One of the things I’ve loved most about our time in Autol is that every day has introduced us to another tradition that has quietly shaped life here for generations. Today, that tradition was mushrooms.

This morning, a friend of Lidia’s family welcomed us to his mushroom farm for an intimate tour. Like Lidia’s dad, he specializes in growing portobello mushrooms, while many other local farmers cultivate several different varieties. Walking through the cool, earthy growing rooms was fascinating. There is so much more science, patience, and craftsmanship behind mushroom farming than I ever realized.

He explained how the industry has changed over the past couple of decades. Twenty years ago, mushroom farming was a boutique business, with customers willing to pay a premium for high-quality, locally grown mushrooms. As Spain has faced more difficult economic times, demand has softened and margins have become much tighter. It would be easy to cut corners in pursuit of lower costs, but that’s not the path many of these family farmers have chosen.

Like so many traditions we’ve seen here in La Rioja, they continue to do things the way they’ve always believed they should be done—using organic, environmentally friendly practices and refusing to sacrifice quality simply to make a little more money. There was something deeply admirable about that quiet commitment to craftsmanship over convenience.

After our tour, we headed to Lidia’s family’s casilla, a countryside retreat much like the one where we’re staying. These little houses aren’t extravagant, but that’s precisely the point. They exist as places to gather—to cook, to eat, to swim, to share a bottle of wine, and to spend unhurried hours with family and friends. It’s a lifestyle centered around people rather than schedules.

The kids immediately claimed the pool, splashing and laughing while the adults settled into long conversations around the outdoor table. We sampled both red and white Rioja wines, along with a regional liqueur unique to this area. The kids, meanwhile, were perfectly content with ice cream cones in hand and another afternoon in the water.

Back at our house that evening, Amir and Lidia transformed the mushrooms we had picked just hours earlier into dinner. Fresh portobello mushrooms sautéed simply, crusty bread from the neighborhood supermarket, fresh blueberries, and good company made for one of the most satisfying meals of the trip. Nothing was fancy, yet everything tasted exceptional because it was fresh, local, and shared together.

It wasn’t a day packed with famous landmarks or busy sightseeing. There were no long drives or crowded attractions. Instead, today reminded me that some of the richest travel experiences come from simply living alongside the people who call a place home.

It was slow. It was simple. And, perhaps because of that, it was exactly the day I didn’t know I needed.

~Steph