some homemade quiche.

But our menu wasn’t quite complete. Amir’s been eyeing the giant spider crabs ever since we arrived, and today seemed like the perfect day. Our lunch special guest came precooked, and “checked” by the pêcheur. Checked for what, I suspect I’d rather not know.

Those barnacles have been there a while…

Neither of us ever having eaten a spider crab, we underestimated the caliber if crab cracking tools we’d need to break into this bad boy. Traditional silver crab crackers were akin to a butter knife sawing through titanium. The shell is probably 8 times as thick as a snow crab, nothing we used could penetrate the perimeter. Amir went in search of better tools, and ultimate found success using a 12” diameter garden stone. VICTORY!

The king and his feast (check out that salad bowl)

There was of course more swimming after lunch, some forced naps, and a cocktail for me. Yesterday I took a chance on a bottle of Limoncello with Calvados. We first sampled Calvados during our side car adventure. It’s a French eau de vie produced in Normandy which is distilled from cider or perry and aged for a minimum of two or three years. Minimum alcohol content: 40% ABV. It packs a punch.

Around 5:30pm, we set off in the van for a 45 minute ride across the suspension bridge to Sainte-Adresse. We’d eaten a heavy lunch, so we were only interested in charcuterie and dessert. Amir again used a Google Maps to find Le Panorama, a small patio restaurant, full of people and posh dogs, with as the name says, panoramic views of the Seine. We watched cruise ships, sailboats and cargo tankers battle for right of way – paddle boarders and sunbathers laying claim to the rocky shore.

#1LittleSister explores “big rocks”
You can park your moto in front of Le Panorama

After some good rock throwing and stone stacking, the day was growing late and bedtime well-past blown. Amir fetched the van – door to door drop off service thanks to his mom being along.

Tomorrow we need to leave here between 9 and 10 am to ensure we have enough time to return the rental and check in for our international flight. Somehow we’ve already reached that part of the trip that forces me to reflect and process. But for now I’ll keep my mind occupied packing and cleaning. There’s plenty of time up in the air tomorrow for that work.

~Steph

One last go-round on the carousel

France Days 7&8: Paying respect to Allies + Butterflies & Birds at Naturospace Honfleur

We were on the go all day yesterday in Normandy, exploring Sword Beach and appreciating the military feat and sacrifice by so many that made D-Day a success. Being here now, seeing the signs saying “Let us never forget,” and knowing that back home many are inching towards repeating this past is just…

We are here at the site of the storming of the beach just two weeks after the 80th anniversary, yet I get the sense that the spirit you feel walking through the town exists year round.

The long walk down to the shore is lined by first hand accounts of survivors of that day – French, English, American, Canadian… all now nearly 100 years old or thereabout. Amir commented that by the next milestone anniversary, there likely may not be any survivors left. Historical events have different meaning when you can speak to actual survivors or even just those who lived through the era. I try to imagine that beach. What it took to step off those boats, watching men fall to the sand, and still stepping forward. Even with all respect given to their accounts, I know it was 100 times worse.

Normandy Bunkers

Ale had the day off yesterday and spent the day exploring a Honfleur and the beach. We caught up with her for dinner at Le Spot, a casual restaurant in the sand, with blue and white decor, romance novel cover-worthy waiters, and an assortment of tapas and zesty drinks.

Le Spot, Honfleur, France

Somehow the kids talked us into a quick swim at 8pm when we arrived home. Because we are in Northern France, it stays light until after 10pm. It was a little too chilly for my liking – so bath time was a convenient excuse. I edited a few photos, threw them up on Instagram and crashed.


Day 8

This morning Amir ran out to the fish monger to get a selection of fresh catch for dinner tonight. The last two days we’ve eyed up the fresh seafood in the markets, but have waited until too late in the day to have best pick. Our house has two outside grills, and he plans to make the most of them.

This morning we drove into Honfleur to visit the Naturospace Garden, home to exotic butterflies, tropical birds and flowers.

Spend the money and buy a few packs of fish food, whether you have little ones with you or not. The koi are huge and have big personalities, but only if you bribe them.

Feeding the koi

At Naturospace, don’t just look straight ahead or at the butterflies dancing around you. Look up to see a wide variety of colorful birds, and as #1BigSister reminded me from our Lewis Ginter butterfly visits, look down as well to ensure you don’t squish anyone.

We walked just a block to have lunch at Amore Mio as the kids were craving pizza, and I just wanted some atmosphere. I ordered the truffle and boratta pizza, while Ale and Amir both picked a pizza with spicy sausage and Gorgonzola.

Aperol orange dots the decor at Amore Mio
Truffle and buratta pizza

After lunch we circled back to a special church we first saw online when planning our trip and again on our side car tour, Église Sainte-Catherine, one of the rare European churches built entirely of wood. Its oldest parts date to the mid 15th century when townsmen, who were fishermen not architects, didn’t know how to build a traditional cathedral ceiling.using the techniques they knew, they created a ceiling from two upside down ships. They were concerned the wood might not support the weight of the church bell, so they erected a separate bell tower that is now one of the highest points in Honfleur, attracting frequent lightening strikes.

Church of Sainte Catherine, Honfleur, France

Back at the house, most of the crew went swimming while Amir prepped the fresh fish for the grill. I bought a tiny bug house with a magnifying glass at the Naturosphere gift shop which upon arrival home had many a budding David Attenborough ready to hunt for friends.

First I found a plump earthworm… but Ale had to outdo me and capture a bumble bee who would suck nectar from flowers then try to escape its new little world. The question arose, “Who is going to let him go?” to which I had an interesting immediate answer: “the one who caught him.”

