After an afternoon of splashing in the Mediterranean, racing down the slide on our paddle boat, and soaking up the sun, we made our way back to the casilla. The cool pool was exactly what we needed after a hot day at the beach, and before long, everyone had drifted off for a well-earned Spanish siesta. By now, we’ve learned that the rhythm of life here isn’t just a tradition—it’s survival during the summer heat.

As the evening cooled, we set out on foot toward the crown jewel of Peñíscola: its magnificent castle. Perched high on a rocky peninsula and surrounded by the sea on three sides, the fortress has watched over this coastline for more than 700 years. Originally built by the Knights Templar between 1294 and 1307 on the remains of an earlier Muslim fortress, it later became famous as the home of Pope Benedict XIII—better known as Pope Luna—who continued to claim the papacy from these walls during the Western Schism. Walking through its gates, it felt less like visiting a tourist attraction and more like stepping into a living medieval city.

The climb wound through impossibly narrow stone streets, polished smooth and shiny by centuries upon centuries of footsteps. Every uneven stone seemed to tell a story. No cars are allowed within the castle walls—and after seeing the winding alleys for ourselves, it’s obvious they couldn’t fit even if they tried. Every corner opened onto another tiny plaza, flower-filled balcony, or breathtaking glimpse of the Mediterranean below.

Jesús has a friend who owns several restaurants inside the castle walls, so when he heard our party of nine was coming, he directed us to one of his quieter restaurants tucked away from the busiest streets. It felt like discovering a hidden gem. Inside, cured jamón legs hung from the ceiling, and only one other table was occupied, making the evening feel relaxed and intimate.

Dinner quickly became one of those meals we’ll remember for years. Plate after plate arrived to share: several varieties of jamón, octopus, squid, and even caballo for the adventurous among us. The unanimous favorite, however, was the crispy patatas bravas, disappearing almost as quickly as they reached the table. A pitcher of sangria completed the experience, and we lingered over dinner, enjoying both the food and the company.

Afterward, we wandered through the illuminated streets of the castle. The children were captivated by a street magician whose tricks drew gasps and laughter, then stumbled upon a charming puppet show that held their attention far longer than we expected. Naturally, the evening ended with what everyone agreed was the best ice cream in town. While the kids happily devoured their cones, the adults settled into a nearby café. Some of us lingered over coffee, while others relaxed with a cerveza or a vodka tonic, soaking in the atmosphere of a medieval fortress that somehow feels just as alive today as it must have centuries ago.

It was the perfect ending to another unforgettable day in Spain.

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Aquarama Adventure

Aquarama turned out to be the perfect-sized waterpark. It had a great variety of slides—tall and short, open and enclosed, gentle and heart-pounding. One thing that really stood out was that they limit the number of tickets sold each day, so the park never felt overcrowded and the lines stayed surprisingly manageable. Lifeguards in fluorescent yellow shirts and bright red shorts were stationed throughout the park, friendly, professional, and bilingual in both Spanish and English.

Watching them brought back a flood of memories. Once upon a time, I was a waterpark lifeguard during my college summers. What started as a fun seasonal job with a great social scene unexpectedly became my full-time career after graduating from UVA, when my management consulting job with PwC disappeared as the dot-com bubble burst in 2001. Overnight, many of us with impressive job offers found ourselves scrambling for work as the economy shifted beneath our feet.

Looking back, I’m incredibly grateful that life took that detour. Beyond making lifelong friends and sporting an enviable tan, I grew with the company into a supervisory role. I hired more than 200 seasonal employees each summer, occasionally had to let people go, and learned invaluable lessons about leadership, coaching, and helping people grow. Those experiences shaped me in ways I never could have imagined, and I still rely on those skills every day as an emergency physician. I’m especially glad I ignored the well-meaning people who insisted I needed a “traditional” internship. Lifeguarding wasn’t a backup plan—it became a foundation for the physician and leader I am today.

Six hours of swimming, climbing stairs, and racing down slides left our entire crew completely exhausted. Before leaving, we each ordered a gofrula—a freshly made waffle topped with your choice of chocolate, caramel, jam, whipped cream, or white chocolate. We may have indulged just a little by choosing two toppings each. Mine? White chocolate and caramel.

Now we’re winding our way back to Peñíscola, with three of the six passengers already fast asleep before we’ve even reached the highway. It feels like the perfect ending to another unforgettable day in Spain.

~Steph