Tag: adventure

Switzerland Day 16: Touching the Sky at Mont Fort

Today was all about going up.

Our destination was Mont Fort, one of the highest lift-accessible viewpoints in Switzerland, sitting at 3,330 meters (10,925 feet) above sea level. Getting there was an adventure in itself, requiring three different ski lifts.

Our three-part route in green

We started in Siviez (1,730 m) on a classic four-person chairlift to Tortin (2,050 m). From there, we boarded a large gondola—big enough not only for passengers but also strollers, dogs, and mountain bikes—which carried us to Col des Gentianes (2,950 m). The final leg was a smaller gondola climbing to the summit of Mont Fort.

Team Girls!

Of the three lifts, the old-fashioned chairlift was my favorite. Being out in the open, you could feel the cool alpine air, hear the rushing streams below, listen to cowbells echoing across the valley, and even catch conversations from hikers passing underneath. It was the longest ride and gave us plenty of time to soak it all in.

At one point we floated over a pasture full of cows, where two enormous bulls were locked in a battle while one particularly unlucky cow did her best to stay well out of the way. Nature’s version of reality television.

Cows with bells battle

One thing Switzerland does exceptionally well is efficiency. We bought our lift tickets once at the base, then simply scanned them at automated turnstiles before each lift. Every transfer was seamless.

Riding in the larger of the two Gondolas

Before boarding the final gondola, Lidia, #1BigSister, and I stopped to collect our zipline equipment. #1BigBrother and #1LittleSister were too young to participate, and Amir graciously volunteered to stay with them while the three of us tackled what had become the biggest adventure of the trip.

The Mont 4 Zipline claims several world records depending on how they’re measured, but what makes it unique is that it begins at one of the highest starting elevations of any zipline in the world. Watching people launch from the gondola below was intimidating enough that I briefly considered backing out. But I knew this was probably my one and only opportunity to do something like this, and I would regret letting fear win.

#1BigSister gets prepped

Before our scheduled launch, Amir wisely insisted we make time for the observation deck at the summit.

I’m so glad he did.

From the top, you can see the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc, the Grand Combin, and countless other Alpine peaks stretching in every direction. It is one of those places where photos simply cannot capture the scale.

The summit itself feels almost extraterrestrial.

View from the summit of Mont Font

The closest comparison I can make is that it felt like walking on the moon. There is almost no vegetation. Just rock, ice, glaciers, and patches of snow. Every now and then a lone butterfly would flutter by, leaving me wondering how on earth it had made its way to nearly 11,000 feet.

Adding to the surreal experience was the full-service (fairly fancy) restaurant perched near the summit. People casually enjoyed fondue, white wine, and long conversations while surrounded by a landscape that looked more like another planet than Earth. I couldn’t help wondering how they managed to get all the supplies up there. Gondola? Helicopter? Either way, it was impressive.

Fondue and wine at the summit

Then it was time.

Lidia went first.

#1BigSister followed.

I was last.

Lidia readies herself

I had planned to capture all three launches using my Meta glasses. Unfortunately, I couldn’t hear the recording chime over the wind. Instead of starting new videos, I accidentally stopped previous recordings and completely missed their launches.

Thankfully, by the time it was my turn, I had finally figured it out and managed to record my own ride.

The initial drop off the tower is over almost instantly before gravity takes over. Within seconds you’re flying at speeds approaching 60 mph (100 km/h). I quickly understood why they recommend long pants and a jacket. Even on a warm day, the wind at that speed is surprisingly cold.

They also provide goggles if you don’t have sunglasses because opening your eyes at those speeds isn’t easy. And if you make the mistake of opening your mouth, your cheeks inflate like a squirrel storing acorns for winter.

Zip line overlook

On previous adventures—whether ziplining at Camp Seafarer or paragliding in Costa Rica—I had been brave enough to strike the dramatic “starfish” pose with my arms spread wide.

Not today.

Today I held onto those straps for dear life.

The arrival was wonderfully anticlimactic. The braking system automatically slows you before you reach the landing platform, making for a smooth, gentle finish.