Grill master

We enjoyed dinner on the back veranda, a fish new to us all called “bar,” mackerel, sausages and an assortment of cheeses and fresh strawberries. Oh and wine.

Tomorrow is our last day here. In true vacation mode, I have no idea what day of the week it is but do know I have a few days off after we get back to recover.

~Steph

France Day 6: Chilly dips and a side car trip

We spent the morning exploring the property and googling how to operate the dishwasher. The temperature at 9:30 am was just 65 degrees, yet the kids convinced both of us to open the pool and swim.

Grandma and Ale kept watch poolside, towels at the ready for little ones with purple lips and chattering teeth.

Today we had 2:30 pm reservations for a major bucket list item of mine – riding in a motorcycle side car, goggles and all. 

I can’t even remember when I first mentioned it to Amir, but it was for certain more than 7 years ago. Apparently he logged it in the back of his brain and held on to it for just the right time. For my birthday Monday, he even wrapped up a little Indiana Jones motorcycle side car toy to reveal our upcoming adventure.

We parked the mega van and walked along the harbor, checkout the seafood markets and historical markers along the way. 

The area is busy with sailboats, café onlookers, dogs on leashes and a parade of rare and expensive sports cars. We picked a random restaurant to grab a bite, atmosphere and efficiency taking priority over haute cuisine. We lucked out and got all three.

We also squeezed in a quick spin on the merry-go-round, our second one this trip.

#1LittleSister wasn’t old enough to ride in the side car, so she stayed back with Grandma. The rest of us spread out in three side cars, each driven by a gentleman from the rental company, Retro Tour Normandy.

The tour lasts 1.5 hours, with stops at two historical sites and a cidery. The drivers were also tour guides, providing historical details and humor.


Chapelle Notre-Dame de Grâce

First stop was up the hill to see the Chapelle Notre-Dame de Grâce. Dedicated to Mary by fishermen for hundreds of years, the interior reflects exactly that. The park surrounding the chapel is gorgeous as well. #1BigSister loved picking wild flowers while #1BigBrother checked out the lookout.

The next stop delivered on panoramic views as well. I’ll have to ask Amir the name of it tomorrow and do an edit as it’s escaping me now.

The last stop of the trip was to the Cidre Pommeau Calvados, a 4th generation cidery, featuring sprawling apple orchards and cascading rose bushes.

We parked right up front

I’m hoping to convince Amir to write a post tomorrow. He’s such a treasure of historical knowledge, especially WWII. I wish I could have held on to the historical accounts shared with us today, but my brain is full of mom and doctor things, without room for much else.

So, as usual, I leave you with some odds & ends photos (plus a reel)…

France Day 5: Disneyland Paris & a Rendezvous with Grandma in Honfleur

We checked out of our AirBnB at 8:30am, and for consistency sake, the host was late again. She must be on café time. No matter, our Uber driver was enjoying a croissant in the boulangerie, so we had time to spare.

Uber to our rental car (actually an 8 person van)

First thing be question that needs to be answered – yes, Euro Disney is the same place as Disneyland Paris. I never realized the name had changed until we came here for the first time today. Wikipedia tells me that Disney dropped the “Euro” from the name in 1994 due to lagging sales and some branding issues.

“Michael Eisner noted, “As Americans, the word ‘Euro’ is believed to mean glamorous or exciting. For Europeans it turned out to be a term they associated with business, currency, and commerce. Renaming the park ‘Disneyland Paris’ was a way of identifying it with one of the most romantic and exciting cities in the world.”

Makes sense. While true, you do bleed euro while there, but probably best not to be quite so explicit about it.

We arrived at Disneyland just as the morning parade passed by. I half pushed for us to march on to a more exciting ride and am so glad no one listened to me. This was more of a Broadway production on wheels than a parade. There were enormous animatronic parade floats for each Disney movie, with street dancers in exotic costumes and music selected to get a party started. I was feeling silly when I reluctantly admitted that the parade made me cry – but then Ale confessed she cried too.

After the parade, #1BigSister and her dad were ready for excitement. First stop, Orbitron, which was probably the scariest ride available to even the smallest in our crew.

It was while waiting in the regular line at Orbitron we discovered a little something called Premier Access. I’ve always been a bit of a hater when it comes to paying to jump the line – feels like lines should be reasonable just given how much you pay to get into a place to start with – but Amir wanted to do it. Fortunately there’s an option for buying it one at a time for each ride (5€-17€/person depending on ride) vs the default which is 90€/person for the whole day.

We spent a little less than 5 hours at Disneyland as today is technically a travel day to our next French destination, Honfleur.

We stopped by the Moxy Hotel at Charles De Galle to pick up Amir’s mom, Julia. She flew over from the US yesterday to rendezvous with us before our drive to the countryside. Our AirBnB in Honfleur has plenty of extra room, so we invited our moms along. My mom wasn’t able to make it, but I’m sure will be envious of the amount of bread, butter and wine about to happen.

10 minutes into the ride

We picked Julia up with just a small hitch – we could only find the rear of the hotel, not the front, so it wasn’t the most glamorous arrival.

The drive to our house in Honfleur was 2.5 hours, plus a 20 minute stop a few kilometers out of town to grab some groceries.

One of my favorite parts of AirBnB rentals, especially ones with some acreage, is exploring the home and the grounds. Unfortunately by the time we arrived it was nearly 9pm, we still had to make and eat dinner, do baths, bedtime and unpack. So, no exploring yet on my part. That gives me something to look forward to with my morning coffee tomorrow.

~Steph

Our AirBnB in Honfleur