Today we took the train to Billund, Denmark, the home of THE Legoland. It requires a bit of finagling to get to from Copenhagen – 2 or 3 train connections plus a short stint on a bus. Amir thankfully is a great navigator on all our trips. He can look at a route ahead of time (when internet is accessible) and navigate across an entire country from just Google Maps screenshots.
We dedicated today to travel with the goal of getting to Billund with time to check in to our hotel, grab some dinner at MINI CHEF, and unwind for a big day tomorrow.
Jeff told us about MINI CHEF last night. Here’s how it works:
1. Pick one block of each color to build your meal. Kids get an extra special surprise yellow block.
2. Stack your blocks in the tray and load it into the computer to create your meal.
3. The computer detects your creation and little LEGO chefs build your meal.
4. A few minutes later, it appears on a conveyor belt where two friendly robots then deliver it to you.
5. Bring your meal back to your table and enjoy!
The whole dining area has activities for the kids within reach. Books, little LEGOs, big LEGOs, there’s lots to keep the kids busy while dinner is prepared.
MINI CHEF is located inside LEGO House, which features a coffee shop, LEGO store and six zones of fun inside the main portion of LEGO House. You don’t need to buy a ticket to LEGO House to be able to eat at MINI CHEF or the cafe.
There’s a small LEGO store located inside LEGO House. All the favorites are available there including StarWars, LEGO Movie, Harry Potter and more.
Tomorrow morning we’ll walk a short distance from our hotel, Hotel Svanen, to Legoland to spend the day.
We went to bed last night at 9pm exhausted and with #1Toddler just having napped half the day. Needless to say we weren’t expecting much, if any, sleep.
We awoke at 11am, (yup, you read that right) despite the sun peering into our room since 4am. 14 hours of blissful sleep on hotel sheets. Our toddler parent dreams come true.
As mentioned yesterday, we packed a tad too lightly for the cool weather, so the goal today was shopping, then hot dogs and if energy – culture and World Cup. We accomplished all of the above with a little help from H&M, a friendly street vendor and Jeff & Nadja, our hosts.
On our way to the shopping district, we passed through Nyhavn, a pedestrian friendly street lined with cafes, musicians and people pausing to converse and enjoy the water. You can take a canal tour if you prefer the view from the water.
We always look out for toy stores along our walk. They provide a needed break from the bustle of pedestrians, cars and bikes (omg the bikes) of the city scene.
We were lucky enough to catch up with Jeff & Nadja after a quick stop at the National Museum. It houses a Children’s Museum within as well as a fantastic exhibit on the Mongolian Empire. #1Toddler’s take on the museum: “Too much scary.” (Lots of skeletons and masks on display).
Unfortunately we got there just an hour before closing and didn’t get to see all it had to offer. It’s conveniently located right next to Ørsteds Park which has multiple swings, slides and a sandbox perfect for antsy toddlers.
After H&M, we enjoyed our obligatory street food adventure with a local hotdog.
We met Jeff & Nadja at a local food market called Torvehallerne. We ordered duck sandwiches x 4 paired with local, unfiltered brown ale drafts.
After dinner we walked to a pub that Jeff was fairly sure would be airing the Women’s World Cup match. USA vs England is a house divided for us and a match not to be missed under any circumstances.
Two pitchers of Carlsberg, one order of very bad nachos and a victory for the good old USA, and we called it a night. Tomorrow we head to THE Legoland.
Phew. We made it. And I say that not because #1Toddler was bad or misbehaving in any way, but because forgot how those Transatlantic flights afford you roughly 2 hours of sleep and packing for 10 days (including fancy attire for a wedding) yields more luggage than our usual.
We’ve travelled to Copenhagen to celebrate the wedding of Amir’s roommate from undergrad, Jeff, also a groomsman in our wedding. Born of Danish blood but in the United States, Jeff moved to Denmark just a few years after finishing college. He met Najda here and never looked back. Having been here In Copenhagen less than 24 hours, I can already see why.
The drive to Dulles was thankfully uneventful, as was the flight from Dulles to Heathrow. No mid-flight cardiac arrests this time. As we entered that same elevator where we met the man who would later die and the woman who would become his widow, I paused and wondered how she has been coping in the 6 months since our paths crossed.
We love connecting in Heathrow ever since discovering their “soft play” areas in multiple terminals. The one thing a toddler really needs after a 6.5 hour transatlantic flight is to run around and let loose. Ask any airport staff member to direct you if you can’t find your way.
The flight from Heathrow to Copenhagen was a tad more taxing for all. Someone cried for the last hour of the flight. Not naming names.
As we’d boarded the flight at Dulles earlier, #1Toddler insightfully asked us, “ears hurt again?” – clearly remembering her last transatlantic flight for our trip to Greece. We both marveled at how she could maintain memories and make connections between similar events 6 months apart. She’s only two, and I can barely remember yesterday.
As we like to do whenever arriving to a new city, we dropped our bags at our hotel and went for a casual walk to explore. We walked the “moats” of Kastellet, a 17th century fortress. I use quotes because the water surrounding this fortress used to serve a defensive purpose, but now filled with lily pads and swans, it’s what draws visitors closer.