What surprised me most was how peaceful it was.

From below, it looks terrifying.

From the line itself, it feels surprisingly serene.

I’m incredibly glad I took the leap.

Afterward, the rest of the family rode the gondolas down to meet us. Our plan had been to celebrate with burgers at the restaurant beside the zipline station, but it happened to be closed. So we descended one gondola ride to Tortin, where we found a wonderful Italian restaurant serving pizza, lasagna, soup, sandwiches, beer, cider, and wine. Pizza is always a safe bet with our crew, and the attached playground made it an even bigger success.

The moon?

One thing we’ve noticed throughout Switzerland is that restaurants frequently include playgrounds, trampolines, or inflatable bounce houses. Families are clearly expected to linger.

Italian café at Tortin

At the same time, we’ve also noticed a cultural difference compared with Spain and Italy. In Spain and Italy, when one of our kids accidentally bumped into someone, it almost always led to smiles, funny faces, or affectionate interactions. Here in Switzerland, we’ve had several encounters where adults—particularly older adults—seemed noticeably less tolerant of even minor accidental bumps, including one on today’s gondola ride. It’s certainly not everyone, but it has been a noticeable contrast. Thankfully, the incredible playgrounds have more than made up for it from the kids’ perspective.

Cow counting from the lift

The drive back to our chalet was every bit as spectacular as the journey up.

Amir asked me to film a time-lapse as we descended the endless switchbacks. The winding mountain roads reminded both of us of driving through Crete several years ago. Amir has handled every mile of driving on this trip, and today he admitted these were the most challenging mountain roads he has ever driven. Coming from him, that got my attention. If he posts the finished time-lapse, I’ll come back and add it here because it’s worth seeing.

After our enormous Italian lunch, none of us were especially hungry for dinner. We simply picked at leftover cheese, sausage, bread, yogurt, and whatever else remained in the refrigerator at the chalet.

Tomorrow we leave the mountains behind.

We’ll pack up and begin making our way toward Zurich for the flight home, with one final stop planned at a Swiss chocolate factory along the way.

Gondola up to Mont Fort

Before this trip, I assumed that after more than two weeks away I’d be counting the hours until we got home. We usually travel for only ten to twelve days, and this has been our longest family vacation ever.

Surprisingly, I don’t feel ready for it to end.

I think I easily have another few days of adventure left in me.

But tonight the plan is simple: one last soak in the hot tub, finish the laundry, pack the suitcases, and get a good night’s sleep before one final Swiss adventure awaits.

~Steph

Switzerland Day 15: Underground Lakes, Medieval Castles, and Sticker Shock

Today began underground.

Our first stop was the Lac Souterrain de Saint-Léonard, the largest navigable underground lake in Europe. If you’re planning a visit, reserve your tickets in advance. The boats have limited seating, tours often sell out, and with timed entry, there was virtually no waiting once we arrived.

The tour itself lasts about 30 minutes. We had dressed in layers after reading that the cave stays cool year-round, and we were glad we did. The contrast from the summer heat outside was immediate.

Our guide was just 17 years old and effortlessly conducted the tour in French, German, and English. What an impressive young man. Switzerland’s multilingual culture was on full display.

Our rower and tour guide

The underground lake stretches roughly 300 meters (about 1,000 feet) and was discovered in 1943 by Swiss speleologist Jean-Jacques Pittard. At the time, the water level was too high for boats to navigate the cave. Then, in 1946, an earthquake created cracks in the cave floor, lowering the water level just enough to allow small boats to pass. Sometimes nature rewrites the tourist guidebook.

Before leaving, we wandered through the gift shop, which was surprisingly charming and definitely worth a quick look.

From Saint-Léonard, it was just a 15-minute drive to Sion, a beautiful valley town watched over by two historic landmarks perched on neighboring hills.

Château de Tourbillon

On one hill stands Château de Tourbillon, a fortified castle built between 1297 and 1308 by the bishops of Sion. Originally constructed as both a military stronghold and the bishop’s residence, it commanded sweeping views of the Rhône Valley and served as a powerful symbol of the church’s authority. Although much of the castle was destroyed in a devastating fire in 1788, its stone ruins remain remarkably impressive, and ongoing restoration continues to preserve this piece of Swiss history.

Basilique de Valère in the distance

Across the valley sits the Basilique de Valère, built between approximately 1100 and 1130. More fortress than church in appearance, the basilica served both religious and defensive purposes during the Middle Ages. It is home to one of the oldest playable pipe organs in the world, dating back to the 15th century, and has been an important pilgrimage site for centuries. Walking through its ancient stone walls, it’s impossible not to imagine the generations who climbed the same path long before us.

Inside the basilica

Amir was determined to tackle the climb to Tourbillon Castle despite the 90-degree heat and the altitude. The rest of us were a bit less ambitious. We settled into a café where the kids enjoyed ice cream while Lidia and I cooled off with Aperol Spritzes.

Not sorry

Eventually, Lidia and #1 Big Brother decided they wanted to join Amir after all. As Lidia wisely pointed out, she may never have another chance to visit this place. Opportunities like this aren’t meant to be watched from a café.

View of the valley from Château de Tourbillon

Meanwhile, the two girls and I finished our treats and opted for the gentler climb to Valère Basilica instead. With more shade and a slightly more forgiving ascent, it felt like the right choice for us.

As always, the climb proved worthwhile. Whether you conquer the castle or the basilica, the reward is the same: panoramic views of the valley, vineyards stretching into the distance, and the satisfaction of knowing you earned them. Everyone returned with huge smiles—and, of course, enough photos to prove their accomplishment.

On the drive home, we stopped at the grocery store to pick up dinner. One thing we’ve learned quickly is that Switzerland is breathtaking… and breathtakingly expensive. After paying 25 CHF (about $30) for each of two small plates of plain penne with tomato sauce for the kids at lunch, we unanimously decided tonight would be a home-cooked meal.

Town of Sion, Switzerland

Amir fired up the outdoor grill, cooking two kinds of Swiss sausage, chicken satay, and a spread of delicious sides. We finished dinner with chocolate biscuits from the chocolate factory we’ll be touring before we leave—a little preview of what’s to come.

Tomorrow promises another adventure as we head to Mont Fort to ride one of the world’s longest and highest zip lines. At nearly 0.87 miles long and speeds approaching 60 mph, it should be equal parts breathtaking and terrifying.

I’ll let you know which one wins.

~Steph

Day 7: Dinosaurs, Zip Lines, and Flip-Flops

Today we ventured farther west from Autol, driving about 45 minutes through the beautiful countryside of La Rioja to Barranco Perdido, a one-of-a-kind dinosaur adventure park. The drive alone was worth the trip, winding through vineyards, rocky cliffs, and rolling hills that somehow become more beautiful around every bend.

This region of Spain is famous for its incredible concentration of dinosaur fossils. Millions of years ago, the landscape was a muddy, wet environment rather than the dry, rocky terrain it is today. Those muddy conditions perfectly preserved the footprints of dinosaurs that once wandered here, along with seashells and countless other fossils from an ancient world. It’s amazing to think that a place now surrounded by vineyards was once home to dinosaurs.

El Barranco Perdido offers an interesting mix of activities. Visitors can purchase a day pass that includes several swimming pools with water slides, plus a choice between a paleontology experience or an aerial adventure park with climbing platforms, bridges, and zip lines.

Unfortunately, we arrived a little later than planned, so we had to choose carefully how to spend our afternoon. We asked the kids whether they wanted the educational paleontology experience or the adventure park.

Adventure park won by a landslide.

We started at the swimming pools, which turned out to be the perfect way to escape the afternoon heat. The water was cool and refreshing, the pools were surprisingly uncrowded, and everyone had room to spread out. Amir and I couldn’t resist racing down the water slides before retreating to lounge chairs while the kids happily swam for hours.

One feature that really impressed me was how thoughtfully the park was designed for families. They know that adults actually want to enjoy the ropes course too, so they offer a supervised mini adventure camp for younger children who aren’t quite tall enough for the larger course.