Amir has scouted Google Maps for a casual place to stop and grab dinner. Wherever we go, we are always on the hunt for the best casual seafood restaurant with tons of atmosphere. Near home, it’s Merrior in Topping, VA. In Copenhagen it’s Toldbogen. Complete with outdoor space by the water and an inviting interior that mixes salt water fishing with industrial and techno, there’s tons of visual interest. Amir ordered a meat sampler and I the fish n chips. Both came served on a bed of perfectly salted string French fries and with freshly plucked raw veggies draping over top. Simple preparation of delicious ingredients allowed all the natural flavors to speak for themselves.
Tomorrow we have some utilitarian plans. I realized I forgot to pack my Rothys last minute as I’d left them out to dry (hint: they are machine washable flats). So tomorrow I’m on the hunt for walking flats. Oh darn.
I also packed a bit too lightly – we left 95 degree weather in Virginia and arrived to a crisp, lovely 65 degrees here. Daytime will be fine, but the evenings command light layers. To the shopping district I go!
Unfortunately the forecast our last day in Crete called for severe thunderstorms. Given the treacherous nature of the roads even when dry and sunny, we opted not to stray too far from home.
We drove to Kissamos, a small town on the coast just north of where we are staying. There’s an Archeological Museum, seaside walk and plenty of restaurants. Unfortunately for us, while the sign outside said it should be open, the caretaker for the Archeological Museum decided to take the day off, and the museum was closed.
After lunch we walked in search of the local fire station. Despite our start to the trip, we’ve otherwise seen no signs of a medical system. I’ve yet to see a hospital anywhere, and have seen only one ambulance back in Athens. Public services have been scaled back over the years as the Greek economy struggled.
We continued walking towards the beach and passed by the Bishop’s Palace by the seaside.
At first glance, I thought it was a municipal building or home of a celebrity. It was only then I noticed the crosses topping the flagpoles that I realized this was a religious-affiliated building.
We hit the jackpot when we rounded the corner and saw a large public playground with slides, swings and monkey bars. Greece has a fair number of public playgrounds. We’ve run into one at almost every tourist destination.
We opted to drive back early to Villa Irene as we didn’t want to get caught in the rain. As we exited Kissamos, we were able to make a quick stop at a small church built inside of a seaside cave called Cave Church St. John.
The church was built in the 10th century. There’s a natural rock formation that provides a dramatic ceiling for this special church.
I entered the church with the black and white floor carefully. The floor was wet and slippery and the whole area dark.
We made it back to Villa Irene just before the thunderstorm unleashed torrents if rain, wind and lightening on the coast. Our instinct to get home before the storm was on point. Driving in the storm would have been dangerous and nail-biting.
Tonight I’ll start packing up for the flight back to Athens tomorrow. It’s hard to believe our trip is coming to a close.
This morning we awoke to #1 toddler attempting to catapult out of her crib. She still sleeps in a baby crib at home since she seems perfectly happy there. I’m thinking it’s about time to pull the toddler conversion kit down from the attic when we get home.
Amir did some research last night and selected today’s destination. Paleochora, a seaside town featuring Salino Kastelo (Castle Salino), was just a 1.5 hour drive from Villa Irene in Livadia. The only catch, zigzagging the roads that traverse the many mountains in between.
As we’ve been driving these narrow roads in Crete, I’ve noticed all these little roadside shrines, which I now know are called Kandylakia. Most are small shrines dedicated to different saints that serve as street signs to denote that an Greek Orthodox Church is close by, as most are not visible from the road. There are also no street names, so these little landmarks are helpful signposts.
A Google search also incorrectly stated that most are dedicated to lost loved ones, but this is just a false assumption by tourists. There are certainly some that serve this purpose, but most are signposts for larger churches.
We reached Paleochora (Pah-leh-oh-hor-ah) with little difficulty. We parked easily, strapped #1 toddler into the Baby Boba, and climbed a trail of stairs to reach the top of Salino Kastelo.
There wasn’t any signage to guide you through Salino Kastelo, so we weren’t quite sure what was what when we were there. After reading at home, the castle was destroyed and rebuilt multiple times since 1257 AD, which explains why it seemed to be composed of every natural material imaginable. Marble, granite, limestone, gravel, terra cotta – it’s all there.
It’s worth a trip for the views alone, but I recommend reading up on its history before you go.
There’s a vast selection of seaside taverns and cafes in Paleochora. We opted for Olympus Pizzeria for a change of pace, plus we knew pizza would satisfy everyone.
After pizza, as if we weren’t stuffed, we headed to a nearby family café for dessert. Baklava and vanilla gelato called our names, along with a cappuccino for me and a latte for Amir.
After the drive home from Paleochora, somehow we were all there filled with energy. Mind you at this same time yesterday my co-travelers were both taking 3 hour naps.
We opted for a brief walk from our house towards the sea. The first night we arrived, there were goats grazing throughout this area. Yesterday they had completely vanished, but today they returned. We went for a visit.
Before we made it 20 feet, #1 Toddler was fast asleep in the Boba carrier. She didn’t miss any great encounters with goats or sheep. We could see them in the distance and hear their bells, but with the sun silhouetting them, there wasn’t much to see or photograph.
While we didn’t find many goats, we did find a hidden gem carved into the seaside cliffs, St Anthony Chapel. Unfortunately we weren’t able to get closer to it, not for a lack of desire, but because we are not rock climbers. There’s no clear path. I’m still desperately wondering what’s inside. A Google Maps search did provide a close up photo from a much more adventurous traveler than I.
We made it home in time to watch the sunset from our Villa while enjoying a glass of local red wine. We still need to plan tomorrow. So I’m off to search Google Maps via satellite view to see what hidden places we can explore.