Our youngest couldn’t have cared less that she didn’t speak the same language as the other children. Within seconds she was happily climbing a miniature rock wall, digging for dinosaurs in a giant sandbox, decorating a dinosaur mask, and participating in an all-out water blaster battle. She barely even waved goodbye before disappearing into the fun.

That left the four of us free to tackle the aerial adventure course.

#1BigSister on the zip line

After a quick lesson on harnesses, carabiners, and safety procedures, the staff took one look at my completely inappropriate footwear—gold leather flip-flops—and my crossbody purse.

Apparently neither was a deal breaker.

“Just sign here.”

It felt like they had learned a little something from the American legal system. Sign the waiver, acknowledge every possible risk, and off you go.

To my surprise, I wasn’t nearly as terrible at the course as I expected. Amir and our oldest had done something similar before, but this was my first experience navigating ropes, swinging bridges, and elevated platforms. I figured out the carabiner system quickly and managed to clip and unclip my safety lines without incident. Despite the flip-flops, I never slipped, fell, or found myself dangling helplessly in front of my family.

I decided not to push my luck by climbing the vertical rock wall that led to the zip-line tower. Some risks simply aren’t worth taking while wearing vacation sandals.

The giant carpet slide at the top of the mountain

I did, however, brave the giant enclosed carpet slide. The climb to the top rewarded us with spectacular views across the surrounding valley, and the ride back down was every bit as fun as the kids promised it would be.

By the time we finished, everyone was happily exhausted.

View from atop the entrance to the slide

On the drive back to Autol, we stopped by Doner Kebab for an easy takeaway dinner before returning to the house. We ate outside overlooking the pool, enjoyed one last evening swim, packed our suitcases, and said goodbye to Daniel, Lidia’s boyfriend, who had welcomed us so warmly during our stay.

Tomorrow we leave La Rioja behind and head east toward Peñíscola for the next chapter of our Spanish adventure. While we’re excited to see somewhere new, it’s hard to believe our time in Autol is already coming to an end. This little town—and especially Lidia’s wonderful family—has given us a glimpse of Spain that few tourists ever get to experience, and it’s something we’ll never forget.

~Steph

Day 3: Road Trip to Autol “¿Ya llegamos?”

Today we traded the energy of Barcelona for the open road. We slowly packed up our Airbnb, still mourning England’s loss, and somehow fit six people and what felt like half our possessions into a rented Mercedes V-Class van, and pointed ourselves four hours west toward Autol, the hometown of our au pair, Lidia.

Traveling as a family of six has taught us one thing: a normal rental car simply isn’t an option. Between three kids, six suitcases, backpacks, snacks, and all the miscellaneous things that seem to multiply every day, the Mercedes van isn’t a luxury—it’s a necessity. It feels enormous until every seat is occupied and every inch of cargo space is full.

Lidia’s family has been counting down the hours for our arrival. Our phones have been buzzing with excited messages all day: ”¿Dónde estáis?” (“Where are you?”) and ”¡Os esperamos!” (“We’re waiting for you!”). Their excitement has made the drive feel like we’re not just visiting another town—we’re being welcomed home.

The soundtrack for today’s journey has been equal parts Benito Kamelas and Apple’s Spain Top 100 playlist. Somewhere between rock anthems and Spanish pop hits, the scenery rolled by in shades of gold, green, and dusty hills.

Waiting for our giant van

Of course, no family road trip is complete without the universal question that transcends every language on Earth.

“Are we there yet?”

Every ten minutes.

Seriously—why do children everywhere, regardless of nationality, seem to receive this programming at birth?

About halfway through the drive we stopped at one of Spain’s roadside service areas. Calling it a “rest stop” almost feels unfair. These aren’t rows of fast-food chains and vending machines. They’re more like casual cafés serving real food, just quickly.

Lunch was simple and delicious: jamón y brie on fresh French baguettes, crispy croquetas de jamón y queso that the woman at the register happily popped into the oven for us, and wonderfully hot café con leche to keep the adults going. Fresh bread, good coffee, warm croquetas—it was exactly what a road trip should taste like.

We didn’t need fuel just yet, though the van’s diesel tank will eventually remind us that our adventure is only beginning.

For now, we’re back on the highway, music playing, kids asking if we’re there yet, and a family in Autol waiting with open arms.

Sometimes the best part of travel isn’t the famous destination. Sometimes it’s the road between two places, good coffee in hand, Spanish music on the speakers, and knowing that somewhere ahead, people are genuinely excited to see you.

Hasta pronto, Autol. We’re almost there… I think.

~Steph

Costa Rica Day 6: Zion Paragliding

Well, it’s time for my semi-annual guest-post. But what a day to blog about.

The adventure actually started yesterday when Lidia and I made our way down to the town of Dominical. One of the activities we had noticed immediately after booking this particular AirBnB was “Zion Paragliding” nearby – we made bookings for flights on consecutive days (someone would need to stay back with the littles). Unfortunately, the sky was overcast, and when we arrived at the designated meeting point I received a text – “Sorry but the weather isn’t good today – can you rebook?” Sigh. Sure.

But being April 1st, and returning more than an hour early, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to prank Steph and Evie with a story about a failed jump, bodies in the canopy, and all flights being cancelled while the authorities investigate.

Morning moonrise

This morning I was delighted to wake up to clear, sunny skies and a light breeze. We set off again with fingers crossed for the 10am rendezvous with our pilots, knowing Steph and Evie’s afternoon booking hinged entirely upon the success or failure of our own mission.

Three guys met us at Mama Toucan’s Organic Grocery right on time – a Frenchman, a Spaniard and an Argentinian – all multilingual and with 30+ years of experience between them despite their combined ages seeming to be about 40. We piled into their Land Cruiser with chute packs on the roof and set off on a 20 minute drive up a very, very, very steep hill to the jump point.

The view from the top of the mountain was incredible – we could see all the way to Quepos, an hour’s drive away, where we went fishing (not catching) a few days earlier. We scribbled on a couple of waivers, knowing if anything went seriously wrong there wouldn’t be much left of us to worry about a lawsuit. And, without much need for a briefing, we were strapped in and running off the edge of a cliff within ten minutes.

Lidia’s flight

With the wing open above, it wasn’t nearly as much of a plummeting drop as I had imagined. Rather, we just stepped off the side and floated away. I was immediately struck by just how calm and comfortable it was. The harness is designed like a seat, with an air cushion on the bottom (more on that later), and my pilot, Chase, said to just sit back into the harness and get comfortable. So I did. If Aladdin had a flying settee instead of a carpet, it would feel exactly like that.

Amir and Pilot Chase

Lidia had jumped before me and was already floating along with her pilot, Fernando, spiraling up into thermals and gliding over the jungle. We were able to look down and find our house, knowing Steph and the kids were down there waving up at us. Sadly, we couldn’t hear them screaming “LIDIAAAAAA!!!”

“LIDIAAAAAA!”

After about 20 minutes of soaring, we made our way down towards the primary landing zone at Dominical Beach. I watched Lidia gently touch down, then lined up for our own approach. The pilot told me to just lift my feet and let the airbag do the rest – we glided down over the beach, flared, and set down gently on the sand.

Needless to say, we were both beaming when we got home, telling Steph and Evie – who up to this point had been a bit lukewarm on the whole idea (not helped by the prior day’s hilarious prank) – that this is an opportunity not to miss. We showed them a few videos and our lack of injuries, and they were sold.

Steph and Evie set off for the afternoon booking which seemed just as incredible – perhaps more so as they were able to climb all the way into the clouds and maneuver together for some formation flying. The look on Evie’s face in the videos captured by her pilot’s GoPro made the entire trip a success as far as I’m concerned. Worth. Every. Penny.

Evie’s takeoff

There may have been a minor incident involving a dead dog, broken glass, and threats of bodily harm to conclude their experience, but that’s a story for another day. Pura vida.

~Amir

Brave 9 year old